Mazda5, Warranty Related Fixes

Oh Oh, and I forgot, performed the ECU update on one of the maintenance trips, did not stall in 2nd but it was a hesitant accel while cold. It's not better than the 08 but it improved after it....

Nothing else :rolleyes:
 
Going in tomorrow for a warranty replacement of an intake shutter valve that has been causing the MIL (CEL) to go on intermittently for the last week or so. When they hooked up the computer, the stored code they pulled was P2006 (Variable Tumble Shutter Valve Stuck Open/Closed). According to the service advisor, this is a valve that opens and closes air flow to allow one of two intake headers to be used depending on rpm and temperature. There is a tall and short header and the computer decides which to use based on fuel efficiency and performance. I have done a search, and it seems there is a TSB on this somewhere. I have not noticed any degradation of performance, and they said the worst case would be a decrease in fuel economy. It does seem to be related to the stretch of weather in the single and minus digits in the last week or so, if I let the car warm up for a good while before driving, it doesn't seem to happen. Not too concerned, this service dept. is top notch.
 
Going in tomorrow for a warranty replacement of an intake shutter valve that has been causing the MIL (CEL) to go on intermittently for the last week or so. When they hooked up the computer, the stored code they pulled was P2006 (Variable Tumble Shutter Valve Stuck Open/Closed). According to the service advisor, this is a valve that opens and closes air flow to allow one of two intake headers to be used depending on rpm and temperature. There is a tall and short header and the computer decides which to use based on fuel efficiency and performance. I have done a search, and it seems there is a TSB on this somewhere. I have not noticed any degradation of performance, and they said the worst case would be a decrease in fuel economy. It does seem to be related to the stretch of weather in the single and minus digits in the last week or so, if I let the car warm up for a good while before driving, it doesn't seem to happen. Not too concerned, this service dept. is top notch.

My CEL came on Monday morning right after I left the house for work. It cleared after I drove ~20 miles or so. Temps have been in the low to mid 20's. It came on again today but didn't clear after 20 miles. Anyone have an idea the number of miles it takes for the code to clear?

I searched Edmunds and found a TSB on my 09 for P2004 which looks similar to P2006. After looking around the site this Valve Stuck Open/Closed seems to be a common occurrence with the 2.2L engine. I'm planning on taking it in to the dealer tomorrow.
 
Definitely related to cold temp, since the MIL/CEL code is for the valve that opens as a function of temperature. Went in for that repair as scheduled, but the part they were shipped was the same as the one that I had already, turns out that there is yet a *third* version, which I am supposed to be getting installed tomorrow, will report back. There was also talk of one car that they needed to replace the actual intake header on in order to resolve the problem, which the tech explained is a plastic-against-metal binding situation between the valve and the intake.

You will find that the issue goes away as soon as the car is warmed up sufficiently, and you can force the MIL/CEL to go out when it is warm by simply re-starting the car 4 more times after it has warmed up. That will clear the light, but the code stays stored.
 
Definitely related to cold temp, since the MIL/CEL code is for the valve that opens as a function of temperature. Went in for that repair as scheduled, but the part they were shipped was the same as the one that I had already, turns out that there is yet a *third* version, which I am supposed to be getting installed tomorrow, will report back. There was also talk of one car that they needed to replace the actual intake header on in order to resolve the problem, which the tech explained is a plastic-against-metal binding situation between the valve and the intake.

You will find that the issue goes away as soon as the car is warmed up sufficiently, and you can force the MIL/CEL to go out when it is warm by simply re-starting the car 4 more times after it has warmed up. That will clear the light, but the code stays stored.

Thanks. Please report back. My dealership told me today that it will have to code one more time before they initiate a repair. The troubling part is that they did not mention the first repair you mention. Service guy told me about replacing the intake header, etc. as the only fix. I'll let them know whatever you report back as a fix.

I will admit I am not a big fan of this dealer. My closest dealer closed last year and this one is next (distance wise). My third option is about 30-40 minutes away which makes scheduling repairs a real pain. Thanks again.
 
New version of valve swapped out yesterday. Service mgr. is keeping my ticket open for now until we're sure the MIL stays off, so I don't have a copy to provide part number, procedure, etc. If it doesn't code again, they will mail me the completed RO. Have driven it three times today, no MIL. But, the temps have been around 32 F., not as cold as they were when the issue first arose. Stay tuned...

Thanks. Please report back. My dealership told me today that it will have to code one more time before they initiate a repair. The troubling part is that they did not mention the first repair you mention. Service guy told me about replacing the intake header, etc. as the only fix. I'll let them know whatever you report back as a fix.

I will admit I am not a big fan of this dealer. My closest dealer closed last year and this one is next (distance wise).

Too bad about your dealer, sounds like these guys are hosers if they need the code multiple times to initiate the repair. One of the reasons I chose this dealer to buy my new 5 is that their shop is excellent. I had them do some work on another of my non-Mazda vehicles to evaluate. They were a well-known repair shop before they started selling cars, so that's a plus in my book.
 
Spoke too soon. MIL went on again today in 28 weather, will be bringing it in again to confirm the need for a new intake manifold. At least they have been through this drill on one other car, so they know what to do now. Will post outcome when it occurs.
 
Follow-up: Intake manifold assembly replaced yesterday under warranty. So far so good, have driven 100 miles with three cold starts, no issues.
 
2008 Mazda 5 Sport. 27000 miles.
Cylinder's head - how about that?
It started with temperature gauge going up and I headed to the dealership right away.
The first intention was to change the thermostat, but I did not want to rush them and left the car overnight.
Next morning I received a phone call that they are going to contact Mazda to get the permission to change water pump as well since there is no circulation.
Then, next day I got a phone call, that I may go to Enterprise and get the car, Mazda is going to pay for. And they will make to full circle investigation, because they got the order form Mazda to check everything. In couple of days I received a message that they checked the gasket and cylinder head and everything was fine.

However, Mazda wants to get all parts from my car and they want to change cylinder head, gasket etc., meaning they do not know exactly what was the cause.

My 5 still in the shop, (9 days already) and I hope to get some investigation result before i will get it fixed.

I will keep you all posted.
 
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Well, I've been pretty disappointed with the realiability with our 06 Mazda5 Touring. Here is my list of issues to date:

-Replaced bad ignition coil after only 3300 miles. (warranty)
-Sliding door latch replacement. (recall)
-Engine mount replacement due to leaking fluid. (warranty)
-Noisy front suspension. Replaced bushings and lower control arms. (TSB-warranty)
-Auto trans shifter-unable to take out of park. Intermittent issue. Still have to bring to dealer.

This vehicle has 44,000 miles on it. I know this is a first year vehicle, but I expected more from Mazda.
 
This has to be the weakest list of complaints I have ever seen.... But I used to own American crap and Saabs. (evil)
 
This has to be the weakest list of complaints I have ever seen.... But I used to own American crap and Saabs. (evil)
No wonder. This has been the most unreliable vehicle I have ever owned. My 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse would come in a close 2nd.
 
(1) A/C belt
(2) stabilizer bar bushings, front and rear
(3) left rear shock
(4) right rear power lock actuator
(5) clutch slave cylinder

After ten years of a largely trouble free, first model year Protege - the only things ever replaced were three power lock actuators - this list really surprises me. But the really irritating thing is each of the above problems took 2 to 3 visits each to diagnose and fix. The only saving grace is that everything was fixed under warranty, but that's about to go away.

Except for the clutch - I cannot find another posting of a similar failure - I have read about all of the problems on this forum, which I am thankful for. The engine is fine, the car drives straight, and the utility remains amazing. But there is no doubt that this is by far the most unreliable car that I have ever owned. I'm convinced the car was underdeveloped when it was released.
 
But there is no doubt that this is by far the most unreliable car that I have ever owned. I'm convinced the car was underdeveloped when it was released.

Typical 1st year troubles. The Protege seemed to be more carryover from the 323 than this is from the Premacy. Seems they could have spent a little more time on the items that were different from the 3, like the suspension, but oh well. I feel they have addressed everything considerably better than many other automakers would, so I am fine with the work I have had done. My wife is a little urked tho. She is sick of dropping the 5 off every few months for an overnighter at the dealer, even if it is FREE, but I want EVERYTHING addressed now so it won't pop up later when the warranty expires.

Here's my probably incomplete list:

both rear door actuators, both inside locks (previous owner's kids probably were too rough, they came broken)
A/C compressor
rear bushings, tho I think they were actually OK, I just saw the TSB here
tailgate visor crack
belt whine - told it was nothing , although it appeared the same time the battery went south (on battery #3 now, mind you, in <4 yrs (wow) )
Now I am getting a bigger whine - like a bad pulley - the car goes back soon so I can get it addressed in full b4 the warranty expires in April.
 
Well, I've been pretty disappointed with the realiability with our 06 Mazda5 Touring. Here is my list of issues to date:

-Replaced bad ignition coil after only 3300 miles. (warranty)
-Sliding door latch replacement. (recall)
-Engine mount replacement due to leaking fluid. (warranty)
-Noisy front suspension. Replaced bushings and lower control arms. (TSB-warranty)
-Auto trans shifter-unable to take out of park. Intermittent issue. Still have to bring to dealer.

This vehicle has 44,000 miles on it. I know this is a first year vehicle, but I expected more from Mazda.

I hear you.

On my 2007 Mazda 5 my major non warranty repairs have been:
- Sunroof glass explode unexpectedly
- Clutch exploded at 54,000 miles
- Engine failed at 62,000 miles

This doesn't include the repairs done under warranty. I've had 15+ cars and this one is by far the least reliable I've had. My Mercedes costs me less than the Mazda
 
Well, I have an appt today to check out the transmission. Solenoid must of totally gave out. I have to use manual override every time to take out of Park. Just yesterday, I got a CEL. Great. So that is another thing for the dealer to check out. My warranty is up in about 3 months. If this keeps up, I'm going to seriously have to think about trading it in for something else. My wife drives this vehicle and I don't feel comfortable with her driving it, especially with the kids.
 
Well, looks like parts have to be ordered. Another problem found while at dealer. Brakes lights inop. Switch has to be ordered and will take a couple of days. My wife is now in a rental for the next couple of days.
 
I have a mazda 5 sport 2007, 45000 miles on it, and 2 weeks ago same problem as you Silverm5, warranty expires first week of january, and now I'm dealing with the extended warranty, went to the dealer car has to stay, for 2 days while they order the parts and they "replaced " the shifter assembly, works good the first day, secon day same problem, I called the dealer today and they told me I have to bring the car and is gonna take a day at least, pretty shure is the sensor and the brake pedal and wasn't the shifter assembly, but who knows, I don't trust to much in dealers..
 
I have a mazda 5 sport 2007, 45000 miles on it, and 2 weeks ago same problem as you Silverm5, warranty expires first week of january, and now I'm dealing with the extended warranty, went to the dealer car has to stay, for 2 days while they order the parts and they "replaced " the shifter assembly, works good the first day, secon day same problem, I called the dealer today and they told me I have to bring the car and is gonna take a day at least, pretty shure is the sensor and the brake pedal and wasn't the shifter assembly, but who knows, I don't trust to much in dealers..

Churrosurf, where did you get the extended warranty, the dealer? I just received a letter from the dealer where I purchased my vehicle, offering an extended warranty. I'm starting to think it may be worth it.
 
IT was at he time I bought the car, they told me about this extended warranty, that covers almost everything and only has to pay 50$ deductible, they included this on the final price of the car it was 1563$ , expires at 75000 miles.My car actually has 45000 and reading all this stuff I think I' gonna renew this warranty after the 75000. THe name of the company is United Autocare, but they change the name to The Warranty Group.
 

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