hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Timing being right is important but you would know if it was off. It is normal for the pistons to be dirty.
oil ontop of pistons?
- Thread starter b6gtxawd
- Start date
well i think its off because it is imbarassing to say that my car is turbocharged. feels like it has 90 hp and i have the supporting mods to be making close to the 220 mark i think. i have checked everything i can think of. the reason i think timing is cus i was reading another guys thread about a lose of power after his timing belt was changed, he thought everything was all good, then it turned out his belt was off. then when he fixed the thing it ran like a hot damm
im really hoping its the timing because after that i am out of ideas
im really hoping its the timing because after that i am out of ideas
2.0t03speed
Member
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- 08.5 CWP Speed 3
LOL what mod's do you have?
3 inch tbe, sri, fmic, ssafc, aem truboost controller 9.5 psi, turbo xs bov, wideband, ported IM, steedspeed EM and many more
LOL is that a good enough answer for you?
anyways another reason im pretty sure its out is because i looked into the how to replace timing belt and found thid
Check timing
Slide the lower timing cover into place (might be tough depending on new water pump pulley mount)
Do not bolt it into place
Slide crank pulley onto crank
Do not bolt it into place
Check that the yellow crank mark is still at "T" on the timing cover
Check that the I and E are still lined up on the cam gears
If not, pull off the timing belt and try again
If everything is fine, install and tighten the crank bolt
where as my yellow crank mark is on 4. meaning 4 degrees advanced or retarded
LOL is that a good enough answer for you?
anyways another reason im pretty sure its out is because i looked into the how to replace timing belt and found thid
Check timing
Slide the lower timing cover into place (might be tough depending on new water pump pulley mount)
Do not bolt it into place
Slide crank pulley onto crank
Do not bolt it into place
Check that the yellow crank mark is still at "T" on the timing cover
Check that the I and E are still lined up on the cam gears
If not, pull off the timing belt and try again
If everything is fine, install and tighten the crank bolt
where as my yellow crank mark is on 4. meaning 4 degrees advanced or retarded
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Did you do the wrench and vise grips trick on the cams to keep them from moving while you installed the belt? Post a pic of the cam gears already! I always set the timing without the Crank pulley installed and use the notch on the crank. 220whp may be a little high of an estimate but it should be somewhat close to that.
2.0t03speed
Member
- :
- 08.5 CWP Speed 3
+1 might be close @ 9 psi but i dont expect it to hit 220.
i never installed the belt myself i took it to a guy when i first got the car and had my pants puled down and the car hasnt drove the same since... that was 7 months ago, and way to much $$ later
Screw the timing cover and crank pulley. Align the intake and exhaust cam gears. Align the crank timing SPROCKET with the casting mark on the block. Start putting the belt on the exhaust cam gear first, then route it thru the tensioner idler then round the crank sprocket then around the tensioned then around the intake cam gear. There is not supposed to be any slack on the idler side of the belt.
Try moving the injector to a different cylinder and see if the pooling oil/gas is now in a different cylinder. Otherwise its leaky valve seals.
Try moving the injector to a different cylinder and see if the pooling oil/gas is now in a different cylinder. Otherwise its leaky valve seals.
not necessarily, we can't see the belt or if the tensioner is actually engaged.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
True, the tensioner may need to be replaced or a new spring but I would go get my money back from the fool that did your timing belt because it is definitely off a tooth. Here is an example of why I ALWAYS do my own work.
And a tip that helped me when reinstalling the belt, put it over the cams first, then slip it over the crank sprocket last. Also, put wrenches on the cam to hold them in place and put vise grips on the two wrenches to hold them together so the cam doesn't move. IIRC the intake cam will sit right where it needs to be but the exhaust cam has to be held with a wrench to properly line them up.
And a tip that helped me when reinstalling the belt, put it over the cams first, then slip it over the crank sprocket last. Also, put wrenches on the cam to hold them in place and put vise grips on the two wrenches to hold them together so the cam doesn't move. IIRC the intake cam will sit right where it needs to be but the exhaust cam has to be held with a wrench to properly line them up.
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here are some better pictures, i moved my cam gears around and now it looks like it might be fine... arg. i am still going to re do it tomorrow myself just to make sure and im going to go by the mark on the block not the cover marks.
how would i tell if my tensioner is shot? how tight should the timing belt be when all said and done.
thanks for the help guys not much of a mechanic unless its changing oil and spark plugs haha
thanks for the advice i will be doing this all tomorrow morning
dacquesta1
Member
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- 2000 Mazda Protege ES
there should be very little slack in the belt...almost none
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
The tensioner pic you posted is actually the idler pulley, the tensioner is next to that closer to the firewall.
The belt will be pretty tight, it's hard to slip the belt on even with the tensioner twisted out of the way. And the spring for the tensioner that sets the tension needs to be replaced to ensure proper timing, it's about $8 at the dealer.
The belt will be pretty tight, it's hard to slip the belt on even with the tensioner twisted out of the way. And the spring for the tensioner that sets the tension needs to be replaced to ensure proper timing, it's about $8 at the dealer.
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- Banned For Being A Troll
b6gtxawd said:
Ok, This is not a problem.
You can tighten both bolts down on the Idler and Adjuster.
There is an allen key hole in the adjuster, Use that to take up the slack before adding the spring. Once the new spring is on and has not been stretched, you should be able to move the crank clockwise, as it is supposed to turn without messing up the spring.
if you turn the engine the wrong way, you (may) damage the spring because it is only designed to take the tension from the back of the belt, as soon as you spin the engine backwards, the spring will be stretched and never work properly. (Not Like the Alternator Bracket which is not spring held)
A small level of slack is normal, it should not pop a tooth unless it is spun the wrong way. (Or The Belt is Effed and defective from the factory)
k i am pretty sure the belt is done. i will post pictures tomorrow.
i am also done removing my VTCS and have ported polished and filled the holes, i am going to put it back on tomorrow morning. i remember reading something about removing the vac line on the underneath or the manifold with the one way check valve or what ever in it and just putting a single piece of vac line there in replace of it? is that correct? and i do not need any vac line plugged into the vtcs sensor correct? what vac lines do i need and not need?
hornsfan i believe it was you that had originally posted something about that??
i am also done removing my VTCS and have ported polished and filled the holes, i am going to put it back on tomorrow morning. i remember reading something about removing the vac line on the underneath or the manifold with the one way check valve or what ever in it and just putting a single piece of vac line there in replace of it? is that correct? and i do not need any vac line plugged into the vtcs sensor correct? what vac lines do i need and not need?
hornsfan i believe it was you that had originally posted something about that??
