Now using the MAP sensor..
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
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Well, nothing got accomplished today. While I'm on my way out to the shop 30+ miles away, I call the shop to tell him I'm on my way. He then proceeds to tell me that he's swamped, and can't fit me in today. Best he can do is Monday. (pissed) Fine, I go meet up with ELEMental59437 who is putting more of his pimped out ride back together (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93974). I get ready to leave, and go and start the car, and nothing. Turns out the starter just died. WTF? So now Ahmad teaches me how to clutch-start the car, and I'm off back to Arlington to find a starter. I get to Autozone, and they tell me that there is only one available, and it is out in Irving (which I passed on the way back to Arlington 15 miles away), So I hop back in the car, and head out to Irving. I finally find the damn place after getting some internet assistance from Ahmad via phone. The starter ended up costing me $89 + Tax + a $79 core charge. Glad I got paid today... 
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Sure you know all. Thats why people running race fuel and upto 20psi on this forum make no where near that much power. We never ran big boost, what do you not understand. Plus we had 8 degrees over the stock timing removed.Kooldino said:
Thats fine, we will just wait and see what te deal is at the next dyno day. Maybe you can reach 265 this time, maybe? At this point in time I only find you to be a foolish. I have lost any and all respect for you, both as a Mod and a person. Keep your daytime job because you do not understand all that is needed for tuning. Maybe down the road you will see the light but for now you have blinders on.
Well today I go outside to install said starter, and I find out why I will never buy parts from AutoZone again. The damn thing was built ass-backwards, so I couldn't even install it! I find this out after hours of working on the car. Well, I will be taking the starter out to Richardson Monday to have it rebuilt RIGHT! I'm taking that piece of s*** Autozone starter back, and getting a refund! So now my car has no starter at all. It has to be push-started until the new starter goes in. My dad put a tire behiind my car, and pushed it with his truck, and I popped the clutch and made it start. How ghettofabulous! Since I couldn't get that done, I went ahead and installed the second O2 sensor, and re-did some wire routing of my other two O2 sensors. I went for a drive, and the problems that I had been haveing were gone. I mean my car pulled hardcore! The only issue I am having now is when I am idling, I am really lean...like 18-21 air fuel ratio lean!! I also notice on my OBDII reader that the voltage of the 1st O2 sensor is not sweeping like it should at idle AND when cruising around. It stays right around 370 millivolts. While cruising around, my Wideband tells me I have a good A/F ratio in the stoich range of 14-15, and the 2nd O2 sensor sweeps like it should. I guess I'll look into this tomorrow. On the bright side, I really had no pending codes related to the exhaust system. (eekdance)
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- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
Did you reset the ecu? after the install? Not just clear the code?
Also the o2 sensors are tricky b/c there are 2 black wires..and you cannot just alternate them...so if you didn't install properly..that can def cause your problem..another member..who will remain annonymous..
cut his o2 sensor..to move it..and didn't realize 2 black wires..well long story short..he had lots of problems until he got back under the hood to fix it!
Chas
Oops! Pushed Edit instead of quote. Mods have to be carefull which button they push...
-Linux...
Also the o2 sensors are tricky b/c there are 2 black wires..and you cannot just alternate them...so if you didn't install properly..that can def cause your problem..another member..who will remain annonymous..
cut his o2 sensor..to move it..and didn't realize 2 black wires..well long story short..he had lots of problems until he got back under the hood to fix it!
Chas
Oops! Pushed Edit instead of quote. Mods have to be carefull which button they push...
-Linux...
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Keep in mind that you were not turbocharged stock. So your AFR needs to be tuned for idle and none boost. This is why you need to dump the map. You can tune the O2 with the MPI tuner [look under the worlds best O2 clamp thread] or you need to tune it with the MAF.LinuxRacr said:
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Leave the wideband in the middle. There has to be a certain amount of distance between the primary and secondary o2. If it is too close together it wont read right. What happened to getting a new bung put in??LinuxRacr said:
OT but Ahmad dynoed 170 something hp and 200 tq at like 5-6 psi!
He was on his way to a 250 HP pull on 15 psi before the clutch slipped!
(thumb)
Just needs a clutch and pul some timing from 4500 rpm on to smooth out the line. His A/F was dead on flatlined 12. Guy was impressed with it being a base map.
Also, there was a 350z with Greddy twins at 6.8 psi that put out 398!
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I just went outside and checked, and my hunch was correct. Where I had repaired that frayed O2 sensor signal wire, the solder had given out when I moved the 1st O2 yesterday. I had a feeling this would happen sooner or later. Just for reference, here is the picture of before I soldered it from this thread (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91435&page=1&pp=15&highlight=MPI) :
The solder didn't want to stick to the wire when I was soldering that connection, it tended to bead up. Since I didn't have any suitible heavy-duty crimps (like the ones that come with the OEM Replacement O2 sensors from Denso), I just left it. I am now doing a test with one of my old sensors to see if the solder will indeed stick using my electric soldering iron. The solder IS sticking... This leads me to believe that maybe my wireless butane soldeing iron may have made the solder too hot.
The solder didn't want to stick to the wire when I was soldering that connection, it tended to bead up. Since I didn't have any suitible heavy-duty crimps (like the ones that come with the OEM Replacement O2 sensors from Denso), I just left it. I am now doing a test with one of my old sensors to see if the solder will indeed stick using my electric soldering iron. The solder IS sticking... This leads me to believe that maybe my wireless butane soldeing iron may have made the solder too hot.
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