New Wheels!

Well I just took it in to get the windows tinted and its sitting there right now. While I was waiting on a ride back home, I took a look at it and it looks like replacement can be done from above. The engine was too hot to stick my face in there and try to blow in the tube, but I found where you are talking about It T's off. so when I get the car back tonight, I'll let it cool off and give it the ole' blow test hah.
 
I need to order a boost gauge also, does someone have a link to a boost gauge that matches the other gauges in an MSP, and what is the best way to mount it? I dont really want a pillar full of gauges, unless they make a pillar that just has one hole.
How do you guys mount your Boost gauge?

I also set up an appointment on friday afternoon to get my flash, maybe its just a combination of cooler than usual weather in houston (40-50 F at night), and the need for a flash. I do smell it running really rich when its idling, but i have heard that MSP's just run rich.
 
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lol, all mazdaspeed edition cars run really rich...its their signature =P

check out the gauges at www.prosportgauges.com
their amber/white gauges seem to match our interior a lot, but they are black background faced (which ours are at night anyways, just not during the day) and they are at a really good price

a lot of people use a mounting 'cup' that bolts to the steering column...they usually have them in autozones and such
 
the old bracket will do if I recall correctly

the boost gauge can be spliced in anywhere on your intake manifold....some people will argue that there is a specific location, but you can place it on any vacuum line on the intake manifold....
 
lol get back to work!! oh where did you find that bolt spec thing?


something, something wheels. or was it turbo?
 
I ran a search for torque specs and found a page with all the crankshaft end-caps/connecting rod bolts torque specs that someone scanned in
 
Ok... so what cant go wrong today
yesterday I installed a brand new set of bridgstone potenza re750's and I wake up this morning late to my appointment with mazda to get a reflash and get in my car and it has a FLAT?!?!?!?
turns out it was a leaky valve stem.

I get to mazda finally, wait an hour so they can tell my that it already had the flash a long time ago and they cant do it.

Now everything is going fine, Im driving home from my parents house and stop at target to pick a birthday present up for my girlfriend and when im in 1st driving through the parking lot after i leave the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT comes on?!?!?!?!?!?

so now im pissed.

there is a slight clicking noise coming from what sounds like a valve maybe that i dont know was there before or not.

has anyone heard of the faulty wastegate setting of a light due to excessivly rich conditions?
Maybe my CAT burnt out cause its so rich right now?

any ideas?

other than the slight clicking noise the car is idling fine. and drives no different than it did before the light came on.
but i think
 
trust me, you would know if your CAT burnt out....if the CEL came on your car mightve gone into closed loop and will begin to run rich, your wastegate wouldnt have caused a CEL to my knowledge

the only time I ever noticed a cel light was right after it bucked violently once, but it went away



if your cat burnt out you would hear a s*** load of backfiring, a lot of people have said that it will begin to smell like rotten eggs, all kinds of s***...
 
trust me, you would know if your CAT burnt out....if the CEL came on your car mightve gone into closed loop and will begin to run rich, your wastegate wouldnt have caused a CEL to my knowledge

the only time I ever noticed a cel light was right after it bucked violently once, but it went away



if your cat burnt out you would hear a s*** load of backfiring, a lot of people have said that it will begin to smell like rotten eggs, all kinds of s***...

Not always, most of the time the cats die quietly and you start to smell hot exhaust. When the cat is good and something is wrong with the car you'll have a strong smell but that's the cat burnin off whatever got through into it. Once this starts you can kiss the new cat goodbye though.

I got a few different CEL's from my wastegate, insuficient lift, misfire, and lean codes. My car ran bad when it went bad. Check the code to be sure. It's hard to properly diagnose it when the car is rnning fine, sometimes the CEL will go away but it will store the code.
 
yea, Im only speaking from my personal experience

when mine had a bad wastegate we ran a innovative scanner on it and it was saying that it was misfiring, but it was only a pending code and never threw a cel
 
Exhaust smells pretty rich, earlier today i heard an exhaust pop when i was showing my dad my car. when i let off throttle at about 4500rpm.

sometimes when taking off from a stop it sounds like i have a slight exhaust leak from the engine rocking or somthing.

Ill go to autozone tomorow and get a scan. they are free right?
if not ill wait till monday and use my universal snap on scanner.

It did throw a check engine light the other day when i stalled it while sitting in traffic. (i thought it was in Neutral when i let out the clutch) but when i started the car back up, it went away.
 
they are free after you return them...you pay for it and then return it once you are done with it, its so they dont get jacked of their scanner lol
 
WHEW....
i went to autozone and the guy did the obdII check for me and told me i have a vacuum leak, and ran off. so i went in and asked him if that was the only code and he said yes.

So even though it was an autozone idiot telling me the code, and i didnt even get to look at the screen cause he was in such a hurry. I am relieved.
 
yea that might do it, depending on which vacuum line is leaking

does your car have hardpipes on it? or are all of the intercooler pipes still the stock plastic ones?

when mine had a vacuum leak I found a hole in one of my hardpiping's couplers that was located after the MAF sensor....so my car had FAT boost leak, but at the same time was reading through the MAF that it wasnt, which caused it to dump fuel for no air

if thats not it, look over the intake manifold for any old and crusted vacuum lines that might be leaking

if you do have hardpipes check to make sure that your blow off valve isnt leaking too....my HKS went bad and started leaking like crazy once
 
hmmmm...i never threw a cell for that. check the plastic T where the by pass valve goes to. i replaced it just a few weeks back. i had previously been running vacuum from another spot and then changed it back to stock recently. considering i never threw a cell before, especially for vacuum that must be the origin of it.


im surprised you haven't figured out who i was yet.
 
i know who you are haha
are you talking about the plastic T that T's off to the WGA?

i popped that off to blow into the WGA the other day and found out that my WGA is leaky. I think that its just the WGA and it got to the point where the car finally threw a CEL cause it was sick of too much fuel.
 
well, sure enough, i went out and checked that T and where it goes off to the WGA had a split down it about 1 inch long, so i trimmed it and reconnected it, and took it on a test drive. it made it to where it doesnt fuel cut at 3krpm like it was doing for the last week or so, but went back to fuel cutting around 5-6krpm, so i know my WGA is still bad.

but the split line was what turned the CEL on and now it wont turn off, heh, oh well, i get my WGA in on tuesday and ill just clear the code once i put it on with our snap-on scanner

and for James... where did you have the turbo timer wired up, i should be getting my GReddy full auto turbo timer in sometime this week. I have never installed one before.
 
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