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- 03.5 YLW MSP
ah didn't catch that part. I seen camera and assumed it was digital.
NA Tech Race to 100whp per 1000cc's
- Thread starter LordWorm
- Start date
ah didn't catch that part. I seen camera and assumed it was digital.
100whp/L is certainly possible without destroking.....installshield2 came within a bees d!ck of it a couple of years back.
You are right too, a 50% improvement over stock is nothing to sneeze at, especially given that it would still be tame enough to live with on a day to day basis... keep us posted on the Jimmysuite engine mark II
i'm all for these cams and rough idle... i just cant decide over ITBs or the 626 IM and my CAI combo... i also hear u can use Hayabusa or R1 Throttlebodies for that setup... anywho... what would you suggest the first mods i work on... my current mods are listed on my sig... do you think adding more bolt-ons(Pullies,626 IM, Magnecor SP Wires) for now and getting a DYNO be a nice step? I'm sure some people would like to know what those would add up to... nothing too big im guessing... I know simple Bolt-ons wouldnt be enough for such a Build... i was told that i should do as much as i can before touching the internals... would it be okay and/or advisable to use MegaSuirt for the FS-DE?
and do any MX6 parts work for our motors?
and just for kicks... and maybe an unlimited Budget.... Rotary on a MP5
and do any MX6 parts work for our motors?
and just for kicks... and maybe an unlimited Budget.... Rotary on a MP5
Theres a big step from 626IM to quad throttles - the 626 manifold is not "great" - its like night and day compared to the standard manifold, but theres probably other things you can do that are better than a 626 manifold, and not as costly or troublesome to setup and tune as quads. Consider asking a fabrication shop to knock you up a one off tune length intake manifold. Formulas and so forth are in my spreadsheet, to determine the "ideal" design - although you will need to make some compromises for fitment.
You can use bike throttles, for sure. You can also adapt toyota 4age blacktop quads to the task.
Megasquirt - i personally would not touch it, because you have to build the thing yourself, and its really intended to be a "project" in its own right. A proven solution such as microtech or haltech would be far more advisable. They are both relatively inexpensive computers which have been proven time and time again on our engines. Theres plenty of support on the forums for installing and tuning them, and you are very unlikely to be hit with some nasty surprises.
Management on its own will really make a tremendous difference to your driving experience - dialing in the fuel, and perhaps more so feeding more timing really makes the FS come alive. It is nothing to experience a gain of between 6 and 10hp at any point on the power curve, NA, just by going to a stand alone computer. You have to remember, our engines were built to carry shopping around and drive kiddies to school, so everything is tuned to be "safe" and "smooth" - a stand alone ecu really unshackles the motor, allowing you to take advantage of everything your other mods have to offer.
im leaning towards Haltech since jimmysuite has a MicroTech to play with... i was looking at all the hoses attached to the Intake Manifold earlier and was just trying to figure out where everything goes to... if i do get a set of let's say Hayabusa Throttle bodies or even the 4AGE ones... is there a lot of fabricating to make it fit? what size would be ideal for the TBs?
there was a guy on here who had a ITB setup... i forgot his name!! do u remember his setup?
there was a guy on here who had a ITB setup... i forgot his name!! do u remember his setup?
flat black did it...
i have some equations somewhere for working it out..but theres plenty of places on the net that will tell you what is "ideal" for a given displacement + rpm.
Fabrication? lots. Flange, runners, flanges for the throttles, throttle cable, plenum to keep it well mannered on the street, etc.... quads are pretty extreme, and to be honest, a single runner single throttle TUNED length intake manifold *may* yield better results for less money/mucking around.
You'll also need (no ifs, buts, or maybes) an aftermarket computer, and you will need to tune load via throttle position, not manifold pressure, because you'll never get a strong enough vac signal out of 4 throttles to make the thing behave itself.
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
So? Lordworm or anyone else happen to know what RPM range the AutoEXE 4-2-1 headers were tuned for?
twilightprotege
Member
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- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
i will be calculating it shortly (aka going to be modifying mine)
would the custom fabricated intake manifold look similar to the aftermarket manifolds that look like any of these? i really dont care for looks... but im just trying to picture in my head and fig out space in the engine bay
Manifold#1
Manifold#2
Manifold#3
#3 is from an older protege... the GTX... could that fit?? and what are the advantages of a manifold like #1?
and what do you feel about the EGR, LordWorm? is it okay to not have one?
Manifold#1
Manifold#2
Manifold#3
#3 is from an older protege... the GTX... could that fit?? and what are the advantages of a manifold like #1?
and what do you feel about the EGR, LordWorm? is it okay to not have one?
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
Manifold #1 looks very similar to 505zoom's
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
Something more like this? Jimmy you may want to look into this.
And only $79
And only $79
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
Well guys im sorry but im out of this. I doubt anyone realised that I was in it sort of but I went to the dark side with a new/used MSP.
Something more like this? Jimmy you may want to look into this.
And only $79
Looks just like mine. I have issues regarding using a flex-tube versus a walnut gasket... but heck, the flex-tube keeps your muffler from vibrating to bits. Good blast of torque, could have a little more up-top "oomph".
626 parts will fit.
Your head will bolt up to a 626 block - cheap replacement if you blow your engine
626 gears and gearbox will fit - though why you'd want longer gears, God knows... if it's just for lower rpms on the highway, it's okay
626 head should fit, but why you'd want an older head (and with a distributor, too, depending on the year) I don't know. Having direct ignition gives you more timing flexibility once you have a standalone or a controller that can do ignition. 626 cams aren't as good as stock, either.
626 manifold - fits, people do it all the time. Great for turbo, good for NA, up to you if it's worth the trouble. EGR must be modified.
626 V6 brakes supposedly same as MSPs.
Nothing else is interchangeable, as far as I know. The suspensions themselves are quite different.
Your head will bolt up to a 626 block - cheap replacement if you blow your engine
626 gears and gearbox will fit - though why you'd want longer gears, God knows... if it's just for lower rpms on the highway, it's okay
626 head should fit, but why you'd want an older head (and with a distributor, too, depending on the year) I don't know. Having direct ignition gives you more timing flexibility once you have a standalone or a controller that can do ignition. 626 cams aren't as good as stock, either.
626 manifold - fits, people do it all the time. Great for turbo, good for NA, up to you if it's worth the trouble. EGR must be modified.
626 V6 brakes supposedly same as MSPs.
Nothing else is interchangeable, as far as I know. The suspensions themselves are quite different.
i'm talking to a bunch of shops for grinding some cams and some intake manifold fabrication... umm... i forgot what i was going to say... crap...
*reserved post to whenever i remember what i was going to say!*
oh yea!! hey LordWorm... did you ever finish the formula for everything? i remember you had a beta out and i remember looking at it but was it ever finished? if so... i must have missed it.... i was missing for like 20 pages or so.... possible link? (o,0)
and how do you feel about EGRs???
*reserved post to whenever i remember what i was going to say!*
oh yea!! hey LordWorm... did you ever finish the formula for everything? i remember you had a beta out and i remember looking at it but was it ever finished? if so... i must have missed it.... i was missing for like 20 pages or so.... possible link? (o,0)
and how do you feel about EGRs???
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i haven't finished the sheet...all the maths in there should be right (should) except for the sidewall loading/force applied to pistons which doesn't take into account rod angularity.....
EGR? mines deleted. Twilightprotege's is deleted....
but we don't get CEL for deleting it.
Personally i think EGR is a pile of crap...why would I want to put exhaust gas back into my intake hrmmm?
EGR? mines deleted. Twilightprotege's is deleted....
but we don't get CEL for deleting it.
Personally i think EGR is a pile of crap...why would I want to put exhaust gas back into my intake hrmmm?
Ah Ha! i found it buried in My Documents from January! Perhaps maybe including it in the 1st post of this thread for easier reach/reference?
what kind of pistons do you recommend?
Would lighter/longer rods rev faster?
what material would be lighter? steel?
i remember u telling me that high compression pistons wear out pretty fast... about what comp ratio is at that stage where you have to get new ones every 3 months or a year??? i believe thats what you told me...
what kind of pistons do you recommend?
Would lighter/longer rods rev faster?
what material would be lighter? steel?
i remember u telling me that high compression pistons wear out pretty fast... about what comp ratio is at that stage where you have to get new ones every 3 months or a year??? i believe thats what you told me...
I don't recall saying higher comp pistons "wear out"...highly strung NA motors need rebuilds more often - but this is because you are stressing the engine more.
Longer rods don't "rev faster" - they allow you to support higher RPM through a reduction in piston acceleration and rod angularity (which in turn, reduces the forces applied).
Lighter materials would include things like Aluminium (but be careful, it has a tendency to stretch), and titanium (pricey). Forged steel would do the job though....
Comp ratio - i'd go as high as you can afford to go on the available fuel. 11:1 would probably be ok....much higher and you might find detonation becomes an issue - especially with longer rods. But at the end of the day it'll depend on fuel. High comp pistons open the door to crazier camshafts - but cylinder pressures and temperatures will also go up which will increase chance of knock on high amounts of timing advance.
as for what pistons i'd recommend? i'm a bit of a CP piston fan......
