Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)
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Good call. I was thinking about putting something in there. We've got some sticky backed foam rubber at work I will snag.
And I meant to ask about the fans. On each side by the headlights are wires for the fans. Since I no longer have A/C I was just going to tie the fans together and run them off of one fan switch. I'm pretty sure the main fan is on the drivers side, so I would just wire them into that one. Is that cool?
And I found the coolant sensor for the Protege harness so I'll run some wire over to the coolant sensor ont he KL and tuck it away. Then I should have a working coolant gauge.
And I meant to ask about the fans. On each side by the headlights are wires for the fans. Since I no longer have A/C I was just going to tie the fans together and run them off of one fan switch. I'm pretty sure the main fan is on the drivers side, so I would just wire them into that one. Is that cool?
And I found the coolant sensor for the Protege harness so I'll run some wire over to the coolant sensor ont he KL and tuck it away. Then I should have a working coolant gauge.
PrinceValorum
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
I wonder if a section of a bike tire or something would work. I know, ghetto, but I don't know where else you'd get a little chunk of rubber.
Evan, I am not positive if the KL coolant temp sensor will work on the protege cluster. I was fortunate enough to have a ZE that had two coolant temp sensors. I know the second sensro did nothing for the protege cluster. So i swapped it out with the protege CTS and it worked right away so just a heads up.
Thanks guys. I snagged some foam rubber from work. But I don't think it will last very long so I'll run to HD later and try to source something.
And thanks for the heads up, Justin. I don't see a coolant temp sesnor plug on my harness (the cat did label them for me, but only have of the plugs and most of them rubbed off since he did it with atheletic tape and a pen.) but I see the CTS plug for the Protege and will just run the plug over there. And I'll ask Josh if I can have his sare CTS from his old FS-DE.
Oh, and I finally got to fill the tranny with fluid and go through the gears. The location is different. 2nd, 4th and revers are really far back, closer to the e-brake. I remember another cat said his tranny was like that too. Is yours like that Justin? I may go **** that manual 626 at the junk yard for it's shift linkages. Or at least get measurments. Maybe they will bolt up and put the shift lever back in the middle.
And thanks for the heads up, Justin. I don't see a coolant temp sesnor plug on my harness (the cat did label them for me, but only have of the plugs and most of them rubbed off since he did it with atheletic tape and a pen.) but I see the CTS plug for the Protege and will just run the plug over there. And I'll ask Josh if I can have his sare CTS from his old FS-DE.
Oh, and I finally got to fill the tranny with fluid and go through the gears. The location is different. 2nd, 4th and revers are really far back, closer to the e-brake. I remember another cat said his tranny was like that too. Is yours like that Justin? I may go **** that manual 626 at the junk yard for it's shift linkages. Or at least get measurments. Maybe they will bolt up and put the shift lever back in the middle.
**** wiring. Just saying... Pablo came over and I think we've got the alternator and starter wired up into the fuse block and Protege harness to the little white clip for the block. Wiring schematics don't make any freaking sense to me so he said to send him my PDF's for the wiring diagrams and he'll sort them out. I've got the Protege and '96 Milly diagrams, I just don't know how to read them. I had the same problem when wiring up my bass guitar I made. I ended up just drawing everything with Photoshop and getting the diagram re-worked from other bassists to finally get it to work. I like soldering and wiring, but it would be awesome if Pablo can just say "Here, this goes to that. Solder it.". Heh-heh. Arg. I just don't want to fry something, like my ECU or harnesses...
Well the bit of good news is that the coolant hoses are squared away. Another trip to O"reileys and got some preformed hoses that worked wonderfully with a little trimming. And that putz who works there was still trying to impress me with his stock Mitsu Galant with NOS stickers on the side. And the air intake temp sensor fromt he Protege fits the Milly harness perfectly.
Well the bit of good news is that the coolant hoses are squared away. Another trip to O"reileys and got some preformed hoses that worked wonderfully with a little trimming. And that putz who works there was still trying to impress me with his stock Mitsu Galant with NOS stickers on the side. And the air intake temp sensor fromt he Protege fits the Milly harness perfectly.
Haha! Thanks, Cres. I'm sure I'll find something locally for the rubber piece. Shipping from Hawaii will be silly. You poor bastard... The price for getting your parts for shipping has got to be crazy. But I may take you up on the wiring offer. Pablo is coming back over tomorrow to look over the wiring again. Then we're gonna fire this b**** up. This is getting silly.
Well we got some more stuff wired up today. But having trouble finding the right wires to tap into for the KL harness. I've got a complete PDF for a 1996 Milly but this stuff doesn't make any sense to me and Pablo is having trouble finding the grounds for the KL harness. He said the PCM is labelled easily in that diagram but the KL isn't labeled as well. Plus it doesn't help that all the Milly's have automatics and the KJ's (the 2.3 supercharged V6) are in there too. Can anyone help out? I can post screen shots like this for help.
We've got mostly everything wired up in the engine bay. I just need to find the main ground for the negative battery on the engine, and figure out which wires to tap for the Milly harness.
We've got mostly everything wired up in the engine bay. I just need to find the main ground for the negative battery on the engine, and figure out which wires to tap for the Milly harness.
The wiring diagram link is here;
http://milleniatech.net/docs/
You can download it for free, just gotta jump through a couple hoops. It's so fun because all the Millenia's were automatic. Ugh. But we wired up the tranny plug so it's always in PARK. And ran the power from the fuse block to the injectors. We've got the starter and alternator running through the Protege fuse block through the Protege multi-pin white clip that connects to the block.
Where would be a good spot to ground the negative battery terminal? There are two think wires coming from it. I grounded on in the stock location on the strut tower. And the second I was thinking to a 12mm bolt hole open on the block near the coolant lines. Then ground the Protege harness and Milly harness to the block.
I'm soooo close. I'm thinking about flying Justin and Cres out to Ohio for the weekend to help us wire this b**** up. heh-heh
http://milleniatech.net/docs/
You can download it for free, just gotta jump through a couple hoops. It's so fun because all the Millenia's were automatic. Ugh. But we wired up the tranny plug so it's always in PARK. And ran the power from the fuse block to the injectors. We've got the starter and alternator running through the Protege fuse block through the Protege multi-pin white clip that connects to the block.
Where would be a good spot to ground the negative battery terminal? There are two think wires coming from it. I grounded on in the stock location on the strut tower. And the second I was thinking to a 12mm bolt hole open on the block near the coolant lines. Then ground the Protege harness and Milly harness to the block.
I'm soooo close. I'm thinking about flying Justin and Cres out to Ohio for the weekend to help us wire this b**** up. heh-heh
PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
I wonder, is that why the one fellow shortened his linkage?
That would fix the issues, but he couldnt get his studs to line up with the holes if i recall. It really isnt much different, maybe .5" further back, but if its a bother then shortening it will fix it and put it back to stock.
Anywhere solid that can support a bolt is a good place for a ground. It really doesn't take a lot research to choose to be honest. Is it metal? Away from anything important? Pre-existing bolt of good size? Any or all of the above? Make it a ground. They all do the same thing, as long as there's no paint in the way.
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I envy your progress, Evan.
Regarding grounds I've realized a few things from my wiring escapades:
1. Grounds to engine block are better than grounds to chassis
2. Common grounds are best. The theoretical best grounding scheme would be to have everything on a single system grounded to the same point
3. If you can't ground one system at one location make sure the ground points are far apart and grounded to the same "thing" (e.g. chassis, engine, etc.)
4. Always ground to bare metal. Strip away any paint and don't use loctite, threadlocker, etc.
I don't think the Millenia wiring diagrams are going to help too much with the grounds. I'm sure you already know this but all the circled numbers at the bottom of the page represent ground points. Somewhere at the beginning or end of the Wiring Diagram the locations of all the ground points should be shown. The best you can do is reference where they are on a Millenia and try to replicate that the best you can on the P5.
Regarding grounds I've realized a few things from my wiring escapades:
1. Grounds to engine block are better than grounds to chassis
2. Common grounds are best. The theoretical best grounding scheme would be to have everything on a single system grounded to the same point
3. If you can't ground one system at one location make sure the ground points are far apart and grounded to the same "thing" (e.g. chassis, engine, etc.)
4. Always ground to bare metal. Strip away any paint and don't use loctite, threadlocker, etc.
I don't think the Millenia wiring diagrams are going to help too much with the grounds. I'm sure you already know this but all the circled numbers at the bottom of the page represent ground points. Somewhere at the beginning or end of the Wiring Diagram the locations of all the ground points should be shown. The best you can do is reference where they are on a Millenia and try to replicate that the best you can on the P5.
princess peach
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- '92 Miata, '06 MS6
the grounds in the engine bay shouldn't be that hard, what I can't find on the diagrams is the pin for ground on both ECUs. I found the constant power from the P5 ECU but I haven't found the one for the Millenia ECU. After he jumps those he should be able to fire it up...
Well the diagrams give a identifier for the pin ie. (4e) and then in the bottom left of the diagram is usually a pinout list with wire color and pin number for the harness. Typically 4 being the number of the connector and e being the pin, but not always true.
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