But for right now, it tells me where my oil is at. The Viscosity drop to 20W doesn't seem to concern them, but it does me. I'll keep my OCIs at 5K.Interesting results.
Remember, as they note in the reports, its the TRENDS over time that tell a more complete story rather than one test result.
I can't remember but with your mods did you modify the air box and filter? what oil are you using.Here is my test results at 11,000 miles and 5,500 miles on synthetic oil.
Like others, over 2% fuel dilution in the sample. Interesting and to be watched the elevated silica in the sample.
View attachment 334836
Yes I added a silicon elbow in the air filter box with a backflow damper. This acts like a CAI and opens when the the air filter box runs out of capacity for the turbo. Without the damper, it lost low end torque and FE.I can't remember but with your mods did you modify the air box and filter? what oil are you using.
It could be. The explanation I heard was assembly lube.I'm using a turbo air filter. Makes me want to change out the air filter for another brand. I'll have to look up what brand is in there. OR it could be my block/heads castings were not completely void of sand from the foundry.
If you want try the Amsoil Extended XL (next one after the OE ). Viscosity drop is because of the fuel unfortunately but that is not that much problem at 5k changes. The engine didnt mind..But for right now, it tells me where my oil is at. The Viscosity drop to 20W doesn't seem to concern them, but it does me. I'll keep my OCIs at 5K.
The Motor Oil Geek (Lake Speed Jr) describes the SILICON in early oil changes as due to the sealants used when the engine is built. Makes complete sense. His oil analysis shows it drops down quite fast over time and oil changes.Well that's a new one on me! Silica in the assembly lube....wow. I'm glad I had the oil sampled, it got me to get off my checkbook and buy a premium OEM air filter...
AI says EPauto manufactures air filters for Mazda. I couldn't find an air filter for a turbo....
I'm curious, other than the cylinder heads that have cracked, these engines run several hundred thousand miles or longer? They all have DPIs. The injectors have been diluting the oil over +200,00 miles for many years.
I'm about to take oil dilution off my stuff to keep me awake at night list.![]()
I'd never go past 5,000 mile for an OCI if going the distance with your car (over 100k miles). I have gone to 7,500. but that's even too far IMO. Like the old saying "oil is cheap compared to engine work" .The Motor Oil Geek (Lake Speed Jr) describes the SILICON in early oil changes as due to the sealants used when the engine is built. Makes complete sense. His oil analysis shows it drops down quite fast over time and oil changes.
I have done one oil/filter change already on our new (at end of August 2024) CX5 2.5 NA at around 4000km (2500 miles) and will do another at 10,000Km (6200m).
Then it will go to the dealer (with me supplying the same oil I have used and will continue to use) for them to do the first routine service at the recommended 15,000km interval.
Thereafter I will do a change midway between dealer services so it will get fresh oil and filter at every 7500kms (4600m).
Like many, I think that these 15,000km (~10,000m) intervals are less than desirable for a long happy engine life. For me, about $80 and half an hour for an interim change is good insurance. Been doing that for decades now on every car I have owned. Whether that have had 10,000 or 15,000km recommended intervals.
On one such service on my previous CX5 I found the oil drain plug just finger tight and dripping…. How it didnt fall out a few weeks earlier when my son and I did a 2500km round trip to Bathurst for the motor racing is a miracle. So its a also good check on the dealers previous work. One moment of distraction for the tech is all it takes…..
I've decided to use my oil pan heater a couple of times a month, maybe preheating the oil before a decent drive would help.Fuel dil is something these engines are prone to. It even gets worse the older the car gets ".
Not much you can do beside drive and regular good oil changes.
there is a reason why the good oils cost more.I am learning a lot about oil and its applications from Mr Speed Jr. I like the evidence based approach and science he applies. Facts, not opinions.
Just on this topic of viscosity…..
Take a look at the video linked below.
Around the 3:45 minute mark he is talking about test results comparing Mobil 1 5W-30 with a custom 0W-12 oil. Have a listen.
He says, not quite word for word but close enough:
“Even at a 150 hour durability test, and at 150C temperatures…. The 0W-12 actually protected every bit as good, if not better than the 5W-30.”
“Dont be afraid of the viscosity index, just because its thinner sometimes the additive package can do a better job even though its thinner….”
Now for an opinion - having listened to him - it seems to me that in this era of full synthetic oils, a high quality 0W-20 with a good additive pack will protect just as good as a similar high quality 5W-30, even in high temperatures, but the 0W-20 has the advantage of better fuel economy.
Its becoming obvious to me that a well designed additive package (designed for the particular application) is far more important than viscosity rating.
Mr Speed Jr says the same thing. Shorter intervals = better.I'd never go past 5,000 mile for an OCI if going the distance with your car (over 100k miles). I have gone to 7,500. but that's even too far IMO. Like the old saying "oil is cheap compared to engine work" .
These guys have some pretty good stuff:
and this in particular: