Sue Mazda?

[PhreakV]

what's the worst that can happen if my heads are scratched?

lowered uneven compression. it should only end up being 2-3% for the most part which is okay and within tolerances. ask them if they did a compression check and if they didn't try to convince them to...

 

[msubullyfan]

After two occurrences, I had them check the compression. High to low only had about a 2% difference, and the affected cylinder wasn't the lowest (2nd lowest).

 

[DiS]

Dealers (or rather Mazda N/A) won't approve replacing everything just because they "should". They will replace only what's necessary to repair the problem.

Id' only worry about it if the problem resurrects itself agian.

exactly. The only reason why I had my head replaced along with other s***, is because head walls were scratched as I lost 5 screws on the butterflies.

 

[323CiP5]

exactly. The only reason why I had my head replaced along with other s***, is because head walls were scratched as I lost 5 screws on the butterflies.

did you lose all 5 at the same time? or did they come off over time?

 

[DiS]

did you lose all 5 at the same time? or did they come off over time?

there was about 2-3 weeks between 1st 3 screws....and when last two fell out and made my car s*** bricks, I said "**** YOU OPEN ROAD MAZDA" dealership, as they were playing ******* s*** games with me, I went to my original dealer where bought my car and they didnt find s*** until 2 weeks later when I came in with a check engine light on and they figured out what Ive been telling Mazda USA for like 3 months!

 

[Mazdamia]

Has anyone had to pay out-of pocket for this or any incidentals (car rental, missed work, etc)?

 

[Mazdamia]

UPDATE:

Mazda says they will "help" with the cost of the part. So they say it will be $427.51 to replace the Manifold. That is the only work they plan on doing. I would need to get my car there and that would cost about $120. So...

Me fixing: $430 for parts.

Mazda fixing: $550 total.

Thanks Mazda, you're the Greatest! (notcool)

 

[DiS]

dude is your car still under warranty?!?!!?!? how many miles you got on your car?
IF SO DO NOT ******* PAY THEM A DIME!!!!
call MAzda USA and tell them the problem. IF your car still has warranty, DEALER HAS TO COVER WHOLE COST!!! Definetly call MAZDA USA 1-800-222-5500

 

[Mazdamia]

No warranty sir. 70000 miles.

 

[DiS]

No warranty sir. 70000 miles.

blah that sux ass, although if you will get it done right now and partially pay for it, and Mazda will come out with a recall, you will be eligible to get your money back.

 

[brittania81k]

Joining the issue

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111227
Above is my post(s) regarding this mess. Anyone think I have the same thing? I haven't been able to make it happen recently...maybe chucked a screw out? (dunno) I took it to the dealer and they couldn't make it happen either. My original call to the dealer was meant with the suggestion of bad gas. Should I take off the first part of the exhaust to check or what???? Help please!

 

[323CiP5]

if you could get to your cat and look inside for two little screws, then you have the same problem as the rest of us above and should take your car to the dealer. mind you the screws probably wont look like screws.

 

[fLyPiNoY7]

for all those trying to figure out where theyre car was built:
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/models.html

u can decifer the vin here...although for some odd reason, it says that my p5 was built in 1999-2000...otherwise, it shows how to read the vin...my p5 was built in hofu and im at 18k right now...luckily, no vics issues...yet...but there has been some weird knock noise that ive been having...

 

[msubullyfan]

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111227
Above is my post(s) regarding this mess. Anyone think I have the same thing? I haven't been able to make it happen recently...maybe chucked a screw out? (dunno) I took it to the dealer and they couldn't make it happen either. My original call to the dealer was meant with the suggestion of bad gas. Should I take off the first part of the exhaust to check or what???? Help please!

See my post in this thread... it describes what the noise sounds like in detail (others have agreed that this is a good description). The screw beating around in the cylinder makes a HORRIBLE racket that's unmistakable. However, if it's just a loose VTCS or VICS butterfly rattling around, I suppose it could make the noise you're referring to.

In a lot of cases, the screw hits the spark plug, and your car will throw a CEL.

There isn't a really easy check for this. If your screw was beating around on top of the piston, there will be some evidence. Ask your dealer to pull your plugs and borescope the cylinders to look for evidence of scratching or pitting on the cylinder walls or the piston.

(BTW -- I'm pretty sure I've seen your P5... I just moved to MS from Baton Rouge about 6 months ago. Used to work around the ExxonMobil refinery and I remember seeing a midnight blue P5 in north BR a lot)

 

[DiS]

See my post in this thread... it describes what the noise sounds like in detail (others have agreed that this is a good description). The screw beating around in the cylinder makes a HORRIBLE racket that's unmistakable. However, if it's just a loose VTCS or VICS butterfly rattling around, I suppose it could make the noise you're referring to.

In a lot of cases, the screw hits the spark plug, and your car will throw a CEL.

There isn't a really easy check for this. If your screw was beating around on top of the piston, there will be some evidence. Ask your dealer to pull your plugs and borescope the cylinders to look for evidence of scratching or pitting on the cylinder walls or the piston.

well said. Yea once you will hear a really loud clunking which will be RPM deppendant, then you WILL know that you got a that small bolt from ViCS banging around in the combustion chamber and ******* up your head walls.

As far as the spark plugs issue....yea true to that too.....I had 2 of my plugs ****** up because of that s***. My plug gap on those two plugs (cyl. 1 and cyl. 3) was .19 which is completely tiny. and yea I was throwing a P0300, P0301 and P0303, which are multiple cylnder misfire, cyl. 1 misfire and cyl. 3 misfire.

 

[brittania81k]

(BTW -- I'm pretty sure I've seen your P5... I just moved to MS from Baton Rouge about 6 months ago. Used to work around the ExxonMobil refinery and I remember seeing a midnight blue P5 in north BR a lot)

I was most likely me since A) I live north of BR and B) there is only one other midnight blue P5 in the area that I know of.....clear taillights kinda give my away, and now my wheels too, but I only got them 2 months ago. Well, that and the stickers on my car back windows.

Back on topic, the more people talk about this, the more sure I am that this most likely isn't my problem...... my noise is VERY faint. It ONLY happens when the car is moving. So, I have some other ideas what it could, but I am keeping an eye on it. (yupnope)

 

[Mazdamia]

It looks like I will need to get the dealer to fix this. The original part quote of $412 was not the right part. The real part cost is 719.85 plus tax. (MZFS7N-13-100E).

So I am going to get it fixed at the dealership for 427.51 (The discounted price). Hopefully this price includes tax and they don't try to charge me for anything else. I'll update with the final price once I have it.

 

[msubullyfan]

Back on topic, the more people talk about this, the more sure I am that this most likely isn't my problem...... my noise is VERY faint. It ONLY happens when the car is moving. So, I have some other ideas what it could, but I am keeping an eye on it. (yupnope)

Hmmm... valve chatter, maybe? Is it more pronounced at high rpm?

 

[brittania81k]

Hmmm... valve chatter, maybe? Is it more pronounced at high rpm?

Actually, it only seems to occur at higher rpms. It's very faint and sounds lke someone shaking an aluminum can with pop tabs in it. The noise is erratic, seems not to be related to the rythm of the engine. It happens when you accelerate hard, you don't have to floor it, but you have to be on it pretty good. It's faint the whole time it does it. It occurs between about 3000-5500 rpm, and it's most noticeable kinda on the end of a hard acceleration, when the rpms drop after a shift or if you let off a little. It won't do it when the car is not moving, and it doesn't do it all of the time, and it doesn't affect performance at all. I've never noticed it when autocrossing, but that's probably because I'm not really paying attention to it then either. I've been told it could be the gas, a heat shield, the exhaust, or any of those thing rattling due to the engine shifting on the stock mounts due to loads under hard acceleration. (dunno)At this point, I am just keeping an "ear" on it. The dealer has been told and it's on record there, in case something ever goes really wrong or it gets louder. Who knows?

 

[nate0123]

sounds like knocking from cheap fuel