Protege5 - How many miles have you gone before changing the timing belt?

Most people here said similar that their belt was in good condition. I think Mazda assumes that this is the minimum mileage that the belt may break. Or they want to make some serious money as timing belt is usually a good chunk of change to replace.
 
You can not look at a timing belt and tell if it is close to failing. All these new looking belts are 13 years old now. The water pump can seize and cause it to jump, burn or break. In fact that's what probably takes out the majority of belts. The idler spring is old and stressed and may break, as well as the idler bearing. I changed mine in 2011 with 75k miles on it. I bought a kit on Amazon with a new(not rebuilt) NPW water pump pump and all the other parts that need changing for less than $300 bucks. I researched it and the parts were all top brand equipment. It included cam and main front oil seals, idler and spring, gaskets etc. It took me a weekend in the carport to do the job. It's a lot of tight work, so buy a box of bandaids for scraped knuckles.

If you've been vigilant about flushing your coolant and changing the oil, then you might get well over 100k miles. Or you might not. I drove mine like it was stolen, redlining it frequently, and always did the maintenance but was still worried about it because of the age, 9 years at the time. Better keep your preferred tow company on your speed dial.

Another thing is the struts are shot too. I replaced my front ones and was amazed at how I'd forgotten how much better it took corners and handled with a pair of fresh ones.

Rusty
 
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just got the car with 163k miles. Original belt. Belt needed to be changed. Water pump looked great, but I changed it as well.
 
My waterpump was replaced before i bought it from the Original Owner. Im at 116k miles now and it seems okay.
 
It's either okay or it's broken. There is no inbetween where it "seems" like it's failing. Any decent tech would have changed the belt at the same time they replaced the water pump. Even if it's under its rated life.
Rusty
 
It's either okay or it's broken. There is no inbetween where it "seems" like it's failing. Any decent tech would have changed the belt at the same time they replaced the water pump. Even if it's under its rated life.
Rusty


That is exactly right!
 
At 110k and haven't changed it yet. Have plans to change it but haven't had time yet. Also have noticed a strange rattling like sound at idle that vibrates the car but goes away anytime the revs go up. My guess is EGR not the belt?
 
My P5 had gone 156k before I had a misfire and a cylinder went. Then the water pump died so I junked it as it wasn't worth the work of trying to fix it all, (There were a few other issues with it) However I never did change the timing built on it. Perhaps the timing built caused my misfire? IDK, but after having it for 12 years it was about time for a new car...and with it being so rusted and having some other issues was really worth the $450 I got for scrap.
 
I'm pretty certain that my old engine had 160k on the original belt. No stickers in the engine bay, no receipts, and nothing on the Carfax (had all dealer maintenance listed until 100k). The belt still looked great surprisingly.
 
At 110k with no replacement here. Just wondering if I should drive the car into the ground? It's probably worth $2500 right now - if I get another year out of it then I would be happy.
 
I have the same mileage and given how long people have gone without doing it. Since its a non interference engine there is no point in doing all that work.

so I also plan to not bother now because I will only keep the car for another year.
 
I am @ 110k miles (175 kms) I know it should have been done already due to temp and being 14 years old.

In all the posts I have seen many people have surpassed 150k to 190k miles on originals...which is definitely more miles than years my car has left
 
If you want your timing belt to last a long time, you might want to keep an eye on your valve cover gasket - or at least on your valve cover bolts. This may have been mentioned in this thread already, but a leaky gasket can let oil seep into the timing belt area and that will shorten the life of the belt. I replaced my valve cover gasket today because it had been leaking slowly for a few thousand miles. Some of that oil ended up in the timing belt area and a little bit ended up on the belt itself. This oil leak may have even caused the plastic timing cover to fail as I mentioned in this thread: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123852543-Piece-came-off-my-car

I have no idea how much oil is in there as I didn't remove the timing cover. I don't think I want to know. :( As you can see in the photo, the rubbery seal of the plastic timing cover has absorbed a lot of oil and is swollen. It's like this on both the front and back (only the front is shown in the photo).

One of the reasons the gasket started linking initially was that the valve cover bolts had come completely loose. This happens a lot with our engine. If I had known this, I would have proactively tightened them and hopefully prevented the leak. Here's my valve cover gasket replacement thread in case it helps: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123852710-Valve-cover-gasket-plus-grommets

<a href="http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/katapaltes/media/IMG_20151230_115929_zpsttyicjwx.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/katapaltes/IMG_20151230_115929_zpsttyicjwx.jpg" border="0" alt="Oily Timing Cover photo IMG_20151230_115929_zpsttyicjwx.jpg"/></a>
 
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My 02 is a little over 130k as far as I know it's the original belt and is still tight and looks brand new
 
Oil from a leaking valve cover will not shorten the life of the timing belt. And I have never found my cover bolts loose. Maybe use lock tite next time?

I changed mine at 121,000 because the tensioner failed.
 
Oil from a leaking valve cover will not shorten the life of the timing belt. And I have never found my cover bolts loose. Maybe use lock tite next time?

I changed mine at 121,000 because the tensioner failed.

There are some manufacturers that recommend immediate replacement of the belt if it's been in contact with oil. It definitely plays a role in belt life.
 
Almost to 300k miles on original timing belt and original clutch. I have owned the car since it had 15 miles on it. I have only replaced the front struts and the driver side front brake caliper. Everything else is original
 
Almost to 300k miles on original timing belt and original clutch. I have owned the car since it had 15 miles on it. I have only replaced the front struts and the driver side front brake caliper. Everything else is original

Your engine may have evolved into an interference engine by now... You may wanna get that looked at...
 
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