HOW-TO: WGA (wastegate actuator) replacement.

[Alejo_NIN]

dude, is easy!!!

hehe...make sure the engine is cold when you do it...i tried it with the engine hot and damn, does it hurt"~!

 

[exNeon]

i didnt really bother following the snaking of the stockers, i just eyeballed where one line coming out of the T went, removed the easiest end and pulled it through to the other end. the pulling resulted in some knuckle bleeding, but nothing unexpected.

the T goes from intakemani - T - bpv
|
wga

just cut the lines and L connectors off, they are rock hard too.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

you might want to leave the WGA on its own vac, get a vaccum block.
BPV or BOV must be on its own line to the manifold without anything t'eeing off from it

 

[1moreMPH]

you might want to leave the WGA on its own vac, get a vaccum block.
BPV or BOV must be on its own line to the manifold without anything t'eeing off from it

...the stock set up has the wga vac line T-ing off from it... I still don't see how ya'll got to the actuator hose without taking s*** apart, i don't have big hands and i cant hardly even get to it, let alone unplug/replug it!

 

[Alejo_NIN]

onl;y remove the hot pipe, that's all

 

[nvmsp]

I'm doing this very soon, hope all goes well. Just ordered a wastegate and can't wait.

 

[MSP608]

I'm doing this very soon, hope all goes well. Just ordered a wastegate and can't wait.

dont go into the install thinking its easy and youll have it done in no time. i mean theres only 2 nuts and the actuator arm to take off, should be simple. wellll theyre very hard to get to and will be quite frustrating. good luck replacing yours.

 

[nvmsp]

Mazda mechanic got me though. I'm not doing it. Only parts I install are little things.

 

[fLyPiNoY7]

i just finished installing mine but the replacement was actually longer than the stock one...so i had no problem installing it and getting it over the actuator arm but when im driving, it takes such a long time to build boost since the wastegate is partially open...gotta put some washers or some sort of spacer between the actuator and the bracket for the wastegate to close all the way

 

[nvmsp]

i just finished installing mine but the replacement was actually longer than the stock one...so i had no problem installing it and getting it over the actuator arm but when im driving, it takes such a long time to build boost since the wastegate is partially open...gotta put some washers or some sort of spacer between the actuator and the bracket for the wastegate to close all the way

Anybody else have this problem?

 

[fLyPiNoY7]

whatever the case was, i was able to fix it by fabricating 2 spacers out of some metal strip that i had...didnt need to remove the manifold or heat shield at all either...

 

[Rush]

i am convinced that there is no possible way to take the 2nd(back) nut off of the wga w/out taking the whole assembly off. if someone knows of a "special" secret super duper way to do this, please let me know, thanks

You're getting answers in the other thread .. It's easier to get organized answers if you only bump a single thread.

 

[BradC]

i am convinced that there is no possible way to take the 2nd(back) nut off of the wga w/out taking the whole assembly off. if someone knows of a "special" secret super duper way to do this, please let me know, thanks

Two sets of hands help. IIRC, I held the socket on the nut from below while my friend turned it from above.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

it can be done with one person only
i've personally done it like that wihtout removing the manifold or anything else

 

[Pirana]

I have done it twice...I use a flex-head Gearwrench.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

That';s It

 

[kingpin7666]

this guy is my hero

 

[Alejo_NIN]

who?

 

[BradC]

Good to hear she's fixed!!

 

[AcolyteMSP]

This blowz :\ i think its on right lol. Uh so does it matter if the gate is slid over to meet as close to the rod as possible or no?