Need some help with rear strut removal..

Mazda Doode

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03.5 MSP Titanium
I'm trying to replace the springs on the rear of my MSP, and I can't break loose the piston rod nut on the strut and the whole damn thing spins. Is there a special tool I need to get to hold the plate that's right under the nut, or am I just a tool and can't figure out something simple that's right in front of me?

I got the front ones off no problem, but the rears are a b****..

Thanks in advance for any advice ladies and gents.
 
The top of the strut should be hex shaped or have an allen head punched into it. Put a wrench on the end or stick an allen wrench in the hole and turn the nut with a wrench. I have never done the MSPs struts but that is how every other car I have ever worked on was.
 
This is what it looks like:

f5b21232.jpg



The plate that is under the nut, spins with the nut and I have no way of stopping it.. I just need to crack it loose before I pull it off otherwise it's nearly impossible for me to hold the spring/strut and keep everything from moving while I try to crack the nut free.
 
dude, i'm afraid to tell you that if this thing is rotating u have done fucke dup the base.
you'll need a new base.
it is rubber inside and by twisting it you have broken the rubber off.

best you can do is completely rmeove the strut from the car and use one of those compressing pliers thingys and wrapit around the metal part and then use an impact gun to remove the nut.
 
You didn't break anything. The strut spins because a strut is just a tube inside another tube. You need to hold it steady with something. I used channel lock pliers around that big metal washer while I cracked the nut with a breaker bar and socket. If it's really stuck, get someone to hold it for you while you break the nut free.
 
I got a Milwaukee 18v a couple years ago and it blows, it frees about nothing. It's good for lug nuts, but that's about it. It's rated at 1200in-lbs. There are some out now rated up to 600ft-lbs. Road and track did a gear test on a bunch of them last year sometime. Article might still be online.
 
You don't need an impact. See how the stud is slotted? Put a wrench on that and another wrench on the nut hold the stud as the nut breaks lose.
 
You don't need an impact. See how the stud is slotted? Put a wrench on that and another wrench on the nut hold the stud as the nut breaks lose.

Yea but it's slotted only on 1/4 of the thread. You will ruin the other side and if the tools slips there goes the threads. That slot is there for the washer for removal due to the rear Strut mount having a round slot hole and not slotted like the front strut mounts as the front mounts spin for adjustment.

What I did was at first use some "big boy pliers" ( 12" channel lock pliers ) I bought at Pepboys for $7-8 dollars to hold the washer and a breaker bar for the nut. I had someone help me of course but we did it quick, first try. The second one I had to remove the entire strut from the P5 and my help had to leave for work. So I opted for my under powered Impact gun ( due to the small air tank I didn't think it would do it ). Surprisingly it took it off in seconds first shot. You should be able to take it off easy both ways. Make sure you have the springs uncompressed so that there is no pressure on the nut.
 
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remove the complete strut, impact the nut off and reinstall....thats what i did as i was tired of ******* with the spinning nut
 
hahaha that happened to me... and what i did is with a vice grip took the piston but with something soft between the vice grip and the piston
 
^ Be VERY careful about doing it with his method...if you scratch the rod at all your shocks are trash.
 

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