Need help picking out my audio system

[1sty]

So let me get this straight. If I want an Audison amp or anything at Tweeter for that matter, I can PM you, get the sale price on it and have Tweeter ship it directly to my door with full warranty??? (omg)

That would be correct. Shipping will be added.
ALthough for 25% off on the $1600 audison amps, I think the shipping charge will be worth it


Basicly what is happening is that Tweeter knows we have to make a clear message to customers that we are not more expensive then other dealers for the sane products but that we also carry a better level of products, have a higher level of knowledge, and a provide far superior customer service.


If you have a Tweeter near you, just stop buy, this is NOT an unadvertised sale it is for the general public and all pricing will be marked down in stores.

So get some W7's and sudison amps at 25% off!!!

 

[1sty]

Tweeter sells Audison now? Man, I have to get out more.

We dropped elcipse and picked up clarion decks and then Audison and Focal audio. Focal has amps coming out by the way. Kicker was dropped in favor of polk.

The big news is that Boston Acoustics is done at Tweeter. I have not heard if we are even going to bother replaing them as we only sold there speakers and right now we have the full line of JL, Alpine, Pioneer, Clarion, Focal, and Polk.

 

[FoxPro5]

That would be correct. Shipping will be added.
ALthough for 25% off on the $1600 audison amps, I think the shipping charge will be worth it


Basicly what is happening is that Tweeter knows we have to make a clear message to customers that we are not more expensive then other dealers for the sane products but that we also carry a better level of products, have a higher level of knowledge, and a provide far superior customer service.


If you have a Tweeter near you, just stop buy, this is NOT an unadvertised sale it is for the general public and all pricing will be marked down in stores.

So get some W7's and sudison amps at 25% off!!!

That is pretty damn sweet man. Are all the products available from tweeter.com listed on the site or is there others you can get, but not stocked. I only saw two LRx amps on the site. No Tweeter in my area

How long are they marked down at 25% off???

***Edit*** Ok that website doesn't have s*** on it and it's retarded to navigate. Help me out here 1sty what do I have access to through Tweeter for BA, Focal and Audison???

 

[chuyler1]

Dropping Boston and Eclipse huh...could that have anything to do with Crutchfield picking them up?

 

[pydpypr]

O.K. Guys here's what i have purchased so far.

Deck: KDC-X990
Speakers: 1Pair Polk SR6500 - 1pair Polk MMC6500
Subs: 1Pair JL 12w7

I know alot of you guys don't like the kenwood but i have a friend that has the XXV-01D, which is last years model for the KDC-X990. I really liked this deck so i went ahead and bought the KDC-X990. I got a sweet deal on the 12w7's. I traded straight across to the same friend with the Kenwood Deck, for a broken down pick-up truck that i was never going to fix. So to me almost feels like i got them for free!
So now i need advice on a sub enclosure, ported or sealed? I have not bought any amps yet. But now that you know what kind of system i've got going on maybe you can make some more suggestions. I do like the polk amps and the only reason i was talking about getting something around 4x125, was to try and reach the maximum potential of the polk speakers. So what do you guy's think so far?

 

[chuyler1]

For the JL Audio W7s you need something that will put out between 1000-2000w at 1.5 ohms or 6 ohms. The JL Audio 1000/1 would probably work but I've known installers to hook one of these bad boys up to a single 12w7.

For the speakers, you could go with something like the JL Audio 450/4 which will send 150w to your front speakers and 75w to your rear speakers. Or you could pick any 4-ch amp that puts out between 75-150w per channel.

 

[1sty]

That is pretty damn sweet man. Are all the products available from tweeter.com listed on the site or is there others you can get, but not stocked. I only saw two LRx amps on the site. No Tweeter in my area

How long are they marked down at 25% off???

***Edit*** Ok that website doesn't have s*** on it and it's retarded to navigate. Help me out here 1sty what do I have access to through Tweeter for BA, Focal and Audison???

You can get anything through me. The sale ends at the end of next week. It is all 100% legit and warrentied. Different brands and gear are different price so let me knwo what you want and I will get you a price. Our brands are Polk (speakers momo/SR, amps, subs), Focal (speakers/subs), Audison (Amps), Clarion (decks), JL (Everything...W7's 25% off), Pioneer (Decks), Alpine (everything except F1 and Type R series)

Subs are going to suck to ship so thats probably not going to happen.

The tweeter website is an abomination, avoid it.


Chyler,

Eclipse is also in Circuit City now.
Yes, boston went to Crutchfield becuase we dropped them. Basicly, Tweeters new management told boston they had to sell through us on consignement. Boston said no-fing way, but Polk said they would so in with the polk...out with the boston. Which is OK by me as most of there stuff sucked.

 

[1sty]

O.K. Guys here's what i have purchased so far.

Deck: KDC-X990
Speakers: 1Pair Polk SR6500 - 1pair Polk MMC6500
Subs: 1Pair JL 12w7

I know alot of you guys don't like the kenwood but i have a friend that has the XXV-01D, which is last years model for the KDC-X990. I really liked this deck so i went ahead and bought the KDC-X990. I got a sweet deal on the 12w7's. I traded straight across to the same friend with the Kenwood Deck, for a broken down pick-up truck that i was never going to fix. So to me almost feels like i got them for free!
So now i need advice on a sub enclosure, ported or sealed? I have not bought any amps yet. But now that you know what kind of system i've got going on maybe you can make some more suggestions. I do like the polk amps and the only reason i was talking about getting something around 4x125, was to try and reach the maximum potential of the polk speakers. So what do you guy's think so far?

JL 1000/1 sub amp (no way around that now) and a JL audio 450/4 4 channel amp.

Your gonna need 1/0 running from the battery and at very least a new battery.


Chyler, you are right on, a single 12W7 can EASILY handle a JL 1000/1. I use 1 per sub.

 

[pydpypr]

I might only use one sub and sell the other. I know the JL Amps are definitly the way to go. But i was wondering what you think of the Rockford Fosgate T10001BD and the T15004.?

 

[got wake?]

I might only use one sub and sell the other. I know the JL Amps are definitly the way to go. But i was wondering what you think of the Rockford Fosgate T10001BD and the T15004.?

sweet amps. they put out well over their rated power, especially the T15004, which you would have to be careful with your x-over points. the T10001BD would be a reasonable match for the 12w7.

 

[pydpypr]

Hey guy's was wondering if i could get some more feedback. It's taken me awhile to get my system together, mostly because of time constraints. So iam just taking my time. The deal for the pair of 12w7's fell through so i bought the JL 12w7 in a H.O. box. I have everything i need for install and iam probably going to start pretty soon. It will probably take me forever, since i have never done a big install like this before.
I had an idea for one more addition to my system,and i want know if it will work and what you think. I had plans of putting the tweeter in the a-pillar. So after i thought about it for awhile. I thought why don't i just get another 4" component set for my a-pillar, and keep the sr6500 setup together for the door. What i want to know is, if i do this. Can i wire the crossovers for both components in parallel, and run them off two channels of my amp.
So this is what i would have for setup:

Deck: KDC-X990
Speakers: A-pillar-Focal 100v slim/ Doors-SR6500/ Rear deck-MMC6500
Subs: 1 JL12w7 in H.O. box
Amps: RF T15004 RF T10001bd

Here are the specs for the T15004:

125 W x 4 @ 4 Ohms RMS
250 W x 4 @ 2 Ohms RMS
375 W x 4 @ 1 Ohms RMS
500 W x 2 @ 4 Ohms Bridged RMS
750 W x 2 @ 2 Ohms Bridged RMS
Total power 1500 Watts
Bridgeable: Yes
Crossover: HP 40-4kHz 24dB per Octave, LP 40-4kHz 24dB per Octave, Subsonic Filter 28Hz
Tone controls: Bass Control, 0 to 18 dB @ 35-70 Hz
Signal input: Low level - , Quantity - 2, Type - RCA(pr)
Line output: 1 RCA(pr)
Power input: Connector - Block, Wire gauge - 1/0 AWG
Speaker output: Block
Heatsink: Type -Cast, Cooling -Fan Cooled
Remote control: Included, Type - Wired, Controls - Bass
Class A/B
Dimensions 2.6 X 12.8 X 33 (inches)

If i run only two channels in parallel on one side of the amp will the other two channels still only be putting out 125w ?? Your input is greatly apprieciated.

 

[chuyler1]

more != better

The answer is yes you can run two sets of speakers off a single amplifier channel but the problem is that you have no way of adjusting the level of each of them. At least that's what I think you want to do. You cannot bridge your amp and run two sets of speakers at the same time...that would give you a 1ohm load per channel which will cause the amp to overheat.

How exactly do you plan on fitting a 4" driver in your A-pillar? If this is your first large system I think you should stick to something a little more straight forward. Start by putting the midbass drivers in the stock door locations. Power them with the rear channels of your RF amp. Next, create kickpanels for a 4"+tweeter component set. Creating kickpanels is much easier than trying to fit a 4 in your a-pilar. Power them with the front channels of your RF amp. Once you get that up and running, get another amp (25-50w x 2) to power a set of tweeters mounted in the A-pillars.

One tricky part of what I just decribed is getting each set of speakers to play the right frequencies. You want to lowpass your subwoofers (80Hz and down), bandpass the midbass drivers (80Hz-250Hz), highpass the kickpanel component set (250Hz and up), and highpass the second set of tweeters (8-10KHz and up). Your amp may not be able to handle the bandpass for the mids. You may need an active crossover or you may need to find a way to use the crossover on your head unit in combination with the amp crossover.

If any of this sounds complicated...I'm going to have to pull the plug and say you are not ready for more than one set of speakers.

 

[ForesterES]

Not that I'm an audio expert by any means, but it almost seems like you'd be complicating matters unnecessarily. You have picked out some awesome comps and subs. I think you should just set those up, and then evaluate what you think you might be missing.

 

[got wake?]

trying to put a 4" on your a-pillar will be rather difficult. if anything, just put the tweeter up there. the doors aren't exactly the best location for tweeters, but having them so far from the mid without being able to change the x-over point can hurt things as well. my suggestion would be to sell the RF amp (it'll put out well over 200x4 @ 4 ohm). pick up two smaller 4 channel amps, like the T8004 (puts out around 150x4), and get an active x-over, *if* you really want to split up the tweeters. also, pick up a pair of these from scott buwalda:

http://www.hybrid-audio.com/product_detail.asp?section=0001000200020001

i've got a set and plan to compare them to my DLS 3" dome mid-ranges next weekend. the L3's have the ability to play VERY low for such a small driver, so it really is a single point source for the entire vocal range (my only complaint with the DLS domes).

you could install the SR6500 tweeter and L3 in the a-pillars rather easily compared to a seperate 4" comp set. i plan to put the L3's and my DLS iridium tweeter in the a-pillars.

hopefully i'll have a full review of the L3's posted by the end of next weekend

 

[pydpypr]

Well it's been almost two months and i still havn't found the time to install my system. It's always one thing or another that has kept me busy all summer. I am going to buy my amp install kit, and my rca interconnects this week. Hopefully i can get it installed pretty soon.

Can someone tell me if have to run two seperate power wires to the trunk for each amp, or will one 0gauge to the trunk into disto block be enough? I was wondering if i need to order two amp kits?

 

[got wake?]

don't worry, i've been trying to find time to reinstall all my equipment for the past half a year

1/0 cable and a fused distribution block near the amps will be fine:
http://www.gadgetpros.com/st2mifublsf.html
or
http://www.gadgetpros.com/st2anlfublsf.html

the midi fuses only go up to 150 amps, but should be enough as long as you don't run the 15004 to its full potential. be careful with that beast, at 4 ohms unbridged, it'll put out over 300 watts rms per channel.

 

[pydpypr]

The power wire input on the 15004 is 0gauge. Are there any distrobution blocks with 0guage in, and a 0gauge/4gauge out?

 

[chuyler1]

I forget which amps you have but 0 ga isn't usually necessary for every-day systems. If you were trying to hit high SPL numbers with test tones I'd say otherwise but I've never had power problems with 4 ga...but I'm never pushing anything over 1000w RMS.

 

[pydpypr]

I have the RF 15004. The power input conector on the amp is 1/0 awg. So after the 0ga. makes it into the trunk, iam supposed to reduce it to 4ga. even if the amps connector is for 0ga.? Won't the wire heat up if it is too small?

 

[chuyler1]

No it won't heat up. No car amplifier will draw a current greater than the capacity of even an 8ga wire. The fuse would blow before the wire would begin to heat up.

The only reason car audio installers use 0ga is because DC electricity drops in voltage over distance. Larger gauge wire maintains the voltage better. If you have an amp with a regulated power supply the voltage doesn't really matter anyway. We're only talking a diference of like 0.2v max anyway.

I'm willing to bet if you ran an 8ga wire from your battery and a 0ga wire from your battery and designed a toggle switch to flip between the two, you would barely notice a difference...if there was a difference at all.

Its just another case of the bigger=better misconception in car audio. You don't need 2000w for good sound and you don't need 0ga power wire for a single amp.