my kit is ALMOST done...

mazda2002 said:
1800$ for a full kit is impressive. Can you make a list of what those parts are?

Good luck with that bolt.

I have $900 in mine. Click on the blue "Now with 9psi"
 
got a great deal from mamotorsports

used gt28r, exhaust manifold, 1st gen down pipe, oil lines and bungs, 1st gen intercooler piping, begi fmu paid like $950

got a bangin deal (from a friend) on a blitz ssbc boost controler and timer for $130

got a starion intercooler for $100 (ebay)

about $70 in couplers

got a tial 38mm for $160 NEW (this dude was putting together a kit and never got to installing it so i made an offer)

BPV from mam motorsports for $120

fm voltage clamp $100

some turbo parts $50

300$ for a radiator (cause i ****** mine up)

totals out to $1980

add on another $100 i just spent on an oil pan (i was useing an electric welding machine on the first one) that's what i get for being lazy... this new one will be welded on a plasma... (my girls dad owns a shop)

add on about $100 on fluids and bulls***

so actually about $2100

but if i hadn't ****** up the rad or the oilpan... would have been much cheaper.

now... $900 is crazy impressive!!! u da man trbo.

mazda2002 said:
1800$ for a full kit is impressive. Can you make a list of what those parts are?

Good luck with that bolt.
 
almost forgot... i'm about to get a set of RC 550cc injectors for 50 bucks!!!

alot of friends are giving me awesome deals... i guess they just want to welcome another person to the dark side... (headbang)

are our injectors low impedence high impedence?

-pedro
 
accuser said:
so what does the turbo module do?

-pedro

(by the way... i'm still struggling with that bolt...)
it's the top left hand side bold on the exhaust manifold... (so it's hard to get to) and tips are appreciated.
The TM that comes with the MPI makes the ECU go into open loop sooner and makes the ECU dump some more fuel by making it think things are colder than they are. It taps into the coolant and AIT sensors and changes the voltages the ECU see's. This happens when you set it to happen, and when it does, you have to trim a lot of fuel back since it's dumping so much. This is how Nick is able to let you boost 8-10psi with stock injectors only!
 
ok... i was up untill 4:30 am last night (it was 8 am and i was already at work) i'm a freakin zombie when it comes to my car...

couldn't get the freakin bolt out... broke a bolt extractor in the process... my next step its to take it to my girl's dad's shop to heat that b**** up with a torch or something... see if i can loosen it... he is the man... if anyone can get it out... it's him...

for now...
the car boosts good... so far at stock levels... (not sure if it's stock waste gate level or boost controller level... i haven't turned up the boost)

found two problems... the mam manifold i have didn't really match up 100% with the wastegate / downpipe... so this, in turn, lead me to having an exhaust leak where the waste gate meets the manifold... i will fix it this weekend... i'm not driving the car yet... so i'm not too worried.

another issue... i'm running lean as hell... (or maybe my gauge is off... since it's not hooked up to a wideband o2) no ECU codes yet (not egr... not cyl 1 running lean ... nothin)... had the car running for about a half hour trying to tune... (until i got super tired and it was time to go to bed.) i'm not too sure how to tune the begi... (or if it's even working properly) maybe my FM voltage clamp is bad? i know they are adjustable...

can anyone offer me any advice on how to tune the begi rrfpr and the FM voltage clamp? gonna give it another round of tuneing on monday... i'm too tired / weak to do much to my car this weekend. asside from fixing the exhaust leak i'm gonna take it slow this weekend...

thanks in advance,
-pedro
 
*start the car,
*pull off the vacuum line to the begi.
*Then use the top screw to set the base pressure. I have mine at 45psi. this is what presure you will have when the car goes from vac to boost. at 0 psi basically
*turn off car and reconnect vac tube
*Tighten the small set screw in pretty much all the way. You will run rich, wich is better. then you just have to drive it and slowly adjust it out to where it is about stooch to rich. I cannot tell you how many turns that ended up being, but just do it like a half turn at a time. You'll get it.

If you grab your throttle linkage with the car running, and rev it up, you'l see the fuel pressure gauge jump up with the throttle. Then you know its working.
 
accuser said:
the mam manifold i have didn't really match up 100% with the wastegate / downpipe... so this, in turn, lead me to having an exhaust leak where the waste gate meets the manifold... i-pedro
On the first gen manifolds you had to run a wastegate gasket between the manifold and WG.Do you have one in there? Our 2nd Gen manifolds and DP's are machined so that gaskets are not used anymore.
 
Last edited:
accuser said:
almost forgot... i'm about to get a set of RC 550cc injectors for 50 bucks!!!

alot of friends are giving me awesome deals... i guess they just want to welcome another person to the dark side... (headbang)

are our injectors low impedence high impedence?

-pedro
thier high thier like 15.8 so theyll run almost any injector low or high.

and for tunning trbop5 got it down for ya.
 
accuser said:
ok... i was up untill 4:30 am last night (it was 8 am and i was already at work) i'm a freakin zombie when it comes to my car...

couldn't get the freakin bolt out... broke a bolt extractor in the process... my next step its to take it to my girl's dad's shop to heat that b**** up with a torch or something... see if i can loosen it... he is the man... if anyone can get it out... it's him...

for now...
the car boosts good... so far at stock levels... (not sure if it's stock waste gate level or boost controller level... i haven't turned up the boost)

found two problems... the mam manifold i have didn't really match up 100% with the wastegate / downpipe... so this, in turn, lead me to having an exhaust leak where the waste gate meets the manifold... i will fix it this weekend... i'm not driving the car yet... so i'm not too worried.

another issue... i'm running lean as hell... (or maybe my gauge is off... since it's not hooked up to a wideband o2) no ECU codes yet (not egr... not cyl 1 running lean ... nothin)... had the car running for about a half hour trying to tune... (until i got super tired and it was time to go to bed.) i'm not too sure how to tune the begi... (or if it's even working properly) maybe my FM voltage clamp is bad? i know they are adjustable...

can anyone offer me any advice on how to tune the begi rrfpr and the FM voltage clamp? gonna give it another round of tuneing on monday... i'm too tired / weak to do much to my car this weekend. asside from fixing the exhaust leak i'm gonna take it slow this weekend...

thanks in advance,
-pedro

Holy Crap, I remember when I was problem solving like this, but I never had this many variables to deal with. Don't punch the gas if the A/F goes lean, more than likely it's a proper reading and you could pop your motor until it's fixed. Be Paitient Man.
 
yup yup... got all the gaskets...

don't get me wrong... i'm not flaming... i think the manifold... downpipe... and everything else i bought from you was in greate shape... and i highly recomend buying from beau... great retailer... even greater support for his products... just had a few issues that i solved already... (smoke) know what i mean... (smoke)

well... tonight i'm going to fix the exhaust leak... and i'm going to try to get my hands on a fuel pressure gauge so i can acurately tune the fuel pressure... if i can't find one... i'm giving trbo a ring... and i guess i'll have to save the tuneing for another day (when i get his gauge in)

ALMOST DRIVEABLE BABY!!!!
anyone know where i can buy the fitting for the water jacket on the gt28r? i'm not going to actually drive the car without it being in use. (taking the advice of brian)

also... please give me some tips on driving a boosted car... i'm so used to the beatings an NA car can take... and i understand that a boosted car is a little more delicate. no engine braking... no hardcore downshifting? blah blah blah (i'm known for blowing tranny's on rentals... hehehe) although i am alot more careful when it comes to my car.

Thanks guys for your help,
-pedro


MAMotorsports said:
On the first gen manifolds you had to run a wastegate gasket between the manifold and WG.Do you have one in there? Our 2nd Gen manifolds and DP's are machined so that gaskets are not used anymore.
 
yo quick question... (just out of curiousity...)

i don't understand how you hooked up the begi unit on the passenger side... i don't see any fuel lines their... unless you just ran mad hose... (or maybe a jedi secret)... i know i hooked mine up properly it's on the fuel send line before the fuel rail... (that's how i've always done it on a honda)

-pedro(smoke)

trbomp5 said:
a better spot for your Begi is in the pic below. Looks almost stock in my pic. Also if you like the fuel pressure gauge in the pic, click on my link in my sig.
 
[font=Arial,Helvetica]Banjo fitting kit for coolant connections on GT25R/GT28R/GT30R/GT35R Turbochargers. 14mm banjo to 3/8" Barb - Easy pushlock style barb end on banjo.

Comes with:

[/font]

  • [font=Arial,Helvetica]14mm banjo fitting[/font]
  • [font=Arial,Helvetica]1 banjo[/font]
  • [font=Arial,Helvetica]2 copper washers
  • [/font]
I would say so....

*edit* you'll need two of them dont forget. (thumb)
 
kewl...
it's always good to get a second opinion.

these guys (www.atpturbo.com) are great... get you what you need... fast...

-pedro

RyanJayG said:
[/size][/font]
[/list]I would say so....

*edit* you'll need two of them dont forget. (thumb)
 
I had a similer problem when I was doing my turbo in my BP-ZE. I was tightening the banjo bolt for oil supply off the block, little bugger snapped off and there was no way getting it out. Broke an extractor trying to get it out, so i took it to a shop, cost my 80 bucks, but they got it out. The thign was in the tightest spot I have seen on an engine, sucked but I got out. Good luck with the rest of the turboing.
 
accuser said:
yo quick question... (just out of curiousity...)

i don't understand how you hooked up the begi unit on the passenger side... i don't see any fuel lines their... unless you just ran mad hose... (or maybe a jedi secret)... i know i hooked mine up properly it's on the fuel send line before the fuel rail... (that's how i've always done it on a honda)

-pedro(smoke)

That is completely wrong. It is supposed to be after the fuel rail, on the return line to the tank. That way your stock reg does what is supposed to normally, then the begi pinches off on the return line to give the injectors more pressure. I will take pics of my fuel lines. It looks very clean and stock like.
 
Last edited:
i'm not questioning your knowledge... but can anyone else chime in and give an opinion... i'm just curious if this is true... two opinions are better then one... is this actually wrong??? i've installed fprs on the fuel send line before... maybe i should jsut get beau's fuel rail and get rid of my stoc regulator once and for all... hehehe... but still people... chime in.. let me know... i'm not too familiar with the protege's fuel system... (although it is very similar to a honda)

-pedro


trbomp5 said:
that is completely wrong. It is supposed to be after the fuel rail, on the return line to the tank. that way your stck reg does waht is supposed to normally, then the begi piches off on the return line to give the injectors more pressure. I will take pics of my fuel lines. It looks very clean and stock like.
 
The BEGI is suppose to be used with a regulator.

The BEGI goes after the rail.Return line off the rail to BEGI, then return line off BEGI to return on the firewall.
 
Back