Remove the front swaybar ?

Well it's hard to tell with all the dirt in those pics, but it is possible that your endlinks are binding on your strut tab or sway bar. They may be the nature of the part though. I was driving my car the other day and heard some clicking but it may have been the upper sturt mounts. When I get my new plates on I'll know for sure.

I'd take a pic of my set up for ya but I'm stuck in a hotel room in toronto for work until at least Sunday night. My car isn't with me so it would be next week at best.
 
I know the rod ends generate the noise. After taking the pictures last night,

I greased the rod ends on both sides (only the rod ends) and the noise stopped. It will stop for 2 or 3 days and come back again (sooner if it rains) (pissed)

I have decided to replace the endlinks with better quality units. I went to a couple of specialized bearing shops but they know nothing about automotive applications. I will send an email to the Grisdale guys and ask what they usually sell for racecars. There are a lot of options. Rod end size will also be an issue. Good quality rod ends vary from $15 to $150 per unit. NHBB make the best ones. QA1 specialize in car suspension parts and have a line of rod ends. There is also Aurora, FK, Alinabal. I'll see what the experts recommend. (Bakerprecision has a good online selection)

The AWR endlinks come with 3/8" x 24 (male size 6) rod ends.
I am tempted to go for 1/2" or 5/8" (size 8 and 10) because there is more choice and they are stronger. The radius rod size will also need to be increased.

Here is the list of items needed to build new endlinks:
2 x RH rod ends (teflon,kevlar or carbon lined)
2 x LH rod ends (teflon,kevlar or carbon lined)
2 x RH jam nuts
2 x LH jam nuts
2 x tie rod tubes also called radius rods (need to measure the size)
8 x rod end seals
8 x rod end spacers
4 x rod end studs + lock nuts
4 x reducing sleeves (if the rod end guide is larger then 3/8")

I will keep you informed of my final choice and the final results. :)
 
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