Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)

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Evan I do think the fuel lines are reversed. My soft lines seem to cross, maybe I messed up describing what I saw. And also that sensor on your trans is the speed sensor. Its the older style, buy may still work if it comes down to needing it because ur ABS doesnt work. Not quite sure what the second connector on it is for though, unless it was a weird way of sending speed to cruise control or something like that.
 
why not just splice the wires back together on the abs?? i know it will still work cause i had to splice mine
 
Well I think I've got the major wrenching all buttoned up today. Suspension is done, but I'm waiting on Protege front endlinks. I ordered Escape endlinks but they aren't the same length as the Protege links. I'm not sure what's going on there. I'm going to double check the part numbers tomorrow.
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But it's a relief to have both lower control arms in, the front coilovers in and suspension wrapped up. The new endlinks should be here in a day or two then the suspension will be done. Whew.

As for the motor, tomorrow will be all about wiring. I cleaned up my tools and the garage and got both ECU's and harnesses ready to play tomorrow morning. I'm going to pour over the Milly wiring diagrams tonight and take notes from Justins thread about wiring.

I'm still trying to figure out the fuel lines. The KL manual says the fuel feed line on the fuel rail is the one closest to the firewall, but I'm still not sure which is the feed line from the Protege firewall. If a fellow Protege owner could double check for me I'd greatly appreciate it. :)

Motor has a new oil filter and oil and ready for tranny fluid (kinda tough to do by myself) and coming along nicely.

Oh, and I'm making a for sale thread for some of my spare Protege parts if anyone needs anything. MAF, A/C parts, PS pump.
 
The feed line on the KL is easy, its the one that goes to the banjo bolt, and the return is from the regulator. So just trace back from those two points. To check which hard line on the protege is feed, connect two pieces of hose to them and take a small container and put both ends in, turn the key and see which one fuel comes out. Solves the problem of cars being different and what not.
 
Well I think I've got the major wrenching all buttoned up today. Suspension is done, but I'm waiting on Protege front endlinks. I ordered Escape endlinks but they aren't the same length as the Protege links. I'm not sure what's going on there. I'm going to double check the part numbers tomorrow.
endlink.jpg

Wait those are escape links? These are what I got when I ordered the escape ones and they were a tab bit shorter not longer

DSCI0208.jpg
 
AZ, the rear endlinks are about half the length as the front.

Hmmm, When I was researching the endlinks and asked for what year Escape I should order they said they're all the same. Liars! heh-heh. I ordered these and they are for the 05-10 Escape. It seems everyone else has ordered these which are the 01-04 Escape. Which are probably what you ordered, right Sleezer?
 
yep he has to 02 escape endlinks. they only work for the front. and i believe the 02's are shorter but stiffer.
 
Yea I did the leg work for that. Im sure I made a thread with all the information available....... =)

I have 02 endlinks which are SHORTER than the stock P5 endlinks.
 
Yesterday Wes and I did a lot of running around. We hit Pull-A-Part in Akron and found four 626's. One even had a KLG4 with a manual tranny. We had a moment of silence for her... Just I ***** her of parts. I got the burp tank for the radiator, the T fitting for the lower radiator hose, intake air temp sensor and a spare dipstick for $22. I love that place.

Then we ran to O'Reily's (I've had their stupid theme song stuck in my head for days...) and picked up the 1996 MX-6 Radiator. It has the automatic trans cooler in it so we checked a bunch of different Mazda models (the MX-6 and 626 in different years) and they all came up with the same part number for the radiator. So I guess I'll just plug those two holes for the inlet/outlet. Picked up some coolant and a ricer radiator cap.

Then we ran to Autozone for coolant hoses and endlinks. I saw they only had Duralast brand in stock but I guess they'll work. The guy brought them up and they were Moog brand in a Duralast box. Score! And at $14 a piece to boot. So those will go on today. And the suspension will finally be done. Ugh.
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Then we ran to Napa for radiator hoses since Autozone didn't have jack. Napa was closed at 6:47pm. WTF? SO we ran to Home Depot Racing for radiator brackets. I'm going to fab those up today and mount the radiator finally. And mount the fans with the zipties from Summit.

Then more wiring diagrams. yay. So Justin, you just spliced into whatever signal/power wires you needed right? Basically jumping the input signals to or from the Protege ECU to the Milly ECU, right?
 
Basically, I just borrowed the powers from the protege ecu for the v6 ecu, ran new grounds where needed, took the clutch switch signal from the protege ecu and ran it to the v6 ecu. To get it running I know it sounds like Im over simplifying it, and maybe I am, since you are using the harness for the engine, the ecu for the engine then all you really need is powers and grounds with very few other inputs from the rest of the car. Its not like your trying to use the protege harness and ecu to run the v6. Once the ecu is happy with power and grounds and the signals from the car it should start right up. Then from there you can focus on getting the gauge cluster all working, like the temp gauge, tach, speed, battery light, and CEL. You shouldnt need to be splicing to much from the protege ecu.
 
Use this as kind of a check list for the main items.
wiring.jpg


Once you get all the required wiring done I would suggest taking your voltmeter and going through and checking that all pins coming off the v6 ecu are giving the appropriate voltages and signals depending on key off and key on. If you are using a OBDI setup I have all these in my wiring diagrams if you do not, if your OBDII sorry but I dont have those and hope you do. This will just confirm that the injectors, disty, knock sensor, TPS, crank and cam sensors, IAC, etc... are all working before you go to start it up.
 
O-O-O-O'Riley's, O-Riley auto parts!

PS: I know the feeling, I hear it at least 10 times a day at work :(
 
Another busy day. But damn I work slowly...

I put in the Moog Escape endlinks. There are a tight fit but they don't hit the control arm so I should be good.

Then I spent most of the day working on the radiator and running around to parts stores with my GF again. I got some brackets from Home Depot racing in the lumber department. Cut out some notches in the MX-6 radiator, put the brackets in a vise to bend them, cut them down to the right size, painted them with leftover bedliner and mounted them up with sheet metal screws and electronic board spacers to raise them up a bit.

Here's the notch in the radiator and raw bracket.
bracket-1.jpg


Here's the bracket painted and mounted.
bracket2.jpg


Side angle of the brackets in place.
bracket3.jpg


Then I mounted the burp tank to the radiator, cut/ran the tubing for it and mounted the SPAL fans with Summit's radiator zipties. Mounting the burp tank to forever. Measure 5 times, cut once in my case...
rad-1.jpg


rad1.jpg


I figure for the burp tank to work it's supposed to be mounted higher than the radiator. And since I'm not using the MX-6 fan assembly I had to mount it myself. So I mounted it as low as I could while still staying out of the way and still functioning like it should. Dear baby Jesus, just let it clear the hood... heh-heh
rad2.jpg
 
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