HOW-TO: WGA (wastegate actuator) replacement.

here's my question. when you install the new one. Everyone is talking about presurizing the actuator to put it on the pin. When the actuator is at rest should the wastgate door pin be all the way towards the actuator side of the it's path, or does it have to be closed a little. I think the factory was closed a little.

I guess what I'm asking is how critical is it that the replcement actuator rod be exactly the same lenght as the factory. Thanks...
 
thats funny cuz i just put in my new wga today, the atp direct replacement.
when looking at the new and old next to each other, the old one seemed a bit shorter, and when installing the new one, i couldnt get the wga hole over the pin because it didnt reach.

so are you saying that the new wga needs to be under boost to get it over the pin?
how about i get a friend to extend the wga rod from the top with plyers and i will be underneat trying to get the end over the pin....that sounds like it might work.
i was thinking of getting the adjustable end for it, but if that can be avoided im all for it.
 
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I actually have a Forge Wastegate Actuator. The shaft has a lot more adjustment capabilities than the one you all are talking about. I adjusted mine so that at normal rest the rod is on the pin a complete rest. When the Actuator isn't underboost there is no presure at all either way on my system.

This would seem ideal to me. The Forge is a nice looking actuator. I bought it off a member of this forum. He said it has a 9psi spring installed. I'm curently using the UNICHIP boost controller and I don't get the 13psi spike. It just goes to 10 and holds there.
 
dude, that's exactly what i did...**** pressurizing the wga...too technical.
get some pliers and pull on the motherf**** like your life depended on it...lol

the WGA is a little bit shorter than the stock but works in the same way. it opens the WG as does the OEM WGA
exNeon said:
thats funny cuz i just put in my new wga today, the atp direct replacement.
when looking at the new and old next to each other, the old one seemed a bit shorter, and when installing the new one, i couldnt get the wga hole over the pin because it didnt reach.

so are you saying that the new wga needs to be under boost to get it over the pin?
how about i get a friend to extend the wga rod from the top with plyers and i will be underneat trying to get the end over the pin....that sounds like it might work.
i was thinking of getting the adjustable end for it, but if that can be avoided im all for it.
 
alright, all is done, rod over pin, bolts on, wga in, except for the eclip.
any tips.
do i need the longest skinniest pliers i can find or what?
apparently theres an e clip insert/remover tool that exists, anybody use that?
 
Pirana said:
Man, I do appreciate all the work...but you do not need to remove the manifold to change the wastegate actuator...it only takes about 30 minutes to do the exchange. I only removed the heatshield and the bracket holding the turbo oil line to do the swap.
this is how i did it to and it took me 30 min to and it took a good 15 min to get the car on the lift due to the side skirts
 
Finnaly finished mine this afternoon. I think I was trying to small of a clip. Once I used the proper size I was able to slide the clip on with just the ends of my fingers. I don't think there realy is a trick to it... other than just take your time and it will go on.
 
do you know what size the clip was. i lost the original so i dont have it to use as a reference
 
exNeon said:
do you know what size the clip was. i lost the original so i dont have it to use as a reference

5/16"

I bought mine at Autozone. They come in an Assotment pack. I couldn't find just the size I needed but the kit included the right size and 4 other sizes for less than $5. It's the second from the smallest clip in the kit. They came in a clear and green package.

Dorman
Part Number 784-632
E-Clips,Assortment
 
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cool, i also have the assortment, but have been trying to get the 1/4 size on.
i will try the 5/16
 
exNeon said:
cool, i also have the assortment, but have been trying to get the 1/4 size on.
i will try the 5/16

same thing here. Once I started trying the correct size it only took about 3 attempts and I got it. The car runs smooth now.
 
Mine is coming in next week, so I'm reading up on all the issues you guys have run into.

Since the ATP wastegate increases boost by a pound or two, do you need to run colder plugs, or is this a small enough increase not to need that?
 
k so when installing my EBC for the unichip tonight, i destroyed the end of the vac line running from the WGA to the factory T-connection (the thing turned to cement on the T, so i literally had to chip it away, and now it's kinda shredded, and probably not gonna keep the line). So im gonna need to replace that vac line somehow... i won't have to remove the wga obviously, but any tips on replacing that line? i feel like ive gotta take stuff out just to get to it, but i want to be as un-intrusive as possible.
 
the same thing happened to me, i got a new T-fitting from advance, some line and replaced everything that went to the T-fitting. The hardest part was getting the ends of the line off the wga and the bpv. they were hardened on there pretty good, so i ended up cutting them off.
its not hard, and you dont have to remove anything else to replace the lines, just do one at a time.
 
yea i am seeing now why all lines should be replaced...this is total bulls*** haha. They've all turned to stone! ...but how in the heck did you manage to snake around down there with such little room and replace them??
 
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