sick baby :(
- Thread starter MrsZR7
- Start date
People have used duct tape as a temporary fix. Also replacements are not that expensive $30.
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/17638-05220648.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=DN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=2002-2003+Mazda+Protege5+Air+Intake+Hose+Dorman+02-03+Mazda+Air+Intake+Hose&gclid=CInV7MDfz7QCFQyDnQodgSAAQA
https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)
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Well..... I know I'm going to have to do this twice, so what's the easiest method of taking the intake tube off? I'd like to at least temporarily fix this today, because who knows what the weather will be like this week. I don't have the best access to a garage at the moment, unfortunately.
Well, it looks like this temporary fix is becoming an all day affair. The two little hoses right below the purge solenoid valve are stuck. I finally got the electrical part off, but those hoses are all that stand between me for getting the intake tube off and taped up. Any tips? I'm scared to spray any lubricants on it for fear of damaging any other hoses.
Finally!! The intake tube is off and I've brought it inside to clean it, so I can bandaid fix it for now. Hopefully the weather will hold out for me so I can put the new one on when it comes in.
I got stuck for a little while with the nut on the front of that bracket, and the two hoses that connect under the purge solenoid valve. It all could've been removed if that nut wasn't stuck, so I went for the two little hoses. Spark plug wire pullers finally got that job done.
I've cleaned the tube well, and waiting for it to dry so I can "repair" it and put it back on the car.
I hope this all goes back together well.
I got stuck for a little while with the nut on the front of that bracket, and the two hoses that connect under the purge solenoid valve. It all could've been removed if that nut wasn't stuck, so I went for the two little hoses. Spark plug wire pullers finally got that job done.
I've cleaned the tube well, and waiting for it to dry so I can "repair" it and put it back on the car.
I hope this all goes back together well.
Trouble again...
I put the cold air intake on almost 2 weeks ago. Everything has been fine until yesterday morning. I'm not sure if it's because of the crappy weather or what the deal is, but it's started running like crap. It started acting almost like it did when it had the hole in he OEM intake, except with the occasional CEL flashing. So when I got home from work last night, I checked everything. it looked like the elbow of the cold air intake wasn't seated well against the throttle body. So I loosened it, and pushed it all the way on, and tightened all the fittings really well.
This morning, it ran great almost all the way to work, until I got stuck in traffic. Then the problem started again. Any ideas??
I put the cold air intake on almost 2 weeks ago. Everything has been fine until yesterday morning. I'm not sure if it's because of the crappy weather or what the deal is, but it's started running like crap. It started acting almost like it did when it had the hole in he OEM intake, except with the occasional CEL flashing. So when I got home from work last night, I checked everything. it looked like the elbow of the cold air intake wasn't seated well against the throttle body. So I loosened it, and pushed it all the way on, and tightened all the fittings really well.
This morning, it ran great almost all the way to work, until I got stuck in traffic. Then the problem started again. Any ideas??
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Did the elbow of the CAI rub against the brake master cylinder and get a hole in it? or is it rubber elbow? Do you have android fon? If so you can get a bluetooth elm327 obdii reader for 16.00 shipped and torque app for fon for 4.95 and read your own codes and much much more. By CEL flashing, do you mean it comes on solid and goes away or flashes?
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Really need to get codes. Flashing CEL never a good thing to keep driving with. Usually bad cat as result of misfiring but check to see what code is would be my advice.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Back to coils/wires/plugs then............
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
What about wires? And I guess it could be possible that the fuel pump could have issue or injector clogged enough for that to cause misfire but plugs/wires/coils would be the cheaper least hassle place to start.
^What he said,... plugs/wires and coils are the most likely cause of misfire and are relatively cheap.
Chasing down an engine misfire can be an expensive PITA.
Seafoam could go a long way toward helping if the fuel sytem is a little gummed up. It's cheap, easy and costs about ten bucks.
Chasing down an engine misfire can be an expensive PITA.
Seafoam could go a long way toward helping if the fuel sytem is a little gummed up. It's cheap, easy and costs about ten bucks.
Well I'm heading to O'Reilly to have them run the meter on it then go from there.
This is the one difference from the previous problem: it runs fine for long enough for it to get warmed up, then starts really acting up when I stop at a light or get stuck in traffic. Then it starts acting like an ass.
This is the one difference from the previous problem: it runs fine for long enough for it to get warmed up, then starts really acting up when I stop at a light or get stuck in traffic. Then it starts acting like an ass.
That is exactly how igidy's problem was. He replaced coils, wires, plugs then followed the FSM for everything they listed. We struggled for over two weeks talking back and forth through PM,s. He even had a scope hooked up to try and figure it out.
His car would only misfire when it was hot, not cold or even warm,.... only fully hot. He finally replaced his NEW coil with another new one and that fixed it.
Coils are relatively cheap, easy to install and almost impossible to diagnose,... they can easily test fine on the bench but not work on the car but only when they feel like screwing up.
Coils, wires and plugs could easily be considered regular maintenance and could quite possibly fix your problem, but coils can be bad right out of the box.
I bought Beck/Arnley and they are working fine for me.
His car would only misfire when it was hot, not cold or even warm,.... only fully hot. He finally replaced his NEW coil with another new one and that fixed it.
Coils are relatively cheap, easy to install and almost impossible to diagnose,... they can easily test fine on the bench but not work on the car but only when they feel like screwing up.
Coils, wires and plugs could easily be considered regular maintenance and could quite possibly fix your problem, but coils can be bad right out of the box.
I bought Beck/Arnley and they are working fine for me.
Well that is VERY promising then! I happen to still have my old coil packs that my dad advised me to keep, plus the new ones are likely still under warranty.
EDIT: the code reader says cylinder #1 misfire, and even better news...there's a lifetime warranty on the coil packs.
EDIT: the code reader says cylinder #1 misfire, and even better news...there's a lifetime warranty on the coil packs.
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Probably just the effects of that poorly engineered cold air intake you installed. Actually, calling it "engineered" is generous! ;-)
So that's the passenger side coil. Just swap it out and see what happens. If it fixes it, you'll have lots of leverage for a no hassle return.
Did you happen to get it from Autozone ??? They appear to sell bad coils.
Don't forget the seafoam,... but do the coil first to you know for sure what has fixed it.
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