oil
- Thread starter evilmonkeyMSP
- Start date
7
70
conekiller said:
This is old school thinking...
You can change your oil at the recommended interval from the first to that last oil change. There is no real reason to change your oil absurdly early on a new car these days.
If the manual says every 4000 miles. Then at 4000 miles, change it. Then change it every 4000 after.
Oil companies want 3000...Why? More money for them. Stealerships want every 3000. Why? Same damn reason.
If you follow the manual, you will be fine. And no company can void your warranty for not having receipts on oil changes if done by you. That is absurd.
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
ANY manufacture WILL VOID your warrenty if you don't have records of your regular manitance!!!
If you don't believe me ask your local dealer!!!
If you don't believe me ask your local dealer!!!
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
yeah mitsubishi tried that s*** with me. they asked for my recipets and i told they would get a call from my lawyer 
no_more_jettas
Member
- :
- 03.5 MSP Titanium
StuttersC said:This is old school thinking...
You can change your oil at the recommended interval from the first to that last oil change. There is no real reason to change your oil absurdly early on a new car these days.
If the manual says every 4000 miles. Then at 4000 miles, change it. Then change it every 4000 after.
Oil companies want 3000...Why? More money for them. Stealerships want every 3000. Why? Same damn reason.
If you follow the manual, you will be fine. And no company can void your warranty for not having receipts on oil changes if done by you. That is absurd.
Yup, that's the ticket.
StuttersC said:This is old school thinking...
You can change your oil at the recommended interval from the first to that last oil change. There is no real reason to change your oil absurdly early on a new car these days.
If the manual says every 4000 miles. Then at 4000 miles, change it. Then change it every 4000 after.
Oil companies want 3000...Why? More money for them. Stealerships want every 3000. Why? Same damn reason.
If you follow the manual, you will be fine. And no company can void your warranty for not having receipts on oil changes if done by you. That is absurd.
Yep, changing your oil that frequently is just a waste of natural resources. Manufacturer's recommended change intervals are rated very conservatively and there is tons of research behind them. Personally I changed the oil ever 5000 miles in the Protege. When I had my RX-7's I did the same thing. Both RX-7s had well over 100K on the engines.
As for my truck, Cummins has a 15,000 mile oil change interval for normal driving and 7,500 mile interval for severe duty. I change mine every 10K miles. The oil usually looks just as clean as it goes in even after 10K miles.
yeah, if your dealership tells you they've voided your warranty because you don't have receipts, I'll come over there and kick some asses. that's completely WRONG and anyone (stealership) that says otherwise, should beware the wrath of motorheads. its a good idea to get a little book to keep track of it for yourself but other than that you're fine.
I would agree that newer engines are designed to allow for longer oil life, as well as just plain better oil. you change the oil at whatever mileage you feel comfortable with but 3k for heavy driving, 5k for everyone else seems to be a generally applicable rule. I've driven cars as high as 191,235 mi and they just received oil changes at 5k.
synthetics: they are a luxury in an everyday driver. if you are willing to put in the investment (once you go syn, you shouldn't change back) then do it and you will see some positive gains (mpg, longer oil life, etc. just check out mobil's or valvoline's websites). you need them for racing applications (IMO) but they are for any engine, young or old.
my rule of thumb for my little red monster:
3.5 qts of Mobil1 5w30
1 Bosch premium filter (model 1008, i think)
change every 5k
its all personal preference but don't be afraid to PM me with a dealership that is in need of an ass kicking...
(redp5)
(wrc)
I would agree that newer engines are designed to allow for longer oil life, as well as just plain better oil. you change the oil at whatever mileage you feel comfortable with but 3k for heavy driving, 5k for everyone else seems to be a generally applicable rule. I've driven cars as high as 191,235 mi and they just received oil changes at 5k.
synthetics: they are a luxury in an everyday driver. if you are willing to put in the investment (once you go syn, you shouldn't change back) then do it and you will see some positive gains (mpg, longer oil life, etc. just check out mobil's or valvoline's websites). you need them for racing applications (IMO) but they are for any engine, young or old.
my rule of thumb for my little red monster:
3.5 qts of Mobil1 5w30
1 Bosch premium filter (model 1008, i think)
change every 5k
its all personal preference but don't be afraid to PM me with a dealership that is in need of an ass kicking...
(redp5)
(wrc)
Oil changes aren't as critical as people make it out to be.. Oil companies, dealerships, other TV/marketing, etc.. have created a stir that equates changing oil to finding salvation.
In other countries, they change their oil half as much and get the same engine life. Same engines, just a different mentality. Some people say to change your oil by the season, some say ever x number of miles. Any change under 5,000 is ridiculously wasteful to me unless you race it ALL the time... and you've done an oil analysis to figure out a good change interval to maximize your oil's life.
Another thing I've realized about myself that affects oil changes is that I doubt I'll keep my car longer than a few years. How many people here will really keep their car over 100,k? I'll bet less than half. Of that half, how many are boosting over stock psi levels, and doing other mods that will wear out the engine faster?
How many expect to rebuild their engine at some point? If you plan on doing a rebuild at 100,k and have high boost and/or other mods, you're throwing money away on synthetics. Castrol GTX or Valvoline will do fine.... at $1.20 a quart vs. $4.80 for Mobil 1. Also, if you're using synth's, you should be getting closer to 10,k out of it for normal-to-spirited driving.
My first oil change was at 5,k. The oil that's in the car is not break-in oil. It ran slightly quieter after the change but, it didn't change my life.
In other countries, they change their oil half as much and get the same engine life. Same engines, just a different mentality. Some people say to change your oil by the season, some say ever x number of miles. Any change under 5,000 is ridiculously wasteful to me unless you race it ALL the time... and you've done an oil analysis to figure out a good change interval to maximize your oil's life.
Another thing I've realized about myself that affects oil changes is that I doubt I'll keep my car longer than a few years. How many people here will really keep their car over 100,k? I'll bet less than half. Of that half, how many are boosting over stock psi levels, and doing other mods that will wear out the engine faster?
How many expect to rebuild their engine at some point? If you plan on doing a rebuild at 100,k and have high boost and/or other mods, you're throwing money away on synthetics. Castrol GTX or Valvoline will do fine.... at $1.20 a quart vs. $4.80 for Mobil 1. Also, if you're using synth's, you should be getting closer to 10,k out of it for normal-to-spirited driving.
My first oil change was at 5,k. The oil that's in the car is not break-in oil. It ran slightly quieter after the change but, it didn't change my life.
You guys have some pretty interesting ideas about oil, that's for sure =).
Synthetics are excellent for turbocharged engines, they resist coking at high temperatures, which means your turbo's oil passage stays clear, instead of becoming blocked by charred oil.
This phenomena (coking) is the number one killer of turbos.
They have extended change intervals because they do not break down nearly as much with contamination from combustion by-products (blow-by, EGR).
They also increase horsepower by reducing frictional losses, depending on the motor, HP gains of 5-10 horsepower are not unheard of when switching to synthetics, but results do vary.
Synthetic oil is not good for all engine types or situations though.
RX-7 and 8 users are not supposed to use synthetics because they do not readily combust in the engine. The Wankle design consumes oil as a normal operation, it lubricates the apex seals.
But the oil must burn, or it will start to gum things up.
Usually you do not want to switch late in a cars life, for the simple reason that your seals will more than likely start leaking badly.
Synths have different seal/swell characteristics than mineral based oils. This also includes your valve stem oils seals, which means you will start burning/blowing more (expensive!) oil.
I'm running AMS 2000 0w-30 synthetic, and the specified change interval is every 6 months or 9000 miles. Oil filter at 6 months, regardless of mileage.
It's about $8 a quart, but worth the money. I drive very hard, and put a lot of miles on my car. Check out AMS's website at: http://amsoil.com, that can answer more than a few of your general questions.
So do yourself a favor and switch, but switch early!
Justin
'03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
0w-30 AMS 2000 Oil
Flashed PCM
Medium Tint
P.S.: If you're concerned about the cost of simple oil, you probably don't belong modifying any car, as the old saying goes:
"Speed costs money son... How fast do you want to go?"
Synthetics are excellent for turbocharged engines, they resist coking at high temperatures, which means your turbo's oil passage stays clear, instead of becoming blocked by charred oil.
This phenomena (coking) is the number one killer of turbos.
They have extended change intervals because they do not break down nearly as much with contamination from combustion by-products (blow-by, EGR).
They also increase horsepower by reducing frictional losses, depending on the motor, HP gains of 5-10 horsepower are not unheard of when switching to synthetics, but results do vary.
Synthetic oil is not good for all engine types or situations though.
RX-7 and 8 users are not supposed to use synthetics because they do not readily combust in the engine. The Wankle design consumes oil as a normal operation, it lubricates the apex seals.
But the oil must burn, or it will start to gum things up.
Usually you do not want to switch late in a cars life, for the simple reason that your seals will more than likely start leaking badly.
Synths have different seal/swell characteristics than mineral based oils. This also includes your valve stem oils seals, which means you will start burning/blowing more (expensive!) oil.
I'm running AMS 2000 0w-30 synthetic, and the specified change interval is every 6 months or 9000 miles. Oil filter at 6 months, regardless of mileage.
It's about $8 a quart, but worth the money. I drive very hard, and put a lot of miles on my car. Check out AMS's website at: http://amsoil.com, that can answer more than a few of your general questions.
So do yourself a favor and switch, but switch early!
Justin
'03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
0w-30 AMS 2000 Oil
Flashed PCM
Medium Tint
P.S.: If you're concerned about the cost of simple oil, you probably don't belong modifying any car, as the old saying goes:
"Speed costs money son... How fast do you want to go?"
Well for one thing, as good as Amsoil supposedly is, I refuse to use it. The company uses direct marketing/pyramid schemes and tries to brainwash their customers. You will see just from their website how biased they are.
I will use Redline or Royal Purple products any day over Amsoil when I purchase synthetic lubricants.
I will use Redline or Royal Purple products any day over Amsoil when I purchase synthetic lubricants.
