SkyActiv Oil Analysis Thread

Here is my test results at 11,000 miles and 5,500 miles on synthetic oil.

Like others, over 2% fuel dilution in the sample. Interesting and to be watched the elevated silica in the sample. :unsure:

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For a second oil change on new car the Sil is pretty normal. I wouldnt call it elevated.
Mine was higher on the 2nd uoa since new.

Fuel dil is something these engines are prone to. It even gets worse the older the car gets ".
Not much you can do beside drive and regular good oil changes.
 
Thankyou for confirming silica is normal. It must be from the casting process. I was curious if there was any copper or other metals from going WOT about 20 times during the tuning process. The tuner requires 2 WOT per log.

These cars are great for merging and passing combined with good FE. Not a hot rod, so not much of a thrill to go WOT. That is probably a good thing! 🤣

I'll test again at 20,000 miles.
 
Interesting results.

Remember, as they note in the reports, its the TRENDS over time that tell a more complete story rather than one test result.
 
Interesting results.

Remember, as they note in the reports, its the TRENDS over time that tell a more complete story rather than one test result.
But for right now, it tells me where my oil is at. The Viscosity drop to 20W doesn't seem to concern them, but it does me. I'll keep my OCIs at 5K.
 
I can't remember but with your mods did you modify the air box and filter? what oil are you using.
Yes I added a silicon elbow in the air filter box with a backflow damper. This acts like a CAI and opens when the the air filter box runs out of capacity for the turbo. Without the damper, it lost low end torque and FE.

I have changed out the ribbed elbow exiting the air filter box for a smooth bore silicon with an aluminum turning vane.

I'm using a turbo air filter. Makes me want to change out the air filter for another brand. I'll have to look up what brand is in there. OR it could be my block/heads castings were not completely void of sand from the foundry.

Valvoline syn 5w30 oil

I just caved in and bought an OEM air filter after spending too much time reviewing air filters. From what I read the aftermarket plays games on filter media filtration. Further, some folks complain about the seals leaking. So what the heck, I'll use OEM air filters.

I'll watch the Filter Minder I installed on the top of the air filter box. As soon as it moves I'll replace the filter element. No guess work on if it is dirty this way....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
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I'm using a turbo air filter. Makes me want to change out the air filter for another brand. I'll have to look up what brand is in there. OR it could be my block/heads castings were not completely void of sand from the foundry.
It could be. The explanation I heard was assembly lube.
 
The Oem air filter is as good as it gets. I tried to find who manufactures it but Mazda is pretty good at hiding that info in comparison to the European brands who openly keep the manufacturer name on most parts.

p.s when i had my timing chain cover and oil pan re-sealed by the dealer I got lots of Si after. I changed the oil shortly after as they did not.
I change oil at 500-800 on any new car and Sil is around 40-60. After 2-3 oil changes it drops to base levels 10-12.
 
But for right now, it tells me where my oil is at. The Viscosity drop to 20W doesn't seem to concern them, but it does me. I'll keep my OCIs at 5K.
If you want try the Amsoil Extended XL (next one after the OE ). Viscosity drop is because of the fuel unfortunately but that is not that much problem at 5k changes. The engine didnt mind..

I have seen a Turbo 2022 for sale with around 100k miles. Oil changes every 5k by the dealer. These engines are good if treated correctly.
 
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Well that's a new one on me! Silica in the assembly lube....wow. I'm glad I had the oil sampled, it got me to get off my checkbook and buy a premium OEM air filter...

AI says EPauto manufactures air filters for Mazda. I couldn't find an air filter for a turbo....

I'm curious, other than the cylinder heads that have cracked, these engines run several hundred thousand miles or longer? They all have DPIs. The injectors have been diluting the oil over +200,00 miles for many years.

I'm about to take oil dilution off my stuff to keep me awake at night list. :ROFLMAO:
 
Silicon, not silica.

Yeah the only thing I see as just a general fault of the motor are carbon deposits, which are common to all direct-injected motors (or almost all motors in production cars today). I haven't really seen anything like "these engines are all known to do X or Y at some point". Normally those kinds of trends emerge online. A dealership mechanic who's been around a while would know better, though.
 
Well that's a new one on me! Silica in the assembly lube....wow. I'm glad I had the oil sampled, it got me to get off my checkbook and buy a premium OEM air filter...

AI says EPauto manufactures air filters for Mazda. I couldn't find an air filter for a turbo....

I'm curious, other than the cylinder heads that have cracked, these engines run several hundred thousand miles or longer? They all have DPIs. The injectors have been diluting the oil over +200,00 miles for many years.

I'm about to take oil dilution off my stuff to keep me awake at night list. :ROFLMAO:
The Motor Oil Geek (Lake Speed Jr) describes the SILICON in early oil changes as due to the sealants used when the engine is built. Makes complete sense. His oil analysis shows it drops down quite fast over time and oil changes.

I have done one oil/filter change already on our new (at end of August 2024) CX5 2.5 NA at around 4000km (2500 miles) and will do another at 10,000Km (6200m).

Then it will go to the dealer (with me supplying the same oil I have used and will continue to use) for them to do the first routine service at the recommended 15,000km interval.

Thereafter I will do a change midway between dealer services so it will get fresh oil and filter at every 7500kms (4600m).

Like many, I think that these 15,000km (~10,000m) intervals are less than desirable for a long happy engine life. For me, about $80 and half an hour for an interim change is good insurance. Been doing that for decades now on every car I have owned. Whether that have had 10,000 or 15,000km recommended intervals.

On one such service on my previous CX5 I found the oil drain plug just finger tight and dripping…. How it didnt fall out a few weeks earlier when my son and I did a 2500km round trip to Bathurst for the motor racing is a miracle. So its a also good check on the dealers previous work. One moment of distraction for the tech is all it takes…..
 
I am learning a lot about oil and its applications from Mr Speed Jr. I like the evidence based approach and science he applies. Facts, not opinions.

Just on this topic of viscosity…..

Take a look at the video linked below.

Around the 3:45 minute mark he is talking about test results comparing Mobil 1 5W-30 with a custom 0W-12 oil. Have a listen.

He says, not quite word for word but close enough:

“Even at a 150 hour durability test, and at 150C temperatures…. The 0W-12 actually protected every bit as good, if not better than the 5W-30.”

“Dont be afraid of the viscosity index, just because its thinner sometimes the additive package can do a better job even though its thinner….”


Now for an opinion - having listened to him - it seems to me that in this era of full synthetic oils, a high quality 0W-20 with a good additive pack will protect just as good as a similar high quality 5W-30, even in high temperatures, but the 0W-20 has the advantage of better fuel economy.

Its becoming obvious to me that a well designed additive package (designed for the particular application) is far more important than viscosity rating.
 
The Motor Oil Geek (Lake Speed Jr) describes the SILICON in early oil changes as due to the sealants used when the engine is built. Makes complete sense. His oil analysis shows it drops down quite fast over time and oil changes.

I have done one oil/filter change already on our new (at end of August 2024) CX5 2.5 NA at around 4000km (2500 miles) and will do another at 10,000Km (6200m).

Then it will go to the dealer (with me supplying the same oil I have used and will continue to use) for them to do the first routine service at the recommended 15,000km interval.

Thereafter I will do a change midway between dealer services so it will get fresh oil and filter at every 7500kms (4600m).

Like many, I think that these 15,000km (~10,000m) intervals are less than desirable for a long happy engine life. For me, about $80 and half an hour for an interim change is good insurance. Been doing that for decades now on every car I have owned. Whether that have had 10,000 or 15,000km recommended intervals.

On one such service on my previous CX5 I found the oil drain plug just finger tight and dripping…. How it didnt fall out a few weeks earlier when my son and I did a 2500km round trip to Bathurst for the motor racing is a miracle. So its a also good check on the dealers previous work. One moment of distraction for the tech is all it takes…..
I'd never go past 5,000 mile for an OCI if going the distance with your car (over 100k miles). I have gone to 7,500. but that's even too far IMO. Like the old saying "oil is cheap compared to engine work" .
These guys have some pretty good stuff:


and this in particular:

 
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Fuel dil is something these engines are prone to. It even gets worse the older the car gets ".
Not much you can do beside drive and regular good oil changes.
I've decided to use my oil pan heater a couple of times a month, maybe preheating the oil before a decent drive would help.
 
if you can preheat the coolant too that would be best but not sure how. Engine runs rich till certain coolant temp not just oil. Or keep the car garaged if possible.
 
I am learning a lot about oil and its applications from Mr Speed Jr. I like the evidence based approach and science he applies. Facts, not opinions.

Just on this topic of viscosity…..

Take a look at the video linked below.

Around the 3:45 minute mark he is talking about test results comparing Mobil 1 5W-30 with a custom 0W-12 oil. Have a listen.

He says, not quite word for word but close enough:

“Even at a 150 hour durability test, and at 150C temperatures…. The 0W-12 actually protected every bit as good, if not better than the 5W-30.”

“Dont be afraid of the viscosity index, just because its thinner sometimes the additive package can do a better job even though its thinner….”


Now for an opinion - having listened to him - it seems to me that in this era of full synthetic oils, a high quality 0W-20 with a good additive pack will protect just as good as a similar high quality 5W-30, even in high temperatures, but the 0W-20 has the advantage of better fuel economy.

Its becoming obvious to me that a well designed additive package (designed for the particular application) is far more important than viscosity rating.
there is a reason why the good oils cost more.
Bmw run 0w20 (with specific requirements) in all their engines which are turbo nowadays. With the hybrid mass adoption the oil requirements also change and they go lower.
 
I'd never go past 5,000 mile for an OCI if going the distance with your car (over 100k miles). I have gone to 7,500. but that's even too far IMO. Like the old saying "oil is cheap compared to engine work" .
These guys have some pretty good stuff:


and this in particular:

Mr Speed Jr says the same thing. Shorter intervals = better.

I had seen those videos before and on the sludge issue, they had speculated that the wrong spec engine oil may have been used in the past.

In light/medium diesel engines running dpf’s it is particularly important to run a low/medium SAPS rated oil and sludging like in the video is one of the side effects if you dont.
 

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