New Wheels!

[neox.286]

welcome to the MSP world my friend, you dont see many of them on the road, and thats what makes them an eye catcher bro (thumb)

no the ATP actuator is REALLY well made....Im running it in my setup

it says 6 psi on their site but after I installed it in mine and installed it in my buddies we both noticed that it bumped boost to 7psi

whats basically hapening is the diaphragm begins to leak to the atmosphere and causes a major vacuum leak, which under boost conditions will allow the car to gain boost, just not fully. with the way our cars read the amount of airflow into the engine through the maf sensor the car will be dumping a shitload of fuel into there to compensate for the amount of boost it THINKS its getting and cause it to fuel cut cause the air/fuel ratio will go WAY rich

 

[Mook]

alrighty, that helps alot, thanks.
we have a vacuum tester at work but unfortunately I do not work untill wednesday. I will have the ability to put it up on the lift and take a look at it. How much vacuum should it hold?
untill then, I will just lay off the boost.

 

[Mook]

actually, Ive seen the issue enough to say that yes, it is the wastegate

if Im wrong, Ill paypal mook 10 bucks

I am going to take you up on that haha,
Im tempted to just order it, but I really want to make 100% sure

 

[neox.286]

just grab the vacuum line going to the wastegate and blow into the wastegate

you shouldnt be able to blow through AT ALL
you can run it on a vacuum tester if you like but there really isnt any need cause when the wastegate is bad you can tell right away by blowing into it

 

[ND4MSP]

running more boost than usual will also cause the fuel/spark cut. Your wastegate could be completly fine. I ran 9-10psi for about a day and nearly wet myself when it hit. More likely to happen when its colder out too. Maf overload. Make sure your wastegate is good. If thats ok throw a boost gauge on it and see what your at.

 

[neox.286]

I doubt hes boosting over stock...and even then at 10psi it shouldnt fuel cut, Ive run 10psi with and without EMS and never hit fuel cut either times...but thats not saying you wont, theres a lot of factors into that

but I still dont think hes hitting more than stock...that would be quite odd if he were (unless his car isnt stock?)

 

[ND4MSP]

I've read of a few members seing 8psi out of the box in the past. While 10 is a big dif than 8 the stock wg is adjustable so you never know. But yea, lotta factors. Joe p's old fuel cut defensers were one of the hottest sellers when guys in the colder climates couldn't aviod this problem.

The car was baught second hand so thats a big factor too. The headlights have been messed with. He mentioned bumper bolts missing. Maybe a front mount was on it before.

 

[neox.286]

true...mine would hit 8psi with hardpipes and a CAI

its a possibility, but even then he shouldnt be fuel cutting at 8psi...even at 10 in moderate temperatures he shouldnt be

 

[ForceFed]

haha i knew someone would ask. I work at an independent Porsche repair shop in Houston, we do everything from repairs to build all out race cars.

Well..We all know who the true Car enthusiest is here....
<<<<-----This guy!

 

[Mook]

Im not tooo familiar with the underside of this car being as i put it on a lift for a quick inspection and thats it. I remember seeing the turbo from underneath, Seeing as I dont go into work untill wed. is this somthing that can be done with jack stands in the driveway? is it just a flathead hose clamp holding it on or what?

or is this somthing that can be done from above? if so ill go do it now.

Also the reason the bumper was off is it was in a minor accident, I asked the previous owner and he said he had it running stock boost and never really drives it hard enough to make it perform this hesitation.

If the wastegate is bad, as its running now is it getting too much boost pressure? is this bad for the engine?

 

[Rush]

I'm just gonna bump this thread into the 'diagnostic' subforum since that's what it's turned into.

Anyhoo, as far as the WGA replacement .. ugh. I was able to do mine without removing the turbo assembly because I have very small hands (duh) and was able to squeeze 'em into places most people can't. It also depends on what tools you have available .. I didn't have many, so I wound up making this crackpot contraption of ratchets and wrenches and extensions till I finally got something that worked. I also worked in my driveway in the freezing cold, and that sure as hell didn't help. And then that bleepin' c-clip .. Anyway, all things put together, it took maybe an hour and a half.

As long as you don't push the boost right now, your engine will be fine.

 

[Mook]

heh, well i have been givin it boost for the last few days, i just cant stop haha, but ill lay off of it till i get the problem fixed.
Im taking it to the mazda dealer tomorow morning to do the flash, and ill just get the tech to check the problem out while its there.

Also, how does the JoeP fuel cut defenser install? easy? hard? whats the process?

 

[AtenzaNY62]

the msp i test drove which i will most likely be buying have the same problem, lol well all msp's have these problems this could be a reason i can bargain the price down for that car, the thing is quickkkk i love it, btw what is that car infront of the msp???????????????

 

[Mook]

Its an air cooled, 996, tube frame, GT2 class, race car.
We ran it at Texas world speedway last month and it finished first in its class.

 

[neox.286]

its just a vaccum line running to the wastegate

pop the hood, look to the bottom-drivers-side of the exhaust manifold heat shield and you will see a gold (if I recall correctly) wastegate attached to the backside of the turbo

there will be a vaccum line running off of it, just follow the line, disconnect it from wherever it goes (I believe it Ts off to the intake manifold and the bypass valve, just disconnect it at that T) and blow into it

 

[neox.286]

as for replacing it, yea you dont need a lift to do it I did it in my driveway without jackstands

its easier if you unbolt the exhaust manifold to pull the turbo assembly further away from the block but its not completely necessary....I would recommend having a shop do it if your not too mechanically inclined though

 

[Mook]

well I work in a shop so I can do it, its just a matter of finding free time to do it.

 

[neox.286]

thats what I figured

its not too difficult really, its two bolts that hold the wastegate on itself and then the c-clip that holds the rod that connects the wastegate to the purge valve thing (sorry, blanking on the proper terminology)

you can either pull back the manifold to get to the c-clip easier or come at it from underneath, both work and I would suggest that if you dont have to remove the manifold then dont cause the studs/bolts are prone to breakage and prone to stripping VERY easily

 

[orng1]

That's where my big hands give me trouble. I have to take off the turbo assembly in order the do that.

 

[SeR_Cyclops]

i did mine with the turbo assembly still on the car. if i was you i would try to do it with the turbo still on before taking it off.