motor build?

[mazdaspeedp]

Where's your oil cooler? Do NOT run without one.

I thought you said the factory one would be fine?

 

[mazdaspeedp]

U think mopac would sell one that works?

 

[2.0t03speed]

I thought you said the factory one would be fine?

you currently don't have the stock cooler installed. Your oil filter relocation plate is normally where the stock cooler would be.

 

[mazdaspeedp]

you currently don't have the stock cooler installed. Your oil filter relocation plate is normally where the stock cooler would be.

Oh ok so by running the relocation kit it eliminates the stock one? I guess ill be getting one asap than

 

[Alamo1]

Should be able to run both the cooler and the relocate kit.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

You are missing your stock cooler. That's what I was getting at.

I run the MSP cooler with my relocation kit no problem. Is that what you texted me about "hooking up the coolant line to the oil" earlier? The one coolant line in your pic goes to the cooler, the other side attaches to the nipple shown in the same pic.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

If those lines are too long, take the ends off and trim them down, then reinstall the ends.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

are you running a jands safeguard with ur setup?

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

So i just found out im gonna have to order a main bearing support plate.

I have a spare

 

[mazdaspeedp]

No do u think ill need one forsure? And i allready ended up getting a plate too bad i dident know earlier. Thanks though

 

[mazdaspeedp]

So i think im gonna end up running the factory and an aircooled oil cooler if there is enough room in the engine bay.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

I run Neither..

Maxx is a Drama Queen


I keep my engine at 90 Degrees Coolant, and the oil stays below 95 Degrees unless I absolutely hammer the gas for five minutes in the twisties... then it gets to 107 Degrees C.

Two minutes later, it is back to 96

EDIT: I am not saying that it isn't important or that it isnt a good idea...

I am saying that a simple Oil Cooler Panel almost anywhere under the hood will suffice..

 

[mazdaspeedp]

God damnit so my steedspeed manifold wont work with my turbo im gonna have to get a custom one made

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Why,

Is it because it is a T25 Flange?

I was able to get a dealer who stocked... T25 Flange for almost any GT28, GT30 on the market.

 

[Cleverfrog]

God damnit so my steedspeed manifold wont work with my turbo im gonna have to get a custom one made

cut it off and weld on the right one

 

[RicoP5]

cut it off and weld on the right one

thiss

 

[mazdaspeedp]

cut it off and weld on the right one

I wish it was as simple as cutting it off and welding on the "right one" the wastegate hits the block the jpipe hits the awr oil pan and the turbo coolant line hits the manifold. Ill post some pictures.

 

[mazdaspeedp]

picture time lol New engine mounts

Anyone know if this coolant line is included with the samco kits for msp? i might have to just order this from mazda

Heres where is starts to get sketchy lol

Wastegate hitting the block

Coolant line hitting the manifold

Another coolant line in the way i think this one can be welded not to much of a problem

This is how it looks so far.

Might have to cut the jpipe too its hitting the awr oil pan.

Theres the haltech shop says 8hours to wire it in properly.

 

[Alamo1]

Dude. You need to bolt the turbo on to see exactly what needs to be moved.

1) you will need a straight water neck coming from the thermostat housing
2) for the water line on the turbo, the center housing can be rotated up to 20 degrees off axis from the oil drain pointing straight down so that should give you enough clearance.
3) the compressor housing will need to be rotated so that the actuator does not hit the block
4) exhaust will have to be the last thing. Cut it and re route it to fit AFTER everything else is BOLTED on.
5) good luck with 8 hours. I've done other wiring before and my microtech took double that.

Best suggestion though is to be patient. Don't give up or get too frustrated. Not one thing on your car is a stock part so you're bound to have to check, fabricate and re check a few times with each part.

Your pics are good and more people on here want to see your car done than just you and we're here to help. Atleast I am. I know your pain cuz I just finished doing all this in the last year.

 

[Cleverfrog]

Dude. You need to bolt the turbo on to see exactly what needs to be moved.

1) you will need a straight water neck coming from the thermostat housing
2) for the water line on the turbo, the center housing can be rotated up to 20 degrees off axis from the oil drain pointing straight down so that should give you enough clearance.
3) the compressor housing will need to be rotated so that the actuator does not hit the block
4) exhaust will have to be the last thing. Cut it and re route it to fit AFTER everything else is BOLTED on.
5) good luck with 8 hours. I've done other wiring before and my microtech took double that.

Best suggestion though is to be patient. Don't give up or get too frustrated. Not one thing on your car is a stock part so you're bound to have to check, fabricate and re check a few times with each part.

Your pics are good and more people on here want to see your car done than just you and we're here to help. Atleast I am. I know your pain cuz I just finished doing all this in the last year.

This. And it really is as simple as welding the right one on if you've got the skillz