Radio / Speakers on CX-5 SPORT model

[tibimakai]

I'm working on getting the two amps wired up. Now I'm purchasing the wire, distribution block, grounding block and fuse.
After I'm done with these, I will concentrate on the sub install.
One bad thing about these speakers is, that they can not be installed top mount. The top cover has an angled surface and that cover it's integrated into the speaker, it's not removable.
This way, may not fit under the factory cover and I may have to replace the factory cover with one made by me.
I have already sealed the spare wheel with a big rubber seal and I have machined the same size Aluminum cover, so all the mounting holes are covered and sealed.
I have also removed the original mounting "bolt" and I have replaced it with a regular hex head bolt, to create more room for the sub. I have added a wrench with the rest of the tools, just in case that I need to remove the spare wheel.

 

[tibimakai]

I have just placed the order for wires. KnuKonzept 0 AWG from battery to under seat and from there 4 AWG to the two amps and one all the way in the back for an inverter. I have also ordered fuses and holders, distribution block, grounding block.
I have installed the Kenwood in the adapter frame and there is a gap at the top and bottom.
Do you guys have the same thing? Did you use the trim bezel?

 

[RedBaron]

I have just placed the order for wires. KnuKonzept 0 AWG from battery to under seat and from there 4 AWG to the two amps and one all the way in the back for an inverter. I have also ordered fuses and holders, distribution block, grounding block.

Holy crap! You are using wires a 1/2 inch in diameter (EXCLUDING insulation)?!?! How on earth will you even bend them, never mind route them? Whoa!

I have installed the Kenwood in the adapter frame and there is a gap at the top and bottom.
Do you guys have the same thing? Did you use the trim bezel?

I had a very slight gap with mine - less than 1mm - but it's unnoticeable when installed.

 

[tibimakai]

Check this video out at 3:00 min.:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYKyYzkxel0
Polk Audio recommends 4 AWG wire for each amp, so both joined it would need a 2 AWG, but that size, I'm not even sure that is available.

 

[RedBaron]

Sorry, but I call b's*** on that recommendation. AKA "there's lies, damn lies and amplifier AWG recommendations"!

It's likely that you'll be running those amps WAY lower than their supposed power ratings - probably not even a 20th. Unless your the ricer "import scene" kind of guy with twin 15" subs in your car. Even with peak headroom you'll not need anything LIKE 4AWG per amp.

But, you've bought the stuff now, so no never mind. Good luck with feeding that stuff around!

 

[squibcakes]

I have just placed the order for wires. KnuKonzept 0 AWG from battery to under seat and from there 4 AWG to the two amps

Gulp! I had a hard enough time running my 5AWG cable through the firewall penatration. I don't think you will get the 0 AWG through unless you drill a hole for it and put a gland in for it.

I think a single 4 AWG is good enough for your whole system but I could be talking crap. Do the math...

 

[tibimakai]

600W(2x30A fuse)+500W(2x25A fuse) amps and I will have a 1500W inverter.
I install what the manufacturer suggests. I have two amps and I don't wan to run two 4 AWG wires all the way to the battery.
I will run a 0 AWG all the way to the driver's seat and there I will have a three way distribution block.
From there, I will run a 4 AWG to each amp and the inverter. Inverter, won't be used, when the amps are on.
I already have glands for the install.
I'm working on the wire harness, which seems a bit confusing with this PAC adapter. I never had any issues in the past installing DD nav unit, but this one is the hardest for sure.
Anybody knows, if the emergency brake grounding wire, has to be connected to the PAC's - parking brake pin, or just install it to the ground at the stereo?

 

[RedBaron]

I'm working on the wire harness, which seems a bit confusing with this PAC adapter. I never had any issues in the past installing DD nav unit, but this one is the hardest for sure.
Anybody knows, if the emergency brake grounding wire, has to be connected to the PAC's - parking brake pin, or just install it to the ground at the stereo?

The PAC parking brake wire is an OUTput, my understanding is that the PAC can determine the parking state from the LAN and control the radio accordingly (connect the PAC's wire to the radio's parking wire). However, if you have a separate parking brake wire, you could connect it to the radio.

HOWEVER, what kind of radio do you have? If a Kenwood (and some others) you can just ground the parking brake wire on the radio and fool the radio into thinking you're parked all the time and bypass all the above.

 

[tibimakai]

For now, I have a Kenwood DNX6990HD, but I'm planning to repair a DNX9990HD. I will just ground it like in the past on other units. Recently I have installed in my wife's car a DNX570HD without steering wheel control and it was so much easier to install.

 

[bmarsh]

Do any of you guys who cut off the dash speaker connector still have it? Is there any writing on them at all? I know about the motherboard fan connector, but I was interested in finding the actual mating connector. I have a Bose system, but I'm planning on swapping the speakers.

I'm quite used to looking through Newark, Allied, and Mouser for electronic parts.

 

[2:35toOne]

I second that request.

 

[tibimakai]

I have just soldered them in. Not planning to replace the speakers back to factory.

 

[vasichkin]

Great thread. I know you can use computer cable ( from previous posts) but its been a couple of years since the car is out... I just was hoping the manufacturers would make one already.

 

[Lighthawk Demon]

So ... I'm having a hell of a time with the installation of the driver's side dash speaker and I just can't get the bass blockers installed AND down in the little space provided. Fat fingers don't help either.

Question: If I omit the bass blockers what can I expect as far as sound and music goes? Just to let everyone know .... I'm not a real diehard audiophile. All I know is that I don't like the way the current speakers sound and I want more clarity and more ... oomph ... to my music when playing.

Thanks

 

[bmarsh]

So ... I'm having a hell of a time with the installation of the driver's side dash speaker and I just can't get the bass blockers installed AND down in the little space provided. Fat fingers don't help either.

Question: If I omit the bass blockers what can I expect as far as sound and music goes? Just to let everyone know .... I'm not a real diehard audiophile. All I know is that I don't like the way the current speakers sound and I want more clarity and more ... oomph ... to my music when playing.

Thanks

Without the Bose system, the dash speakers are wired in parallel with the front door speakers. Without the bass blockers, those little speakers will try their best to play the low frequencies, with pretty lousy results. The blockers make sure only the larger door speakers get the bass. Comments from before seem to say the blockers are needed.

With Bose, the dash speakers are not wired in parallel, and the Bose amplifier/EQ filters out the bass going to the dash speakers (in effect, putting in the bass blockers for you). You shouldn't need blockers if you have the Bose system.

 

[vasichkin]

Sorry for the noob question.Do the bass blockers reduce the amount of power going to the dash speaker?

 

[bmarsh]

Sorry for the noob question.Do the bass blockers reduce the amount of power going to the dash speaker?

The bass blocker creates a high-pass filter, which allows the higher frequencies to pass directly to the speaker, but attenuates the lower frequencies. So yes, it reduces power going to the speaker, but only in the lower frequencies where a small speaker really can't handle in the first place. It won't lower the level of sound you hear from the dash, since small speakers like these really can't reproduce the low bass frequencies anyway.

 

[vasichkin]

The touch screen head unit power output per channel is so so low already and these aftermarket speakers require so much more power than stock I wonder when putting a bass blocker on the dash speaker if there is enough power to drive both the door and the dash aftermarket speakers?
From what I read in earlier posts is that underpowering the speaker is worse then overpowering it. Will speakers get ruined with the stock head unit and no amp?

 

[RedBaron]

No. If anything, adding the bass blocker to the dash speaker will IMPROVE the overall loudness. By blocking the higher current-consuming lower frequencies into the dash, there's more power available to the door speakers. (Think of a faucet connected to two hoses via a T-connector. Both hoses squirt half the available water, but if you squeeze or block one of the hoses, the other passes more water than it used to.)

Underpowering the speakers is bad only if you turn the radio/amplifier up so much that it clips (distorts). That actually has the effect of increasing the current into the speakers tremendously, overheating and warping the voice coils.

 

[vasichkin]

Good to know on both parts. Thaks for clearing that up RedBaron.