Lighter = Faster (RX-7 Build #2)

[Lewis7789]

I would prefer to have my roll bar welded in for strength. If you've seen pics of the bolted in bars the feet punch right through the chassis. And you're damn crafty so I'm sure you can get your carpet and interior pieces back in around the bar so it looks stock but with a nice roll bar in place.

Is your roll bar 4 different colors? I'm confused by that statement.

I just figured you didn't want to weld in your bar in case you wanted to swap it to another chassis. But with all the body work your getting done to this one I don't see you changing chassis's again anytime soon.

-disclamier- not trying to sound like a douche, just thinking outloud.

 

[magnumP5]

I would prefer to have my roll bar welded in for strength. If you've seen pics of the bolted in bars the feet punch right through the chassis. And you're damn crafty so I'm sure you can get your carpet and interior pieces back in around the bar so it looks stock but with a nice roll bar in place.

Is your roll bar 4 different colors? I'm confused by that statement.

I just figured you didn't want to weld in your bar in case you wanted to swap it to another chassis. But with all the body work your getting done to this one I don't see you changing chassis's again anytime soon.

-disclamier- not trying to sound like a douche, just thinking outloud.

Yep, we've all seen the picture of the upside-down Mustang with the mounts punched through the floor. That's why I wanted to have 1/8" plates welded to the floor that tie into the rockers/bulkheads.

The main reason for bolting it in is so I can remove it to more easily access other things. Like you said, I could probably find a way around that. What I was trying to get at with the colors is I don't know what the exterior color is going to be. If the bar gets welded in it'll end up the same color as the exterior. Since I'm not planning on painting the car black the roll bar would be contrasting to the black interior. White or gray might not look bad but yellow or orange might look strange.

 

[Lewis7789]

Ahhh, gotcha. Now that makes sense. I just paint everything black so it didn't register you want it to be the exterior color.

 

[o0n8]

I don't think the contrasting of the roll bar and black interior would be bad if it matches the exterior, or even things on the exterior like wheels, numbers etc. Would it cost that much more to paint the intieror black, tape off and paint the extierior?

 

[magnumP5]

Ahhh, gotcha. Now that makes sense. I just paint everything black so it didn't register you want it to be the exterior color.

It's not that I want it to be the same color, but without extra steps ($$$) it'll end up the same color.

I don't think the contrasting of the roll bar and black interior would be bad if it matches the exterior, or even things on the exterior like wheels, numbers etc.

LOL, the wheels are black and any numbers or decals will likely be as well. Gray or white probably would look okay. Gray being better as it won't stick out as much and will match the stitching on the seats. Orange or yellow will definitely stick out as there isn't any of those colors in the car now.

Would it cost that much more to paint the intieror black, tape off and paint the extierior?

I'm trying to keep extraneous expenses like this from driving the over all cost up, but it doesn't hurt to ask. If it isn't absolutely necessary I don't want to do it. Or so I keep telling myself. I'm second guessing the front splitter and TII sideskirts at this point.

Went ahead and ordered some USB stuff for the display and ECU. Found some neat panel female-female adapters that'll allow me to quickly connect to either device without ripping up carpet or having wires hanging around.

 

[magnumP5]

Roll bar is going to stay bolt-in. At least for a little while longer. Stopped by the shop on Wednesday and we worked out a plan.

I decided to go a different direction with the radio delete panel. I just sold my center console gauge panel/pod, but not before I pulled a bunch of dimensions off it. Last night I decided I'd try to replicate it in .025" Al without the holes.

Not bad. Not perfect but okay considering I used only tin snips, a vice, some wood, and sand paper. Not a perfect copy because I couldn't recreate all the bends but it's stiffer than my previous idea and avoid permanently altering the radio surround. The current plan is to mount two USB ports for the display and ECU but I can add any combination of gauges, switches, and whatever in the future.

 

[mymmeryloss]

I say weld the bar in. Nothing says u gotta paint the bar the same color as the exterior. And can i be the first to say once the bar is in there you will never take it out...

 

[pharmST]

I'm new here, but just happy to see another RX7 aficionado. Like what you have going on with your project. I got a stripped model too to save weight. No sunroof or power anything. I have an FB set up as an autoX terror. Want to add an FC to my collection.

 

[magnumP5]

I'm new here, but just happy to see another RX7 aficionado. Like what you have going on with your project. I got a stripped model too to save weight. No sunroof or power anything. I have an FB set up as an autoX terror. Want to add an FC to my collection.

The FC's are so heavy. I'm trying to get mine down to SA/FB weight but unfortunately that means getting rid of just about every creature comfort. I've been looking for a clean SA for some time now to keep as a "classic car." Found one in NY with very low miles but they seller wants like $17k for it! Some day...

I let this thread get away from me again. Not that I haven't been doing anything but with the exception of last week the cold was preventing me from doing a lot. We also started renovating a bathroom in the house so that takes priority. Enough of the excuses...

I finished some of my interior projects. First is the radio delete plate with USB ports for the Haltech and RacePak:

The color will match better once I clean up everything else (dusty!). Next is the blank space in from of the console:

This used to have the switches for the power mirrors, etc. and now just has one double pole, momentary switch to cycle/program the Racepak. Last is the instrument cluster:

Sorry for the crappy, dark picture. The gauge surround has had extraneous holes shaved (cruise control, rear wiper, rear defroster). The instrument cluster has been replaced by the Racepak and two separate turn indicators.

I'm stopping by the body shop later today and I'll snap some pictures of the progress.

 

[Lewis7789]

Oooooooh, looking good!

 

[magnumP5]

Oooooooh, looking good!

I'm REALLY excited about the dash. Getting it setup is going to be challenging but once it is it should be pretty awesome. 7 readings per page (2 are fixed), 4 pages = many combinations of displaying up to 22 different parameters. Also, built in shift lights and warning lights.

Snapped a few pictures at the body shop. My project got pushed back so they've only just started working on filling in holes in the engine bay.

With the exception of most threaded holes, I had everything that's no longer needed shaved. Why leave the threaded holes? I figure it's best to allow for the most adjustability in the future. I'm not going for a tucked/shaved look anyway.

 

[magnumP5]

Welding is 80% done. All the little holes are plugged and now they're working on the roll bar. Yes, it's staying bolt-in and it's probably going to be the strongest bolt-in roll bar in existence. After the roll bar comes the rust repair. Yesterday I dropped off one of wheels/tires so they can also start the rear fender massaging. It's nice to finally have a shop that moves at a decent pace, which means I need to get off my own ass and finish up some things. Also, poly-carbonate rear window (e.g. Lexan, Makrolon, etc.) is likely a go.

 

[Lewis7789]

Giggity. On behalf of your friends here on M247, thank you for the updates.

 

[magnumP5]

Giggity. On behalf of your friends here on M247, thank you for the updates.

Thanks! It gives me something to do in the early morning hours before work gets crazy. I'm told more progress has been made and I'm needed at the shop so I'll be swinging by this afternoon. More pictures/updates tomorrow!

 

[magnumP5]

Pics of roll bar and supports:

The plates are 3/16" and are welded to the main bulkhead on two faces. This is likely one of the stronger points on the car since the rear sub-frame connects a couple inches back. Good news it, should I decide later, the bar can easily be solidly welded in.

 

[Lewis7789]

Not trying to nit-pick, but I would put some grade 8 washers on the bolt heads. Looking good though!

 

[magnumP5]

Not trying to nit-pick, but I would put some grade 8 washers on the bolt heads. Looking good though!

I have washers. They aren't required for fitting Once everything is done it will have Grade 8 washers both under the bolt heads and under the ny-lock nuts.

 

[Lewis7789]

Whew! I knew you knew better than that. I should've known it was just for test fitting. My apologies!

 

[o0n8]

Whew! I knew you knew better than that. I should've known it was just for test fitting. My apologies!

You should know better Evan. Jon is a function guy, not a hard parker for show.

 

[magnumP5]

Almost a month with no updates? Yep. Been focusing on some home renovations and kid #2 is due in 3 weeks.

Car is still at the body shop. Soon will be the time to pick the color. Gonna have them quote me prices for white, black, red, yellow, and orange. White and black are easy to define. I'm thinking Classic Red (Mazda), Magma Orange (VW), and Imola Yellow (VW) for the others. Other than that, painted a few things, sent the intake and exhaust manifolds out to be coated by Swain Tech, and waiting on some parts that have been on order for four weeks. That's about it.