red95_240sx
Member
ive unplugged it b4 with no CEL.
How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix
- Thread starter 122 Vega
- Start date
Protege_Speed
Member
- :
- 2002.5 ES Auto with MSP Conversion
I posted this thread yesterday in regards to a problem I am having. A friend of mine thinks it could be my EGR stuck open. Can you guys take a look at this thread and tell me if you think it may be the EGR or any other ideas on what it might be? Thanks.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3285340#post3285340
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3285340#post3285340
red95_240sx
Member
Ive unplugged my valve, and my idle still bogs sometimes. So...
might work?
I've got a good friend who's a tech by trade and he recommended to clean the MAF & idle air control valve. He said that cleaning both of them should solve the idle problem. My MIL light isn't on but the rough idle is still going...my mpg went to crap also. Damn Mazda!!!
I've got a good friend who's a tech by trade and he recommended to clean the MAF & idle air control valve. He said that cleaning both of them should solve the idle problem. My MIL light isn't on but the rough idle is still going...my mpg went to crap also. Damn Mazda!!!
- :
- 2003.5 MP5 Laser Blue Automatic (SOLD)
yes mazda sux but im dealing with it as i have no money for a honda right now.
- :
- MSP 1145
gotta do it.
rough idle. Fixed???
Cleaned my MAF, didn't help. Cleaned the IAC, made things worse. Cleaned the throttle body and replaced the IAC and it solved the problem. I sell parts wholesale so I get a great deal on parts, $87.00 for the IAC. I have an account that lets me borrow his tools. Next on my list was the EGR boost sensor. Dealer item only, thank goodness this headache is over....for now.
Cleaned my MAF, didn't help. Cleaned the IAC, made things worse. Cleaned the throttle body and replaced the IAC and it solved the problem. I sell parts wholesale so I get a great deal on parts, $87.00 for the IAC. I have an account that lets me borrow his tools. Next on my list was the EGR boost sensor. Dealer item only, thank goodness this headache is over....for now.
red95_240sx
Member
most definately feels better unplugged. did a few test.
rough idle fixed....
I can't say for sure if it will fix your problem. I cleaned both the Throttle Body and replaced the IAC valve at the same time. The stalling was so bad I needed to keep the RPM's up at all times. As of today the idle problem is still there but barely noticeable. Honestly it's been there since I bought the car at 35,000 miles. It's now at 61,000. I like this car but I'm looking at getting another Honda.
I can't say for sure if it will fix your problem. I cleaned both the Throttle Body and replaced the IAC valve at the same time. The stalling was so bad I needed to keep the RPM's up at all times. As of today the idle problem is still there but barely noticeable. Honestly it's been there since I bought the car at 35,000 miles. It's now at 61,000. I like this car but I'm looking at getting another Honda.
Sunshine Unit
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege DX 2000 "Champagne"
...Where ?!
So... I've seen that most of u guys were able to find, remove and clean the EGR valve, not like me... (bow)
I have a 1.6 protege 2000 and I really can't find where the valve is located...
Please HELP me to find it... I would be soooooooooooooooooooo happy (drinks)
So... I've seen that most of u guys were able to find, remove and clean the EGR valve, not like me... (bow)
I have a 1.6 protege 2000 and I really can't find where the valve is located...
Please HELP me to find it... I would be soooooooooooooooooooo happy (drinks)
Just wanted to post my $0.02:
At this point everyone is well aware that this is a simple procedure with clear instructions for removing the valve in the first post. However, I discovered that the cleaning instructions were a little oversimplified. Brakcleen or intake/TB cleaner is not sufficient to remove carbon build-up. You must use a wire brush or stiff plastic brush to get at the carbon. Brakcleen or TB cleaner is necessary to loosen the carbon but not sufficient to remove it.
I figured out a way to get the carbon out by improvising a brush, but if I had read it in the OP I would have been prepared with a proper wire brush.
I was not suffering from rough idle, rather I think I was experiencing pinging when I went WOT at moderate RPM. I ran a can of BG 44K at nearly the same time so its difficult to say which one effected the pinging, but the combination has successfully removed the pinging, at least for now.
At this point everyone is well aware that this is a simple procedure with clear instructions for removing the valve in the first post. However, I discovered that the cleaning instructions were a little oversimplified. Brakcleen or intake/TB cleaner is not sufficient to remove carbon build-up. You must use a wire brush or stiff plastic brush to get at the carbon. Brakcleen or TB cleaner is necessary to loosen the carbon but not sufficient to remove it.
I figured out a way to get the carbon out by improvising a brush, but if I had read it in the OP I would have been prepared with a proper wire brush.
I was not suffering from rough idle, rather I think I was experiencing pinging when I went WOT at moderate RPM. I ran a can of BG 44K at nearly the same time so its difficult to say which one effected the pinging, but the combination has successfully removed the pinging, at least for now.
If you have done the procedure as Vega stated in the OP, then there is not much left to do but squeeze your hand in there. I had do some funny maneuvering with the tool to get my hand in there. IIRC, I even had to pass the tool down from above once my right hand was in position.
It will also help to feel around for the bolts without a tool in your hand. They are in a different position then I thought they'd be. Plus the positioning of the wrench handle is tricky. Once broken loose, I was able to unscrew them by hand the rest of the way. Remember to retrieve the metal gasket.
The plug is a pain. I usually jam a small screwdriver in between the clip mechanism and pull and wiggle until it comes off. I end up jamming the screwdriver from both directions cause I can never remember which one allows the connector to, um, disconnect.
EGR replacement pain in the ass
Hi thanks for the reply, I am trying to do as Vega noted in his how to, but not sure why this is so hard for me. I say that, but I am not a mechanic. On dirt bikes yes, basic stuff yes, houses yes but the car is very tough. I honestly don't know which hose Vega is speaking of right in the beginning I was looking, and I see two hoses that are in the way but nothing more than that wire plug.
I tried to jam my screw driver in, but I just didn't have the room to get it in. Maybe it's my fingers which are long but sometimes that's not a good thing.
I started doubting myself meaning I am not 100% sure I'm trying to remove the correct item although it surely seems like it's correct not since I'm saying that, here's my procedure 1. I took the air hose out the large five then I wanted to pull the wire plug off but I was afraid of breaking something as some have a quick release and I wasn't sure. I was able to loosen the nut on the left but damn if I could get the socket on the right. (I couldn't even get a 12mm wrench working down there not sure if my wrenches are odd because they are offset or if it's me not removing all the hoses. On the hose is Vega referring to the one to the left of the EGR which ends below the air filter box?
Thanks again, I dig this site. BTW, your car looks sweet white is a nice color.
Hi thanks for the reply, I am trying to do as Vega noted in his how to, but not sure why this is so hard for me. I say that, but I am not a mechanic. On dirt bikes yes, basic stuff yes, houses yes but the car is very tough. I honestly don't know which hose Vega is speaking of right in the beginning I was looking, and I see two hoses that are in the way but nothing more than that wire plug.
I tried to jam my screw driver in, but I just didn't have the room to get it in. Maybe it's my fingers which are long but sometimes that's not a good thing.
I started doubting myself meaning I am not 100% sure I'm trying to remove the correct item although it surely seems like it's correct not since I'm saying that, here's my procedure 1. I took the air hose out the large five then I wanted to pull the wire plug off but I was afraid of breaking something as some have a quick release and I wasn't sure. I was able to loosen the nut on the left but damn if I could get the socket on the right. (I couldn't even get a 12mm wrench working down there not sure if my wrenches are odd because they are offset or if it's me not removing all the hoses. On the hose is Vega referring to the one to the left of the EGR which ends below the air filter box?
Thanks again, I dig this site. BTW, your car looks sweet white is a nice color.
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I probably should take a look under my hood before answering but I'm going to take a stab at annswering anyway. I think when you say "the air hose out the large five" you mean take the intake section that runs between the throttle body and the airbox. This is held on with two screw-type hose clamps. There are two items connected to this. The first is a small diameter black vacuum (?) line. Remove it at the hard plastic elbow fitting. The second is a sensor which is connected by a metal stake which sits in a slot in the intake. I pulled the stake out of the intake instead of disconnecting it at another connection.
Once the intake is off you will have to remove the three wire plug shown tucked out of the way in this picture:
That's the one I pry apart with a small screwdriver.
Now, once everything is out of the way, you still will be working in a pretty tight space. I was def unconfortable with the hand position. But once the bolts are broken loose they come out easily without a tool.
If you still have problems or are confused when I reference a part, just let me know and I will snap a fe pictures showing you what I'm talking about.
