Radio / Speakers on CX-5 SPORT model

I should have wrapped the blockers with sponge like material, because they just hang there on two wires and they can hit other stuff there creating extra unwanted noise. I'm lucky, I don't have any noise, but better do it right from the beginning.
Be prepared to force the speakers in there, there are some plastic pieces in the way.
 
Thanks. Any shielding needed on the bass blockers I as I hear cheap ones can pick up interference? Let us know if u hear a difference with the infinities.

Big difference, the bass is now redirected back to my infinity door speakers and the dash infinities now handle the mid and highs, the soundstage is more balanced now. Instead of being totally up at my ears.

No idea about needing shielding, mine weren't cheap but were after a price match haha.
 
I just wanted to write and say thanks for all the info that has been posted on this thread. I replaced the dash yesterday. Only took about 15 minutes. Today I'll be doing the doors. I would not have been as confident doing this myself if it wasn't for all the valuable info posted on here.


THANKS!
 
At the front doors, I have installed it on the left side of the speakers(almost touching the speaker plastic adapter). I have drilled through that big plastic part.
At the rear door, just above the speaker connector, sits in ~45 degree, almost touching the speaker mounting adapter.
 
Friends please help me!

I am planing to upgrade my CX5 speakers with Focal KRX2 Component series. My question is, that speakers are coming with their crossovers, so i don't have any idea where can i mounting these crossovers in the door? Please help me!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOCAL-165KR...444921516?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item53ec3106ac

I mounted mine in the cab under the dash where I could intercept the factory wires. If I can get on a laptop I'll post some pictures.

Running Polk 6-3/4" components up front, polk coaxial in the rear, and an 8" JL sub in the back with 480 watts continuous RMS power and it sounds awesome.
 
Last edited:
160 watts for the sub, 200watts for the front, 120watts for the rear. 480 total RMS watts. 160 continuous power for the sub is more than enough. I'm using the stock radio, which I think tends to be bass heavy anyway so I have the bass control -3, the treb 0, and bass blockers on the rear speakers. I can literally feel the bass pounding in my chest with certain songs and it goes way down low too. You would never believe that this much bass can come from an 8" micro sub that can fit under some seats. Mine is in the hatch area just behind the rear seat covered up with black felt so no one can tell. I have an Audio Controls LC2 for the front speakers and rear sub with the potentiometer sub control for the sub and the rear amp is just on speaker level inputs.
 
Hahaha I laughed so much I spilt my coffee... 160w 8" sub that pounds your chest.

Those pounding chest comments are what the guys on audio forums say running twin 18" subs with dual 1500w mono blocks.

You have a nice entry level set up but come on let's not over exaggerate.
 
Hahaha I laughed so much I spilt my coffee... 160w 8" sub that pounds your chest.

Those pounding chest comments are what the guys on audio forums say running twin 18" subs with dual 1500w mono blocks.

You have a nice entry level set up but come on let's not over exaggerate.

Never said it pounded like two 18's now but if I put you in the car blind folded and you had to guess what size and power it was than I wager you'd guess it was a bigger sub than it is. You'd probably even laugh when you saw the size of the box and think I was joking. Just look at the reviews all over the internet on JL Audio subwoofers (if you haven't heard a properly set up one) and you'll likely read the same things. This is the one http://www.jlaudio.com/cp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93133 more importantly though it makes clean accurate bass that complements the speakers not over powers them. This thing just sounds so awesome it rocks. The 160 watts is also continuous power so it can peak at twice that value.

I think any more power than this in the small space of a car is just stupid. The only reason why I even have this much power is because I already owned one of the amps and got the two others super cheap second hand.
 
My install consisted of :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) {front dash} with 600hz Bass Blockers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) {front door}

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) {rear door}


I did the front dash first without the blockers. I drove around with them on for about a day and I was surprised at the improvement in clarity. Looking back I would have stopped at the front dash speakers and dropped in a powered sub in the cargo area keeping the stock front & rear spkrs.

Since I had all the speakers, blockers, and tools I decided to continue replacing the speakers. I relied heavily on this forum and the contributing information from users @cmceleste, @nizzy115, @hollis, @tibimakai, @v8toilet and some others.

IMHO the DB651s have a better full sound vs the DB651 spkrs. I ran into some challenges installing the DB651s because they would not fit in the prefab front speaker housings. The diameter of the DB651s is much smaller than the DB651 and leaves no room to secure or anchor the speaker with screws to the plastic speaker mount. I briefly thought about using a hypoxy glue to bond the metal to the plastic yet there was still not enough surface space between both to create a bond.

I bought this pine board at home depot for $2.88. The first 2 cuts are free so I had them cut 2 9.5x10 pieces. I invited a friend over for beers and asked him to round the corners and cut out the center with his jigsaw. I used these pieces to mount the DB651s in the front doors.

DB651s mounted in front door
IMG_0780.webp

I added the bass blockers to the front dash and then mounted the rear speakers easily using the included spacers.
IMG_0782.webp


I had a hell of a time putting the door panels back on. Remove the weather trim from the door panel and attach it to the door first before putting the panel back on. It makes putting the panels on easier. They slide out (See pics below). I was a bit concerned if this would introduce any water leaks into the doors but it didn't. It rained over the weekend and I removed the panels again to check for leaks and moisture.
IMG_0783.webp

Placing weather trim on door & in the slot between windows and door.
IMG_0784.webp



Overall I'm pleased with the audio quality of the polk speakers however I'm disappointed at the lack of low end. I have to turn the bass up all the way to get a barely decent bass sound. There was definitely better bass in the factory speakers but the muddiness of the audio is what made me look into replacing the spkrs in the first place. Clarity was introduced with the install of the front dash speakers (without the Bass Blockers ) and the factory spkrs. I can only guess it's the head unit not being able drive the polk audio speakers. I plan on adding a powered sub in the cargo area. This was my plan from the get but if I still am not pleased with the current sound of the polk speakers then I'll amp them as well. I think adding the sub will be fine though as the volume levels are great and I really like the clarity and cleanness mid to highs of the polk spkrs.


My next project will be to add sound deadening material to the doors. Should I place the material over all the wiring or should I cut out slots and run the wiring on top of the material?

My other question is if there is a way I can tap into the back of the head unit to add a line level converter for an amped sub?
 
I will be installing pretty soon, a 10" shallow JL in the spare wheel itself. Wheel it's prepared(sealed at the bottom, where the holes are) already. I will have Polk Audio PA880 powering that sub.
I'm not going for that 1500W system either, juts to have something decent. I need the space.
 
I've been looking at getting this sub. The amped enclosures I was thinking about didn't fair well over time. I'm looking for something to conceal easily and something not too large.

@tibimakai What's the model of the 10" JL sub you mentioned?

enclosure:
UD-SW100D_downfire.jpg

TS-SW2501S4 sub:
TS-SW2501S4_front_lrg.jpg
 
tenminutes, did you measure the size of the front door speaker hole by chance. I wonder if the spare pair of 6x9's I have can be squeezed in there.
 
@Zorobg go to page 4 of this thread and you can see the measurements. It might be possible to fit a 6x9 if you use some plywood to secure them.

@tibimakai WOW!
 
I had a hell of a time putting the door panels back on. Remove the weather trim from the door panel and attach it to the door first before putting the panel back on. It makes putting the panels on easier. They slide out (See pics below). I was a bit concerned if this would introduce any water leaks into the doors but it didn't. It rained over the weekend and I removed the panels again to check for leaks and moisture.

Placing weather trim on door & in the slot between windows and door.

Yes this is a real pain in the bum. It's very hard getting it on properly (which takes brute force). You can tell if it isn't on properly by wind noise coming in when cruising on the highway... another tell tale sign is that the top trim isn't hard up against the glass.

Overall I'm pleased with the audio quality of the polk speakers however I'm disappointed at the lack of low end. I have to turn the bass up all the way to get a barely decent bass sound. There was definitely better bass in the factory speakers but the muddiness of the audio is what made me look into replacing the spkrs in the first place.

When I fitted my Alpine component splits (SPR-60C) to the front I also noticed a lack of Bass sound (when driving Off the Head). It was so depressing. I then fitted a JL 5 channel amp to run the front splits (bridged) and boy did the speakers come alive. The down side was that there was a bit of hiss coming through the tweeters. The alpine cross over unit has attenuation jumpers which did help, but I had to fit a Pac audio line level convertor to totally eliminate the hiss but not loose the high end through attenuation.

Clarity was introduced with the install of the front dash speakers (without the Bass Blockers ) and the factory spkrs. I can only guess it's the head unit not being able drive the polk audio speakers. I plan on adding a powered sub in the cargo area. This was my plan from the get but if I still am not pleased with the current sound of the polk speakers then I'll amp them as well. I think adding the sub will be fine though as the volume levels are great and I really like the clarity and cleanness mid to highs of the polk spkrs.

If you can drive your front speakers harder or buy a new HU than you might find that a sub isn't really needed. Saying that - I fit a sub (JL 12") purely because I got addicted to this upgrade. ;-) The beauty of adding sub / amplifier is you can direct more bass to the sub and and let the front speakers handle the mid range (which is what they are designed for - so less distortion). The sub really does add a new sound dimension to the car cabin. When you turn down the sub you can tell that 1/4 of the sound is just missing. Bass guitars, kick drums all that low end stuff just comes alive - even when the windows are down - the bass isn't drowned out by wind noise. If you add a sub also concider a remote volume knob to adjust the bass indepdnant of the main volume.

My next project will be to add sound deadening material to the doors. Should I place the material over all the wiring or should I cut out slots and run the wiring on top of the material?

Just put it all over the insid wall of the doors. You will know its right when you tap the outside of the door. It will sound dead - not tinny. I can't stress the importance of the rear hatch door too. That makes a big difference esp when you fit a sub.

My other question is if there is a way I can tap into the back of the head unit to add a line level converter for an amped sub?

Yes you can and this is what I did, but I fit the line level convertor and amp under the passanger seat where there is easy access to tweak. You will probably tweak it for about a month trying different settings to get it just right. Earlier in this thread I posted photos of how I did it behind the radio. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-SPORT-model&p=6194976&viewfull=1#post6194976

BTW,I noticed that you have both tweeters in the dash speakers and in the front/rear door speakers. It may just be that there is too much high end drowing out the bass. You may want to concider disconnecting the door tweeters to see if that brings up the bass level.
 
Last edited:
@squibcakes I went back and read your earlier post. Not sure how I missed it. I added the pioneer sub I mentioned above, the enclosure and a Pioneer GM-D8601 amp. Very impressed with the bass from this sub. It completes the system now. It's f! amazing. The next project will be to add FatMatt on all doors and I will be doing the cargo area as well.
 
Very impressed with the bass from this sub. It completes the system now. It's f! amazing.

I'm glad you did it. The thing about subs is that you don't know how much bass you are missing until you fit one. Awesome job mate.

I'm also keen to see how @tibimakai installs his 10" sub too, I almost did that too, but couldn't find a sub at the time that would fully compliment the space in the spare tyre well.

PS: I watched mythbusters last night and they built a massive sub to try and explode a car... I think our subs are too small for that. lol... http://mythbustersresults.com/episode58
 
Last edited:
Back