what filter do you use?glitter is normal in a new engine here was mine..I have been changing oil in new cars since 1977 and first oil change and often second oil change especially if the first one was changed early which I have always done has glitter. if you want a shocker cut open the oil filter....
that is the from the first oil change and would be around 1000-1500 miles I can't remember but I always change early on the first one. my wife has the car so I can't look. I use the oem filterswhat filter do you use?
I have never seen glitter in mine and I have few cx5s on which I change the oil from new. The only diff is I am in dry warm climate, pretty aggressive with oil change frequency (less than 5k and oem filters and Mazda Moly and Amsoil oils) , first oil changes less than 1000 miles and change engine filter (oem) every year if that matters.
Since we're on the subject of oil consumption:
I owned a 2004 Acura RSX Type S. These weren't particularly known for burning oil...some did but most didn't. I followed the 10k "recommended" schedule up until my oil light came on around 55k. The engine took maybe 4 qts and I had burned through enough of that within 10k to trigger the light. After that I started monitoring usage. Ultimately it was burning a quart every 2500 miles...not terrible but not great. It also developed a timing chain tensioner slap (pretty common on those engines) that may or may not have been encouraged by long OCIs.
I've had my 2015 CX5 GT for almost 10 years now. Coming up on 100k miles and I've changed the oil every 5k and it consumes about 1/2 qt every 5k and that's been consistent at least for the past 8 years.
Anyway, I wonder if these 10k OCIs factories recommend are just too long? Also, most of us probably need to maintain our cars using the manual's "extreme" schedule. Short trips and city driving is how I mainly drive and those repeated shut downs and start ups can't be great on an engine.
I'll get my oil analyzed on the next oil change at about 11k mi to compare our turbo to N7Turbo's report.
Oil Analyzers via the Amsoil kit.to be an apples to apples you need to use the same oil analyzer he used
I might send it to two placesOil Analyzers via the Amsoil kit.
excellent plan.I use Eurofins to test oil. I bought 10 tests kits.
I'll look into Amsoil test kit for direct comparison and sent off a sample to Eurofin. Eurofin is geared towards testing expensive machinery like power plant turbines. I trust there reports over consumer companies.
Are they set up to analyze the common wear metals, fuel dilution, and oil additives seen in today's automotive engines?I use Eurofins to test oil. I bought 10 tests kits.
I'll look into Amsoil test kit for direct comparison and sent off a sample to Eurofin. Eurofin is geared towards testing expensive machinery like power plant turbines. I trust there reports over consumer companies.
I just looked at their website and did not see anything to show automotive oil testing.Are they set up to analyze the common wear metals, fuel dilution, and oil additives seen in today's automotive engines?
We followed HSS SE directions. The Cummins holds 3 gallons of oil. 1 quart of SE didn'tt seem like alot. HSS said to use 2 quarts on the 1st treatment the 1 quart on the 2nd. BUT the oil report confirms 10k was too long. The Base Number was below 3. Eurofin tagged this value on the report.Usually oil change is recommended earlier than 10k if additives are added in it.
Looks similar to mine.Doubt there's a way to curtail the oil dilution but if anyone knows of a remedy please share. Maybe just but the highest viscosity 5w-30 one can find if the Castrol Edge sheers off quickly.
I would attempt to get the engine up to operating temp every trip and not idle the engine any more than required. No cold start warm up and such.New to the thread, great info here on the SkyActiv Turbos and non.
Here's an oil analysis for my 2019 Mazda 6 Signature. A little history...
1. Bought at just over 84k miles, one owner, mechanically pristine for the mileage and drove great.
2. Per Carfax, avg just over 10k miles per oil change (dealerships and various oil change places).
3. Last oil change before purchase was at Mazda dealership, claimed they use Mazda OEM 5w-30 semi-syn blend. From the oil analysis here, could be an Idemitsu product when comparing to VOAs online but can't nail down who makes it. Filter was not OEM, so who knows.
4. Since purchase (3k ish miles), driven 80% commute, 20% highway, some-what spirited (this car doesn't like over 100 mph on the highway IMO, definitely not German-like and mostly expected). Avg mpg just under 21. Oil was in the engine about 10 months, probably overdue for a change.
Everything looks great from a wear standpoint, no sky-high potassium levels or anything strange. Just fuel in the oil of course and lowered viscosity, same issue as some cases I've read about on this and other threads.
Changed oil 2 weeks ago with Castrol Edge Dexos Gen 3 5w-30, Thailand OEM filter (PY, not PE). From looking at other UOAs from 2.5Ts and some EcoBoosts, seems like this oil might reduce sheering a bit. Worth a try. I'll post another sample to Oil Analyzers at 3k mileage and post the report. Would prefer to change oil every 6k miles or twice a year if I can (I average 12k mileage a year).
Doubt there's a way to curtail the oil dilution but if anyone knows of a remedy please share. Maybe just but the highest viscosity 5w-30 one can find if the Castrol Edge sheers off quickly.
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There is a good oil dilution thread on Bob the Oil Guy forum. THIS form doesn't allow us to help you find it by posting a link....why? It's worth reading.