How-to: MSP FSB Install

[gar777]

I had posted some info on the MSP sway bar kit previously see:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100504&page=1&pp=15
but thought I should consolidate it in one place and write it up as a proper How-to so here goes. Basic instructions first, then a bunch of photos. I will try to answer any questions you have.

WARNING: Mazda recommends use of the MSP sway bars only with the MP3/MSP struts since they have stronger mounting tabs. Using these bars with DX/LX/ES/P5 struts may cause the end link mounting tabs on your struts to break off. For more info, use "Search."

MSP FSB Installation

This job isn't very hard but it's more involved and takes longer than it seems like it should for a sway bar. The problem is that the bar fits in pretty closely between the subframe and the firewall and has lots of twists and curves which make it impossible to remove the bar without disconnecting a bunch of other things and freeing up room to wiggle the bar out.

You have to remove:
(1) transverse cross member (4 bolts)
(2) exhaust middle section,
(3) shift rod (both ends) and support rod (front end only, back end stays attached),
(4) longitudinal support brace (from under radiator to behind engine),
(5) unbolt steering rack (4 bolts) from subframe (leave tie rod ends connected,
(6) unbolt struts from upright (4 bolts) and pop brake clip off and move brake line out of mounting hole (to give more room for brake line to flex when subframe moves down)
(7) unbolt subframe from chassis (8 bolts)

This will allow you to lower the subframe a few inches. With a friend pulling down on the back of the subframe, you should be able to fish the bar out. The reason you need a friend to "pull down" on the subframe (even though you've unbolted almost all of it), is that it is still connected to the control arms, which are connected to the drive shafts, which are connected to the engine/transmission, which are connected to the chassis by the motor mount next to each wheel well (and possibly the front and rear motor mounts also, although I ended up removing those as well).

I was doing this alone and wasn't able to pull the subframe down enough while fishing the bar out by myself so I removed the rear motor mount (NOT an easy task unless you have already installed the AWR rear mount, which I had - see How-to I wrote on that). Removing the rear mount lets you drop the subframe a few more inches and get the needed clearance. It's possible that, with the stock rear engine mount, there is enough flex to pull the subframe down and get the bar out without a friend's help, but this did not seem doable with my rear AWR mount in--that really tightens things up back there.

NOTE: If you are installing the MSP front bar but haven't installed the AWR rear mount BUT THINK YOU MAY EVER WANT TO INSTALL THE AWR REAR MOUNT, then remove the 10mm nut on the bottom of the plastic bracket when you have the subframe dropped. This will save you lots of time later when you install the AWR rear mount. See AWR rear mountHow-to for more info on this.

 

[gar777]

the kit is pretty complete, except for the instructions which are lame

 

[gar777]

Here is the parts list:

MSP ACCESSORIES (MAZDASPEED AFTERMARKET) SWAY BAR KIT (0000-8M-C15) includes the following:

BN7H-34-151 - MSP Front sway bar (25mm)
BN7H-34-156 - MSP Front sway bar bushings (2)
J001-34-034A - Front flange nuts (4) (for end links)

BP7H-28-151A - MSP Rear sway bar (20mm)
BN7H-28-800A - MSP Rear cross member
B26R-28-170 - MSP Rear end links (about 1" longer than ES links) (2)
BP7H-28-156D - MSP Rear sway bar bushings (2)
BN7H-28-155A - MSP Rear sway bar mounting plate (horseshoe bracket) (2)
B001-39-037B - Rear flange nuts (black) (4)
9994-01-001 - Rear flange nuts (gold, for end links, I think) (4)
9978-01-025 - Bolt, flange (4)

BP48-40-581A - conical Exhaust gasket (in front of middle exhaust section, under engine and before 2nd cat)
FSB8-40-305 - Exhaust gasket (behind middle exhaust section--section with cat)

9922-13-020 - Kotter pins (2) - not sure where these go

NOTE ON QUANTITIES: This is everything that came with the kit. Lots of these items were bagged and labeled parts within labeled bags (where both individual part and group of identical parts had same part #) so confirm quantities before ordering.

 

[gar777]

here's a few basic photos: (1) strut, showing sway bar endlink mounting point, (2) illustration of 2-wrench technique to remove nuts on top of endlink (use a ratchet with a 5mm hex-key socket to hold the stud and a 14mm combination wrench to turn the nut, or 17mm if you've upgraded these nuts from stock--see instructions below) and (3) transverse cross member (black metal piece going across) which needs to be removed--you can also see the middle exhaust section with cat which also needs to be removed.

 

[gar777]

a few more: (1) front of shift rod and shift rod support (yellow bushing is Kartboy shift bushing = great $30 mod!), (2) back of shift rod (to view 1 + 2 properly, tilt your head to the right--I promise to learn how to rotate photos for next time!), and (3) view looking rearward toward middle exhaust section (containing 2nd cat) which you need to remove

 

[gar777]

more photos (1) support back section of exhaust (note that shift support rod stays attached in back), (2) here are the pieces you've removed (transverse cross member, shift rod and middle exhaust section), and (3) here is the view of the sway bar (with blue paint) looking forward from the center tunnel--see how tight it is in there. One tricky part is getting the rubber exhaust donuts off their mounts. I used WD40 and a small screwdriver, working one at a time while I had pushed the exhaust toward the side I was working

 

[gar777]

(1) remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts holding steering rack to subframe and pull rack off studs, (2) remove 3 of these subframe bolts on each side (I'm not sure which 3 but I think it's the outside ones) and (3) remove the nut on the pointy, downward facing stud holding the subframe on each side. This should permit you to pull down on the subframe and wiggle the bar out. Doing this by myself, I was busy cussing during this party and neglected to take good photos (sorry).

 

[gar777]

ok, after you've unbolted everything and are able to pull down on the subframe and wiggle the old bar out and new bar in, you are almost done. Here's (1) stock ES bar (black) and MSP bar (red), (2) red bar installed, (3) different angle and (4) 2 exhaust gaskets which come with the kit

 

[gar777]

When you install the sway bar, use white lithium grease or similar on the bar where the bushings go to minimize squeaks. Also, the arrow on the brackets face forward.

One other tip: don't use the new end link nuts which come with the kit--they are 14mm and have a flange which shortens the area you can get a wrench on so they tend to round off. Instead, buy some 3/8" washers and M10-1.25 nuts (17mm) and use those instead. I change these often so I bought packages like these:

 

[gar777]

Rear Sway Bar Install

Compared to the front, the rear is easy, so let's do that as well: (1) unbolt endlinks on both sides, (2) here are the rear toe adjusting (eccentric) bolts - write down their position before removing so you can get the alignment close when reinstalling, and (3) there are 2 more bolts inside this cross member which you can see here

 

[gar777]

(1) remove 2 bolts per side holding cross member to unibody, (2) disconnect rubber donut holding muffler and (3) the bolts holding the transverse suspension arms can't fit out the front of the holes until you lower the cross member

 

[gar777]

when you get the old cross member out, the transverse suspension arms look funny hanging in the air:

 

[gar777]

new red bar looks nice. in second pic, note how when car is off jack stands (tires on ground), sway bar is nearly horizontal and end links are nearly vertical. Non-MSP end are a different length (longer, I think) and will have an undesirable geometry, with the bar and/or endlink out of this 90 degree alignment, parallel/perpendicular to ground. White stuff around bushings is lithium grease, use this to minimize squeaks.

Also, remember to get a 4-wheel alignment after this install. Good luck!

 

[gar777]

Here's my review: These bars are great, especially when combined with the MSP struts, H&R springs and MSP FSTB. The car corners much flatter, turn in is sharper and there is less understeer than before. The car is more tossable on an autocross course and still very comfortable/controllable on the track--still understeers slightly. There is no noticeable increase in normal, non-cornering ride harshness or noise (although the bushings will need to be regreased every so often to keep them quiet). There is really only upside, no downsides. This is the way all Proteges should have been made!

 

[Kansei]

nice how-to. In your pics I see the conic exhaust flange thing gets replaced. is this the part number for that one? "BP48-40-581A - Exhaust gasket (b/w 2nd cat and resonator section)". I'm installing a new midpipe soon and from my header install I know that it is pretty beat up. That part number is the one on the box right next to it in the picture you took but I just want to confirm before I buy it.

thanks!

 

[gar777]

nice how-to. In your pics I see the conic exhaust flange thing gets replaced. is this the part number for that one? "BP48-40-581A - Exhaust gasket (b/w 2nd cat and resonator section)". I'm installing a new midpipe soon and from my header install I know that it is pretty beat up. That part number is the one on the box right next to it in the picture you took but I just want to confirm before I buy it.

thanks!

yes, BP48-40-581A is the # for the conical gasket in the front of the exhaust section I removed and shown in picture. It's the one where the fitting is done with nuts tightening down over a spring to give the joint some flex, which I think is the reason for the conical shape. I tried to make the description in the parts list above more clear.

 

[Bala]

Good write up! I may be throwing this kit on my P5 AND it's good reference for my MSP because the bars (etc.) need some service(endlinks / bushings).

 

[Bala]

nice how-to. In your pics I see the conic exhaust flange thing gets replaced. is this the part number for that one? "BP48-40-581A - Exhaust gasket (b/w 2nd cat and resonator section)". I'm installing a new midpipe soon and from my header install I know that it is pretty beat up. That part number is the one on the box right next to it in the picture you took but I just want to confirm before I buy it.

thanks!

Hit up ken at protegegarage.com, I got one from him for about $15 shipped.

 

[Kansei]

Hit up ken at protegegarage.com, I got one from him for about $15 shipped.

That'll be order #4 for the month I think.

 

[Laser03pro]

Nice write up I will be doing this very soon when I get some time. I will also have my struts off at the time might be even easier. Did this make it easier to do the rear motor mount cause I will be doing that also? One more thing why did you need to remove the shift rod from the shifter side?