Is clunking caused only by the endlinks or bushings?

Dimitrios

Contributor
:
2012 CWP MS3
So, here's my setup on a 2003 P5 (edit: fixed :) )

- H&R Sport Springs
- Tokico "blues"
- Mazdaspeed swaybar kit (full deal - front and rear)

Running 16" OEMs with winter tires; MSP wheels for the summer

In Feb. I began getting what I perceived to be the clunk that has plagued the MP3/MSP folks since '01.

When going over bumps and other relatively large unevenness in the road, I'd get a clunking in the rear. I brushed it off to the cold weather for the most part, but knowing that something is up.

Fast forward to this weekend where I couldn't find not one thing necessarily wrong back there:

- Bushings are good (actually replaced with 'evolv's kit)
- Endlinks are tight and look OK as well

I suspected bad rear dampers, but with only < 15k on them I couldn't suspect them entirely (all was installed in August '07) the dampers look OK (no fluid leaking on the shaft) and the "bounce test" came out OK).

I pulled the rear panels to see if perhaps the rear strut mount or strut bolt was moving (while doing the "bounce test"). I perceived a small movement, but I think it's negligible.

So, my question is: What else could/should I be looking for?

I feel I pretty much checked out the full suspension otherwise.

Some thoughts?
 
Last edited:
2005 P5 eh?

Did you get the greaseable fittings on evolv's kit? If so, you might want to grease them. If not, you may still want to grease them.

Which end links are you using? The P5 endlinks or the Mazdaspeed? The ends of the sway bar still point toward the back of the car, right? Shorter endlinks have a tendancy to allow the bar to rotate about 180*.
 
I just installed the kit - they're greasable.

As stated, I had the noise prior to evolves kit.

All underpinnings are non-stock, including endlinks. Everything that came with the Mazdaspeed swaybar kit is in.

I pulled the plastic hatch panels last night and I suspect that the strut shaft bolt at the top is in need of a washer between the "cup" and the hex head nut. On the drive to work this morning, the noise was at least 2x times louder and much more evident that's towards the top of the rear suspension assembly.

I'll double check the swaybar; I somewhat never suspected that ends should be pointing towards the back (should have checked the Service Manual).
 
in my experience, endlinks can "appear" to be tight, but the bushing inside is loose enough to clunk.
 
Fair enough - as I'm not interested in the adjustables from AWR, I just ordered new endlinks (should be in tomorrow).

I'll look to put the washer under the bolt tonight/later.
 
2005 P5 eh?

Did you get the greaseable fittings on evolv's kit? If so, you might want to grease them. If not, you may still want to grease them.

Which end links are you using? The P5 endlinks or the Mazdaspeed? The ends of the sway bar still point toward the back of the car, right? Shorter endlinks have a tendancy to allow the bar to rotate about 180*.

Sway bar is still pointed towards the back.

I installed the washers under the damper shaft nut last night; no benefit.

I put the seat backs down on the drive in today and it's just unreasonably loud; as if the entire rear suspension is about to drop out.

Endlinks should be in today and I'll look to replace after work.
 
Replaced endlinks last night and it's all pretty much still rickety back there.

Everything is tight and torqued to spec.

I'm going to replace the strut mounts (assuming a strut isn't blown)
 
Were the spring perches you used in good shape? Not thinking those could actually make that much noise all loaded up with the cars weight but hey, if all else checks out then time to go deep. Does it appear anything is touching when suspension is articulating? How much clearance is there for everything under there to move around? Sorry, seems you've addressed the common stuff, just throwin out ideas beyond that.
 
Everything looks good.

Yeah, I checked the perches and the spring fit there-in both while unladen and on the ground. Looked OK - couldn't move it around and it rubber mounts look good too.

Suspension looks clean - not rubbing anywhere that I can tell.
 
i have same thing with protege 1.6 DX 2000, change sway bar bushing, struts, end-links also appear to be tight.. but i really cant tell whats going on.. everything (all) down there is stock.

i'm sick of that clunking...
 
i have the clunk too. and its bad. i thought my bushings were good until i got underneath the car and grabbed at the actual swaybar and was able to move it back and forth. so it was loose in the bushings eventhough they "appear" to be fine. so i ordered new energy suspension bushings, the 19mm ones. so it fits tighter and once worn in, will still fit tight.

im going to install the new bushings in the next day or so. cant wait to not hear clunking.lol
 
Bumpage/update

Replaced the strut mounts on the rear. Everything looks good, but I did notice that I had some play in the strut shaft (both). i'm going to open a claim for warranty on the Tokicos. No oil evident and they rebound OK, but that play makes me assume that perhaps any needle (or retaining bearing) maybe shot causing just enough commotion to bring the noize.

...now where did I put that receipt...
 
I have a 1999 LX with 195,000km and original rear struts and mounts. I have a knocking sound as well and had the linkages&bushings replaced about 20,000 km ago. I have done minor repairs myself and am wondering if replacing the rear struts and mounts is do-able. I don't have access to a lift.
 
My rear bar links started squeaking, then groaning, then I got 'the rattle'. So I did the new end links yesterday (fun cutting 6yr old bolts next to brake lines) and still have a clunk.

Mine is not louder over bigger bumps, and only when straight. It's like a pre-load lean snugs it up. Time to check the rear bar's center bushings.
 
So new struts went in (Tokico warranty) and it's all gravy. Knock went away entirely.

Good times...
 
what did you say to make your warranty claim? i may attempt this as i am running almost the same setup.
 
get under the car and grab the middle of the swaybar and move it back and forth. if there is a clunking noise, the bar should have some movement. this is what causes this. at least in my experience.

you need new bushings for the brackets. i ordered the 19mm bushings from energy suspension so they are a tighter fit and when worn in they still fit tight. unlike the 20mm ones when they were in, they go to hell.

i just replaced my bushings and there is zero clunking/squeeking and all that jazz. smooth riding now. when you order bushings, get the tub of grease too. it will last awhile and its worth it.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back