Mazda Air Filter - OEM versus Aftermarket

[madar]

I've been meaning to change my air filter for a while now, I have 22k miles on my second Mazda air filter and the clean side was starting to get black spots so I figured today was the day. Ive always bought OEM air & oil filters for the past 4 new vehicles I bought. I found the quality and price were comparable to aftermarkets if not better. Today I missed the Mazda dealership being open so I decided to stop by an Advanced Auto and get a Purolator as theyve always been a favorite brand in the past. I took the old filter out and as I took the Purolator out of the box I noticed the rubber around the edges felt flimsy compared to the Mazda filter which felt more solidly built. Upon further notice I saw that the rubber around the edges wasnt even part of the filter, it was sort of a flimsy rubber gasket attached to it. Looks like aftermarket-same-as really isnt. Ive no reason to believe itll filter any differently, but from now on its strictly OEM for a mere 3 bucks more.

 

[MikeM.]

The OEM Mazda air filter is the best I have ever seen. Not only does it filter small abrasive dust out really well (judging by the perfect cleanliness of my intake tract after 25,000 miles) but it takes a long time for the filter media to become even a little bit restricted. That's why the service interval is 35,000 miles. And what you noted - the construction is top notch.

With the very reasonable price and long life, there simply isn't any reason to use anything else.

 

[Buzzer777]

Purolator filters...

I’ve been meaning to change my air filter for a while now, I have 22k miles on my second Mazda air filter and the “clean” side was starting to get black spots so I figured today was the day. I’ve always bought OEM air & oil filters for the past 4 new vehicles I bought. I found the quality and price were comparable to aftermarkets if not better. Today I missed the Mazda dealership being open so I decided to stop by an Advanced Auto and get a Purolator as they’ve always been a favorite brand in the past. I took the old filter out and as I took the Purolator out of the box I noticed the rubber around the edges felt flimsy compared to the Mazda filter which felt more solidly built. Upon further notice I saw that the rubber around the edges wasn’t even part of the filter, it was sort of a flimsy rubber gasket attached to it. Looks like aftermarket-same-as really isn’t. I’ve no reason to believe it’ll filter any differently, but from now on it’s strictly OEM for a mere 3 bucks more. View attachment 212699View attachment 212700View attachment 212701

Over the years Purolator filters (at least oil + Air) have declined in quality. I think I read that they were bought out a few years ago. I cut a Purolator oil filter in half and was disappointed in the quality of the parts inside (back flow preventer, and filter material in particular)

As MikeM said, for the Price, you can't beat the oem air filter! I have also had decent luck with the WIX filters in general. I have been using the Wix 24103 Cabin air filter. Tried a WIX engine air filter once, and while decent, felt better with the OEM!

 

[erhayes]

I agree. OEM is the way to go. Dealer cost is high so find a different source. ed

 

[yrwei52]

I now use only OEM parts including those filters and even the Mazda moly oil. I feel OEM parts give us minimum risk screwing things up when I'm doing the install. And OEM parts normally have better and more consistent quality. My time is more valuable than the money saved with those after-market parts.

 

[Keno1542]

I do agree that you will usually have no problems with oem parts, and will usually go oem if the price difference isn't too large. But the main issue I think is most people will compare the cheapest after market parts with oem parts. High quality after market parts are usually just as good as oem, in fact a lot of oem parts are made by the huge aftermarket companies and put in oem packages. ie. Bando makes Mazda belts, Exedy makes Mazda Clutches, Brembo makes Porsche Brake pads and Rotors and there are many more examples. The point I am making is a High Quality aftermarket part will meet or exceed OEM parts.

 

[Buzzer777]

High Quality = Made to spec...

I do agree that you will usually have no problems with oem parts, and will usually go oem if the price difference isn't too large. But the main issue I think is most people will compare the cheapest after market parts with oem parts. High quality after market parts are usually just as good as oem, in fact a lot of oem parts are made by the huge aftermarket companies and put in oem packages. ie. Bando makes Mazda belts, Exedy makes Mazda Clutches, Brembo makes Porsche Brake pads and Rotors and there are many more examples. The point I am making is a High Quality aftermarket part will meet or exceed OEM parts.

I believe that many companies and their engineering staff, provide these 3rd party manufacturers the spec that they must make these parts to, if they are to be formally used as a supplier. A pretty good example of this is probably Mazda Oil. There was a large thread here where the merits of Mazda Moly were widely discussed, with the supplier of this oil being identified.

In so far as things like oil filters, sadly most after market filters are simply made as inexpensively as is possible, with little attention being paid to quality!

I used to have my oil changes done at an inexpensive 3rd party shop, where their oil filter was "FOR" the vehicle but not approved by the car maker. I had to worry about both the quality of the labor AND filter quality! Of course the shop would not let you bring your own filter EVEN IF YOU OFFERED TO PAY THEM FOR THEIRS ANYWAY! Something about their warranty...bleh. BTW: I did have a look at a used filter, (cut it in half) and it did not even have a label. The parts appeared as good as other after market filters. The company was Tires Plus, and I guess they were a large enough chain to have things made for them. (no label, same color, same internal parts and filter material from one yr to the next)etc)

With the CX-5, I take it to the Mazda dealer, an oem Mazda Filter is always used. They charge a fortune for MOLY, so I use what they have contracted for: at present they use Mobile One, which I am ok with.

 

[MikeM.]

High quality after market parts are usually just as good as oem, in fact a lot of oem parts are made by the huge aftermarket companies and put in oem packages. ie. Bando makes Mazda belts, Exedy makes Mazda Clutches, Brembo makes Porsche Brake pads and Rotors and there are many more examples. The point I am making is a High Quality aftermarket part will meet or exceed OEM parts.

OK then, name one aftermarket CX-5 air filter that is better than (or equal to) the OEM Mazda CX-5 air filter!

 

[xtasy]

I bought the aem panel filter for my car. I am the type that doesnt care about filtration. As long the filter keeps rocks or anything big from entering the engine. I'm okay with it.

As far as aem filter goes. The gas mileage went up by 2mpg. The intake suction noise is noticeably louder at wide open throttle. The only reason i went with aem is because it's a dry flow filter. Don't have to deal with oiling the filter every wash.

 

[wbw]

Those filters that pass more air also pass more dirt particles. But you seem to be aware of that and are OK with it, so no worries.

 

[Keno1542]

I believe that many companies and their engineering staff, provide these 3rd party manufacturers the spec that they must make these parts to, if they are to be formally used as a supplier. A pretty good example of this is probably Mazda Oil. There was a large thread here where the merits of Mazda Moly were widely discussed, with the supplier of this oil being identified.

In so far as things like oil filters, sadly most after market filters are simply made as inexpensively as is possible, with little attention being paid to quality!

I used to have my oil changes done at an inexpensive 3rd party shop, where their oil filter was "FOR" the vehicle but not approved by the car maker. I had to worry about both the quality of the labor AND filter quality! Of course the shop would not let you bring your own filter EVEN IF YOU OFFERED TO PAY THEM FOR THEIRS ANYWAY! Something about their warranty...bleh. BTW: I did have a look at a used filter, (cut it in half) and it did not even have a label. The parts appeared as good as other after market filters. The company was Tires Plus, and I guess they were a large enough chain to have things made for them. (no label, same color, same internal parts and filter material from one yr to the next)etc)

With the CX-5, I take it to the Mazda dealer, an oem Mazda Filter is always used. They charge a fortune for MOLY, so I use what they have contracted for: at present they use Mobile One, which I am ok with.

The 3rd party will usually use those same specs to make their aftermarket parts, may change a thing or two just to make it 'different' but they are usually very similar. Why re-engineer something if you already have the specs?

I am not too familiar with the Moly Oil thing, so won't comment on that.

OK then, name one aftermarket CX-5 air filter that is better than (or equal to) the OEM Mazda CX-5 air filter!

I can't comment on this either, because I don't know enough about it, but I bet if you find the manufacturer of the OEM air filter their aftermarket filter will be just as good.

While I understand we are all car nuts and very particular about the quality of parts we use on our vehicles(I am no different), there are millions of vehicles on the road running these lower quality air and oil filters that are just fine...just something to consider when bashing these large scale manufacturers.

Another thing to look into if anyone is interested is the site Bobistheoilguy, there is a ton of info on there about oil and air filters(way more than I care to know). There have been a few threads on that site about the decline in quality of the OEM filters as well, accompanied with plenty of pictures of the cut open oil filters.

 

[erhayes]

In addition: The computer adjusts the fuel air ratio so getting filters with larger pore sizes doesn't equal better gas mileage or more horse power but, does let more dirt in which means more cylinder wear. Ed

 

[madar]

The OEM Mazda air filter is the best I have ever seen. Not only does it filter small abrasive dust out really well (judging by the perfect cleanliness of my intake tract after 25,000 miles) but it takes a long time for the filter media to become even a little bit restricted. That's why the service interval is 35,000 miles. And what you noted - the construction is top notch.

With the very reasonable price and long life, there simply isn't any reason to use anything else.

Noticed that, also. After 44k miles the upper part of the air filter chamber was like new inside, no dust or residue of any kind. Filter really does it's job!

 

[MikeM.]

I am the type that doesnt care about filtration. As long the filter keeps rocks or anything big from entering the engine. I'm okay with it.

That's no different from saying "I'm the kind of person that doesn't care how long my engine lasts or if it's down on power and smokes from oil leaking past the valve seals".

As far as aem filter goes. The gas mileage went up by 2mpg.

Uh, no. The OEM filter offers so little restriction, there is no way it's causing a 6% reduction in efficiency.

The only reason i went with aem is because it's a dry flow filter. Don't have to deal with oiling the filter every wash.

The OEM Mazda filter is a dry flow filter and, not only do you not need to oil it, you don't need to clean it either.

 

[Keno1542]

That's no different from saying "I'm the kind of person that doesn't care how long my engine lasts or if it's down on power and smokes from oil leaking past the valve seals".

If you plan on getting rid of the car before that point, what difference does it make? More power and fuel efficiency now, not your problem later.

Uh, no. The OEM filter offers so little restriction, there is no way it's causing a 6% reduction in efficiency.

Huh? The AEM and K&N filters have been proven many times over in various tests to have huge gains in air flow, efficiency and power over conventional papaer type oem filters, as mentioned before it is at the cost of filtration. In fact, pro racing teams won't run those types of filters at the 24 Hours of Daytona because of the sand ingestion into the engines, and then the car won't make it the entire race.

The OEM Mazda filter is a dry flow filter and, not only do you not need to oil it, you don't need to clean it either.

While I don't know too much about this filter, I suspect it is a conventional paper filter, not actually a Dry Flow, especially since it can't be cleaned...

 

[Keno1542]

In addition: The computer adjusts the fuel air ratio so getting filters with larger pore sizes doesn't equal better gas mileage or more horse power but, does let more dirt in which means more cylinder wear. Ed

This is not true, the computer can't control the air flow, only fuel delivery. So when you increase the airflow with the better flowing air filter, the computer will send in more fuel to compensate and you will get more power. More air in allows for more fuel in and results in more power.

 

[Mazda_1920]

Mazda make two type of filters one being a (DRY) The filter has paper and non-woven fabric and the other being a (WET)The type impregnated with oil to the filter paper.

IMO the OEM filter is the BEST you can buy.

 

[dergibog]

It's 2015. Almost '16. I don't believe that you can buy a popular name brand air filter now days of any type and have problems other then user error (over oiling/not cleaning/replacing).
We are in a sue happy era & its not the auto industries first rodeo. Companies can't risk reputations with the informed modern consumer or they just won't last.
I really don't think it matters either way.
That's my opinion.

 

[MikeM.]

If you plan on getting rid of the car before that point, what difference does it make? More power and fuel efficiency now, not your problem later.

Like I said, it's no different than saying you don't care how long the engine lasts.

Huh? The AEM and K&N filters have been proven many times over in various tests to have huge gains in air flow, efficiency and power over conventional papaer type oem filters, as mentioned before it is at the cost of filtration.

The Mazda OEM filter is not paper. It's a synthetic fiber filter media with substantial thickness. Whether a K&N or AEM filter shows HP and efficiency gains is application specific. You will not see any gain on a CX-5 However, over time you will see a LOSS of power which is guaranteed due to premature wear of valve seats, rings and cylinder walls.

In fact, pro racing teams won't run those types of filters at the 24 Hours of Daytona because of the sand ingestion into the engines, and then the car won't make it the entire race.

Then it doesn't take a lot of guess work to figure out just how bad these filters are. The car can't even complete one race without failing? (uhm)

While I don't know too much about this filter, I suspect it is a conventional paper filter, not actually a Dry Flow, especially since it can't be cleaned...

You can clean it if you want but, at the low price and long life, why waste the time? Just pop a new one in there. BTW, "dry flow" simply means it is meant to run dry. And the OEM CX-5 filter is meant to be run dry. If you oil it, it will no longer meet the flow requirements.

 

[MikeM.]

This is not true, the computer can't control the air flow, only fuel delivery. So when you increase the airflow with the better flowing air filter, the computer will send in more fuel to compensate and you will get more power. More air in allows for more fuel in and results in more power.

Not on a CX-5. The gas engines are "throttle by wire". The engine will only let as much air into the engine as the computer controlled throttle plate. Compounding matters is that the computer controls the timing of the valves which has everything to do with how much air is ingested. So there are two reasons why a stock CX-5 will not achieve better MPG with aftermarket filters:

1) The pressure drop, even at wide open throttle and high rpm's, over the air filter is so minimal as to be almost insignificant.
2) At all other throttle settings and rpm's the ECU purposefully limits the ingestion of air using a servo controlled throttle plate and variable valve timing. You could remove the filter completely and not get any more power or higher MPG's. At least not enough to measure.