Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Or alternatively go buy a box of assorted clips at autozone for $3.
long screw driver, parallel to the WGA rod (from the driver's side). Just get it rotated, push and it'll pop off.
HOW-TO: WGA (wastegate actuator) replacement.
- Thread starter Alejo_NIN
- Start date
Or alternatively go buy a box of assorted clips at autozone for $3.
long screw driver, parallel to the WGA rod (from the driver's side). Just get it rotated, push and it'll pop off.
Or so it seems! Lol all the bolts are so rusted I've broken 2 of them trying to get em off.
Well I just finished replacing the wastegate actuator with the ATP version and although it does hold boost much better, I'm still having idle issues. I'm thinking it might possibly be an exhaust leak since I've noticed that every time I release the gas there is a distinct whistling sound and can hear it upon start up. Any feedback?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
While a leaking WGA diaphram can contribute to idle issues, its not the first place I'd look. what have you done to diagnose it so far? Off the top of my head, EGR, vac leaks... plugs, wires, coils.
As for your startup and let-off noise.. I got nuthin.
As for your startup and let-off noise.. I got nuthin.
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I've cleaned the EGR about a month or two ago but didn't help. I also looked for cracks in the intake piping as I was changing the wastegate, but found nothing. Plan on taking a smoke machine to it this weekend, hopefully revealing the problem.
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
- :
- 2003 MSP
Hello since I am new to the world forced induction I thought I would post my question about the wastegate.
I have purchased the Forge wga. It seems to me from what I have read here that the adjustable rod being lengthened decreases boost and shortening it increases boost.
Now this seems backwards to me because of the mechanics.
The engine puts vacuum on the wga which shortens the rod. Now it seems if you put preload on the wastegate door then it would never open. I installed mine replaced the vac hoses and set the rod length to match the factory setting but I now feel like I do not boost at all.
It took me an hour to install not counting the trip to get the e clip from the store, mine busted into pieces.
I undid the pipe from the turbo to the top of the intercooler undid the heatshield and moved aside.
Removed the 11mm from the top of the wga and then from underneath the car removed the clip and the 11mm on the bottom of the wga.
Reinstalled the clip on from underneath the car by hand. I am slender.
Note I did not have the universal joint on my ratchet I had to use an a in drive ratchet and three little clicks at a time it was a pita.
I have purchased the Forge wga. It seems to me from what I have read here that the adjustable rod being lengthened decreases boost and shortening it increases boost.
Now this seems backwards to me because of the mechanics.
The engine puts vacuum on the wga which shortens the rod. Now it seems if you put preload on the wastegate door then it would never open. I installed mine replaced the vac hoses and set the rod length to match the factory setting but I now feel like I do not boost at all.
It took me an hour to install not counting the trip to get the e clip from the store, mine busted into pieces.
I undid the pipe from the turbo to the top of the intercooler undid the heatshield and moved aside.
Removed the 11mm from the top of the wga and then from underneath the car removed the clip and the 11mm on the bottom of the wga.
Reinstalled the clip on from underneath the car by hand. I am slender.
Note I did not have the universal joint on my ratchet I had to use an a in drive ratchet and three little clicks at a time it was a pita.
yes, it sounds counterintuitive but that's the way it works
basically, the "vaccum source" works like this
when the car is on IDLE, the line sees VACCUM, then the WGA contracts and CLOSES the wastegate
when the car is on boost, the line sees PRESSURE, then the WGA is pushed forward and keeps the wastegate closed UNTIL it sees a higher pressure than the SPRING is rated for.
i.e. the spring could be a 7PSI spring, which means that when pressure reaches 7PSI, the spring has the same pressure as the boost..anything about 7PSI will mean boost has more pressure than the spring thus allowing the wastegate to open...
look at this:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/informati...ost-control-wastegates-how-turn-up-boost.html
basically, the "vaccum source" works like this
when the car is on IDLE, the line sees VACCUM, then the WGA contracts and CLOSES the wastegate
when the car is on boost, the line sees PRESSURE, then the WGA is pushed forward and keeps the wastegate closed UNTIL it sees a higher pressure than the SPRING is rated for.
i.e. the spring could be a 7PSI spring, which means that when pressure reaches 7PSI, the spring has the same pressure as the boost..anything about 7PSI will mean boost has more pressure than the spring thus allowing the wastegate to open...
look at this:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/informati...ost-control-wastegates-how-turn-up-boost.html
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
- :
- 2003 MSP
I am reading the article now.Finally got mine swapped out today. Cel went off after a short drive so hopefully it stays off.
I don't have a boost gauge, is there any way I can tell if I'm back to normal boost levels? The car feels exactly the same. I figured I would notice a lower power level since I was over boosting before.
Picked up an unused forge wga from a forum member and I have to say I'm slightly disappointed in the quality of the piece. First, the arm was too long (compared to stock) even when adjusted to its shortestshortest. Second, the hole to fit over the pin was ever so slightly smaller which made it a huge pain to get back on the pin. I solved the first two problems by switching the arm and using the one from my original wga.
last problem was the wga was assembled such that the vacuum connection was positioned in exactly the wrong spot. It either was directly in the way of the heat shield or directly pointed at the the hot pipe such that you couldn't have put it back on. Ended up disassembling it and rotating the top to a position that worked.
I don't have a boost gauge, is there any way I can tell if I'm back to normal boost levels? The car feels exactly the same. I figured I would notice a lower power level since I was over boosting before.
Picked up an unused forge wga from a forum member and I have to say I'm slightly disappointed in the quality of the piece. First, the arm was too long (compared to stock) even when adjusted to its shortestshortest. Second, the hole to fit over the pin was ever so slightly smaller which made it a huge pain to get back on the pin. I solved the first two problems by switching the arm and using the one from my original wga.
last problem was the wga was assembled such that the vacuum connection was positioned in exactly the wrong spot. It either was directly in the way of the heat shield or directly pointed at the the hot pipe such that you couldn't have put it back on. Ended up disassembling it and rotating the top to a position that worked.
Well I replaced my WGA two weekends ago with the ATP. It took me 3 hours as well, but only because I drained coolant to replace the radiator and hoses and my 1/4 drive socket I used for the WGA nuts is going bad.
I unbolted the exhaust manifold but couldn't get the EGR pipe off. It gave me enough space/wiggle room to get it done, but getting EGR off would have helped more.
I used a long screw driver through the exhaust manifold and dead blow hammer to break the clip off.
I broke the WGA nuts loose using a ratcheting box wrench.
I used a 1/4 drive socket wrench, 45 degree elbow adapter, and long extension under the exhaust manifold to get the far nut off.
The ATP is peaking around 10.5 psi and settles down to 8-8.5 psi.
I unbolted the exhaust manifold but couldn't get the EGR pipe off. It gave me enough space/wiggle room to get it done, but getting EGR off would have helped more.
I used a long screw driver through the exhaust manifold and dead blow hammer to break the clip off.
I broke the WGA nuts loose using a ratcheting box wrench.
I used a 1/4 drive socket wrench, 45 degree elbow adapter, and long extension under the exhaust manifold to get the far nut off.
The ATP is peaking around 10.5 psi and settles down to 8-8.5 psi.
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
- :
- 2003 MSP
Where are you getting your signal for the wga. If it is at the factory location that is why it spikes so bad because it sees vac and boost.
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
- :
- 2003 MSP
No but I consulted with thhpope540 we taped the turbo compressor housing like the big buy turbo chargers. That gives your wga a vac only signal which extends its life and really fast response. I also helped illanoizy tap his housing.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
I don't think I agree it gives a vac only signal.. (I think you meant boost only), but very likely does make for faster response by the WGA as theres just less air to compress between one and the other. Should minimize spikes too.
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
- :
- 2003 MSP
Yes that's what I ment
boost holds solid no spikes.