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- 2003.5 Laser Blue MSP
Pm kicker22705. he is now running 565 sti injectors, but was running the 440's for a while.
Microtech Library
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
Pm kicker22705. he is now running 565 sti injectors, but was running the 440's for a while.
I think I'm having troubles with pump 1 settings... it'll start and die frequently. Also when coasting (like neutral, low rpm) it will die. Tips on messing with the settings?
I've got the Walbro intank pump now, along with the WRX 440cc injectors.
If it's dying in neutral/low rpm's check what your timing is at those levels. If it is at 15 bump it up to about 17 and that'll help hold that a little better.
Pump 1 wont' have anything to do with startup, just with throttle on at low rpm's etc. You have to watch your afr's and see if you are spiking lean or spiking rich. Basically set the "off" to be 0"hg for starts, set the pulses to be 5 and then start with the amt being 0. then work the amt up 2 points at a time to see if it gets better. If you get to 18% and it's gotten worse back down to 0 and go the other direction a little. Some cars I've seen need negative pump at low rpm's.
Hope that helps.
Pump 1 wont' have anything to do with startup, just with throttle on at low rpm's etc. You have to watch your afr's and see if you are spiking lean or spiking rich. Basically set the "off" to be 0"hg for starts, set the pulses to be 5 and then start with the amt being 0. then work the amt up 2 points at a time to see if it gets better. If you get to 18% and it's gotten worse back down to 0 and go the other direction a little. Some cars I've seen need negative pump at low rpm's.
Hope that helps.
Thanks, it appears to be doing better after messing with the pump settings. We'll see how it does the next few days--really finicky with the weather
I need to drag my butt up to your area Steve and pay you some beer and money to do a good street tune.edit: crap, the real bad shudders are back (guess I gotta pick my poison
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So how bout a base map for just starting and idle? I've got 440's and I suspect we are dumping WAY to much fuel at startup because the car will cold crank without catching for a long time. Has anyone perfected a startup map with the microtech?
Its been awhile since I messed with all of this sheit, so i don't even know where to start to remove fuel...
If anyone can help it would be much appreciated!
Or is there anyway someone can provide me with the base map included with the purchase? I bought through TurfBurn, so I guess that makes me a customer whos entitled to the map?
Its been awhile since I messed with all of this sheit, so i don't even know where to start to remove fuel...
If anyone can help it would be much appreciated!
Or is there anyway someone can provide me with the base map included with the purchase? I bought through TurfBurn, so I guess that makes me a customer whos entitled to the map?
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Allrighty... I finaly got my serial cable today... here is every relevant map in my car. I suspect there is too much fuel at startup hence why it won't fire. It will crank and crank but won't catch... After it catches its not so bad. I've also heard that retarding the timing some could help. But I don't know which maps I need to **** with to take fuel out and take timing out.
So here is everything... hows it compare to other peoples crank/start/idle maps? I'm running 440's, but even people with 550's if you could post up your values I could at least have a rough idea of where it needs to be! Thanks in advance!!!
So here is everything... hows it compare to other peoples crank/start/idle maps? I'm running 440's, but even people with 550's if you could post up your values I could at least have a rough idea of where it needs to be! Thanks in advance!!!
If you think you have too much fuel when cranking, start backing down the crank value and see if it gets better. Pay attension to the output box in the lower right-hand corner - this tells you how much fuel you're dumping when cranking.
When I run with stock injectors, the output for cold start is maxxed out at 12.18ms inj. pulse width, and usually it barely dumps enough fuel. With 550's I'm usually around 6-7ms, depending on ambient temperature.
It is possible you're not putting enough fuel through, but you need to start by going one direction (more or less) and see if it gets better.
Another factor is the damn idle air solenoid. I leave mine hooked up to the stock ECU and it causes some random behavior for startup and idle. I wish there were a way to be able to control ours with the Microtech, but no one seems to be able to find out how to make it work.
When I run with stock injectors, the output for cold start is maxxed out at 12.18ms inj. pulse width, and usually it barely dumps enough fuel. With 550's I'm usually around 6-7ms, depending on ambient temperature.
It is possible you're not putting enough fuel through, but you need to start by going one direction (more or less) and see if it gets better.
Another factor is the damn idle air solenoid. I leave mine hooked up to the stock ECU and it causes some random behavior for startup and idle. I wish there were a way to be able to control ours with the Microtech, but no one seems to be able to find out how to make it work.
No - not 440's. I have tuned for both stock inj. and 550's ... I believe that map if for stock injectors, but I thought I posted both maps. If not, I can.
Yea, you only posted the stock injector map. If you could post the 550 map that would be great!
Did you get your cold start down pretty good now w/the 550's?
So if I input your values on my maps for the crank, idle, etc. then I should have to go to the MIXTRIM setting on Screen 30 and add like +15% across the board to the values to compensate for the smaller injectors?
Did you get your cold start down pretty good now w/the 550's?
So if I input your values on my maps for the crank, idle, etc. then I should have to go to the MIXTRIM setting on Screen 30 and add like +15% across the board to the values to compensate for the smaller injectors?
So i've been messing with the car for the past hour. I've made O progress. Now I can't get the car to fire. It just cranks and cranks on the crank map but won't hit. I've tried adding fuel, removing fuel, the NSN correction maps, the OSU maps correction factors on the Water, Air_t, t_water, t_air, and crank maps and had no luck whatsoever.
Smells like gas... Is it possible the plugs are fouled? Does anyone have the "base" map you were given as a starting place to get your car started?
Also - looking back as the various maps... there are HUGE discrepency between values on the crank maps (and most other maps)... some people are running like -05% @ 11C, while OSU's correction maps are at 69% at the same temp level. What gives? Both are for stock injectors, so how can one person be running -5%, and the other at 69%? WTF?
Smells like gas... Is it possible the plugs are fouled? Does anyone have the "base" map you were given as a starting place to get your car started?
Also - looking back as the various maps... there are HUGE discrepency between values on the crank maps (and most other maps)... some people are running like -05% @ 11C, while OSU's correction maps are at 69% at the same temp level. What gives? Both are for stock injectors, so how can one person be running -5%, and the other at 69%? WTF?
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Your crank value should be high ... it takes a good amount of fuel while cranking. I was looking over the curves you posted up ... take a look at your t_wat map. Looks like you're adding 20 degrees timing when the engine is cold. This seems like a TON of timing advance when cranking - kinda depends on what your other timing correction factors are, but if you have 12 deg. at 500rpm, and add timing for air temp, and add 20 deg. timing for cold water temp, you could have 35 or more degrees timing advance while cranking. If that is the case, that would be way too much.
Try and set your timmax value to say 15 degrees and see if it does any better. This will limit your timing advance to no more than 15 - and that seems to be a good timing adv. for startup with my setup.
If you think there's too much fuel, pull a plug right after cranking a few times and see if they are soaked in gas. But pay attention to the timing output window on your Microtech software while cranking and see what it says.
Try and set your timmax value to say 15 degrees and see if it does any better. This will limit your timing advance to no more than 15 - and that seems to be a good timing adv. for startup with my setup.
If you think there's too much fuel, pull a plug right after cranking a few times and see if they are soaked in gas. But pay attention to the timing output window on your Microtech software while cranking and see what it says.
ya, adjust the crank map, you may also want to lower your fuel trim a little bit too. i've had to start my car lots in freezing temps so far this fall. it never fires up instantly when cold but never takes more than 2 sec of cranking or 2 quick cranks to fire up. i've got stock injectors so i don't think my maps will help you much though. just be persistant and your get it to start reliably.
Yea, thats why i didn't want to mess with the mixtrim... Nice way for me to go start detonating all over the place. Once its running its fine...
I'll take some fuel out of the crank map. So when i'm cranking it I should be watching the readout for the ms value? Didn't know that. Pretty sure its hitting like 8.67% or something now.... So less fuel on the crank map, less readout on the ms value? Thanks for the help guys. I'll report back.
The 'ms' value is not a percentage ... it's a time (milliseconds). It's the injector pulse width (the duration of time which your injectors are spraying fuel). So the higher that number, the longer the duration, and thus more fuel. 8.67ms might be kinda high for 440's. For cold mornings, I'm running around 8-10ms for stock injectors. You might be aroud 50% too high on fuel.
Also, keep an eye on your timing as I mentioned earlier.
