STS2 Miata Build Part Deux - 2008
- Thread starter aMaff
- Start date
Just noticed this. Damn, I wish the MS6 would've been in HS. That would've been sweet. But, no, it was my '99 Civic Si.
The MS6, along with almost every other MazdaSpeed model, goes in DS...and I'm sure you could find a wider tire than that. What do RX-8s run? Same size wheel(18x7).
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The RX-8 has 18x8 wheels and runs Kumho V710's in 245/35ZR18 currently on special at tirerack for $224 each. Some also run Hoosier in that same size ($274 each) or 285/30/18 hoosiers ($300 each)
Damn. You're right. I'm sure that 245 could find its way onto an 18x7.
So, within the last couple of days, almost all of the rest of my spending for the offseason has been done:
- ALL suspension bushings - replacing w/ FM poly (not the offset ones)
- Front end rod ends, ball joints, and dust boots
- Header blanket
- Front brakes (still need to buy the rears)
- Spring perches for 2.25" springs
- Springs
- NB rear shock tops (doing this the cheap / easy way... like $30 per when it's all said and done)
- reenforcement for the front sway mounts
- dynomax muffler (going to try something different, HIW style y0!)
Good thing I get paid on friday LOL
EDIT: Anyone know where to get a 2.25" exhaust turn-down? The only ones summit carries are like $30. Screw that for a piece of steel.
- ALL suspension bushings - replacing w/ FM poly (not the offset ones)
- Front end rod ends, ball joints, and dust boots
- Header blanket
- Front brakes (still need to buy the rears)
- Spring perches for 2.25" springs
- Springs
- NB rear shock tops (doing this the cheap / easy way... like $30 per when it's all said and done)
- reenforcement for the front sway mounts
- dynomax muffler (going to try something different, HIW style y0!)
Good thing I get paid on friday LOL
EDIT: Anyone know where to get a 2.25" exhaust turn-down? The only ones summit carries are like $30. Screw that for a piece of steel.
yeah, it came off to do the tranny. I'm going to hang on to it, just trying something else. And a turndown because it's going to exit underneath the car still.
So, tonight, got the clutch actuator moved to the new tranny, the throwout bearing replaced, engine rear main replaced and bolted up the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Also did a little cleanup on the engine and shimmed the front sway bar mounts. The trans should be on in the next day or 2
Very exciiiiite!
So, tonight, got the clutch actuator moved to the new tranny, the throwout bearing replaced, engine rear main replaced and bolted up the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Also did a little cleanup on the engine and shimmed the front sway bar mounts. The trans should be on in the next day or 2
Very exciiiiite!
You might be able to get a simple turn down at an exhaust/MUFFler shop.
I like Dynomax, its what I used when I made mine for the MR-S.
So are you changing spring rates?
Are you doing the NB top hats for more static camber? We are doing that for the Spec this off-season also.
I like Dynomax, its what I used when I made mine for the MR-S.
So are you changing spring rates?
Are you doing the NB top hats for more static camber? We are doing that for the Spec this off-season also.
Actually doing it for the added rear shock travel. I didn't realize you could get more static camber out of it w/ the NB tops. I'll need to beg / borrow / steal a pyrometer for an early test and tune and see how my alignment's working out and go from there.
EDIT: Fancy seeing you here! How've you been? I hope both Mrs. and Ms. Walter are doing well
EDIT #2: Side note: just found out today that the NB shock tops and retaining washers are on backorder for mazda motorsports
EDIT: Fancy seeing you here! How've you been? I hope both Mrs. and Ms. Walter are doing well
EDIT #2: Side note: just found out today that the NB shock tops and retaining washers are on backorder for mazda motorsports
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tonight I was flying solo so I started on a couple of minor things like the blocks and bolts reenforcement. Well...problem is that you can't get the long bolt for the upper control arm out with that stuff in the way. The bolt actually has to be fed THROUGH the sway bar mounts, and there's literally 2mm of clearance to get that son of a b**** out of there. I had to back out the stock bolts for the sway bar bracket for it to fit through. It's like an 18" bolt (no, really...probably more) and you only have about 5 inches total to actually work with to get it out combined on both sides of the bolt. It's a sack of crap. I guess I won't be doing the reenforcements until I get the new bushings done.
Trans should be back in tomorrow night. ooooooh yeaaaaaah. I've still got 1/2 of the suspension off of the car right now. The current plan is to get the front end squared away and put back together, then work on the rear.
Also: put oil in the engine now that I got a new, functional crush washer (or whatever the hell you call it) for the oil plug. The old 1 was a little drippy.
Trans should be back in tomorrow night. ooooooh yeaaaaaah. I've still got 1/2 of the suspension off of the car right now. The current plan is to get the front end squared away and put back together, then work on the rear.
Also: put oil in the engine now that I got a new, functional crush washer (or whatever the hell you call it) for the oil plug. The old 1 was a little drippy.
Was there a groove in the crankshaft where the old seal was? I rebuilt a toyota truck engine a few years back, and put a new rear seal in. The crank journal that the seal rode on had a small groove worn in it at the point of seal contact. The original seal never leaked.
The crank journals were all polished as part of the rebuild, but the groove wasn't ground out or filled. The new seal never stopped leaking, even after it was replaced (again, with the requisite second transmission drop).
Who knows what I could have done wrong, or in what way I might have been the cause. In any case, I'd keep an eye on it.
Ben
The crank journals were all polished as part of the rebuild, but the groove wasn't ground out or filled. The new seal never stopped leaking, even after it was replaced (again, with the requisite second transmission drop).
Who knows what I could have done wrong, or in what way I might have been the cause. In any case, I'd keep an eye on it.
Ben
My ladies are doing well, thanks for asking.
That long bolt for the upper control arm can be a pita. It can only come out towards the front of the car. Check to make sure that the bolt is not bent. We have a whole stack of those stupid things.
The the NB mounts can gain you a little more static camber if you keep your spring perches where they are, effectively lowering the car just a wee bit more. But if you are going to try and maintain the same ride height and just gain more travel, then that's what they will do, not much though.
excellent
it was straight, just a b**** to get out. I can't believe people actually take that thing out to do shocks / springs. All you need is a heavy dude to step on the brake caliper and you can pull the whole assembly out LOL. Long bolt method my @$$. Too bad I've gotta pull 'em for the bushings.
any is better on a car w/ this little travel in the rear. They're supposed to be good for 1/2 to 3/4" more travel
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YES! OH GOD YES! MUHUHUHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA SHE'S ALIIIIIIIIIIIIIVE!
Got the drivetrain back together, didn't forget to plug anything back in, fired up on the first shot. New tranny shifts nicely so far. It's still on jackstands as the suspension is in pieces, and the wheels are off, so it was kind of weird being able to go from 0 up to whatever in 5th gear with no lag LOL
That was at about 10:15... and there was no cat or exhaust, just a header LOL. I really hope I didn't piss the neighbors off. I only ran it for a minute or less, just to make sure it fired (ie: I didn't forget to re-connect something), and that all the mechanicals still seemed to be in good order (starter properly engaged, etc)
Got the drivetrain back together, didn't forget to plug anything back in, fired up on the first shot. New tranny shifts nicely so far. It's still on jackstands as the suspension is in pieces, and the wheels are off, so it was kind of weird being able to go from 0 up to whatever in 5th gear with no lag LOL
That was at about 10:15... and there was no cat or exhaust, just a header LOL. I really hope I didn't piss the neighbors off. I only ran it for a minute or less, just to make sure it fired (ie: I didn't forget to re-connect something), and that all the mechanicals still seemed to be in good order (starter properly engaged, etc)
excellent
All you need is a heavy dude to step on the brake caliper and you can pull the whole assembly out LOL.
My feelings are hurt.
Congrats to us on getting Dory swimming again (sort of)
veeeery exciiiite!
lol don't be like that <3
I'm thinking tomorrow night will be replacing the fuel filter and getting the injectors off to send off to witchhunter performance (www.witchhunter.com) to get them cleaned, serviced, and flowtested / blueprinted. If anyone else has any ideas on what else can cause the piss poor throttle tip in, please speak up now. The plug wires are new. I'm probably going to pick up a spark tester this weekend to test them.
I should also be able to get started on replacing all the old busted worn out junk on the front end. Though, I still need to order another steering rack boot from advance (quick / easy / works). I'm also thinking about starting to press out the bushings in preparation to put in the new ones. We'll have to see just how ambitious I am
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