Hey bro thanks, I did finally get it out the plug was interesting, I viewed the service manual and it showed the different plugs and how to remove. The plug on the EGR needs to be squeezed in towards the wireds then the plug comes out easy.... Then I took a 1/4" ratchet drive and got it in and got the bolts loose what a relief. Once I got that out I used an electric drill to get the 4 phillips off as I have a torn ligament in each thumb so I have no hand strength. Anyway, I used a dremel tool to clean the inside of the EGR valve including a wire brush piece on the dremel that was huge, it really cleaned it up. I then used the Brake Kleen and the Carb cleaner stuff finally I always use some lube on the screws and luckily got it back in it was really hard. but I did it have to say I had a Rocky moment. Anyway, to my surprise the ******* check engine light is still on. I read Vega reset the PCM but here's a new adventure, anyone know how a dumb ass like me can do it?
How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix
- Thread starter 122 Vega
- Start date
Disconnect the battery and either: 1) leave the dome light on, or 2) pump the brakes to activate your brake lights. With either procedure the point is to drain the electrical system of all power. Leave the battery disconnected for about 5 minutes then reconnect. This will fix your CEL and allow the computer to relearn its EGR routine. There's no set time for this but if after 150 or so miles your CEL returns then you can be pretty sure there something else wrong. It could be the EGR solenoid, but def something besides the valve itself sticking.
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
clean the IAC while you're in there!!
What is the IAC? I will try the battery disconnect I was thinking the same thing. am so serious I'm an full on old neophyte... btw the guy who has the Red P5 with black hood that car looks really nice.
I wish I was young like you guys and the time and money to make this car scream, I drove my bosses EVO Lancer with the V6 and man that was a fun car 5 speed and in 2nd I was doing 90 that was outragous...
I wish I was young like you guys and the time and money to make this car scream, I drove my bosses EVO Lancer with the V6 and man that was a fun car 5 speed and in 2nd I was doing 90 that was outragous...
What's an IAC?
IAC. Idle Air Control motor. Be careful those IAC screws strip out easy. Let the motor cool off.
IAC. Idle Air Control motor. Be careful those IAC screws strip out easy. Let the motor cool off.
OOPs spoke too soon F....ing check light went out came on went out and now it's back... F...ing driving me crazy today drove to San Diego and just floored it... I was flooring it to see if there was some carbon build up or something stupid like that that I could blow out but seriously only could floor it for 15-30 seconds at a time due to traffic.
Anyway any suggestions? if I wasn't so sleepy I'd read more I'm sure others have information on the site but if anyone can offer something I'd be most thankful.
btw thanks for the explanation on the IAC...
Anyway any suggestions? if I wasn't so sleepy I'd read more I'm sure others have information on the site but if anyone can offer something I'd be most thankful.
btw thanks for the explanation on the IAC...
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dannyboy17
Member
- :
- MSP Protege
those bolts are friggin TIGHT! I kept trying and trying without luck. Oh well, I gotta get better tools also.
rotorhead22
Member
I was helping my nephew change out his timing belt and we had a severe idle problem after startup. I remembered that he connected the battery with the key on and there was a series of clicks. I knew we had the timing right because we checked it several times. After reviewing this thread for about an hour, i thought that it would do no harm to pull the IAC valve out and have a look. Bingo, it was carboned up really good. I cleaned it off dry first then used some cleaner. I looked down the TB and saw that it was pretty nasty also and cleaned it. The beast started right up and idled. I drove it for about 30 minutes in stop and go traffic and had no problems other than the idle was rough at times. I will suggest that a new EGR valve should be bought.
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kyle's protege5
Member
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- 2002 MP5-T
can a mod please unsubscribe me from the painfull thread. I've tried twice to no avail.
I can no longer keep reading about people thinking that if they clean a valve that lets exhaust back into their intake their car will run better. The best thing for you car is if the damn thing plugs up completely.
IT IS PURELY FOR EMISSIONS. It just reburns exhaust again to make it cleaner. There is not a lot of oxygen in exhaust (like none really) so tell me how putting it in your intake is a good thing.
Take it off, plug it, make a block off plate, whatever, just disable the thing. Then your car will run good.
I can no longer keep reading about people thinking that if they clean a valve that lets exhaust back into their intake their car will run better. The best thing for you car is if the damn thing plugs up completely.
IT IS PURELY FOR EMISSIONS. It just reburns exhaust again to make it cleaner. There is not a lot of oxygen in exhaust (like none really) so tell me how putting it in your intake is a good thing.
Take it off, plug it, make a block off plate, whatever, just disable the thing. Then your car will run good.
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dannyboy17
Member
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- MSP Protege
Thats what Im doing on the 626 manifold that Im installing soon.
Some would say that without EGR you'll run lean and have EGT and detonation problems. Best arguement I can make to support that is that our cars run rich, expecting to get some gas back through the exhaust.
If you have standalone management, no problem, but I'd be careful with the stock ECU.
Also, it should be noted that the EGR is not active at idle or WOT, so you shouldn't see a decrease in performance while using the EGR.
If you have standalone management, no problem, but I'd be careful with the stock ECU.
Also, it should be noted that the EGR is not active at idle or WOT, so you shouldn't see a decrease in performance while using the EGR.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
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- New Caney TX
^Unless it's gooked up or bad and the plunger does not seal closed.
EGR valve problem
I have a 2002 protege5 and i got the EGR valves problem ..code : (P-401 EGR problem) Mazda had replaced my valve for free. So simply go to a mazda dealer. They will replace your EGR valve for free (if it's really your problem). Too much mazda have this problem. They won't recall all the models that have the problem but they will replace any EGR valves on protege for free (ask your dealer for the years that they a replacing the EGR..i think it's between 2000 and 2003...but im not sure)
Apology my english ...im frech
I have a 2002 protege5 and i got the EGR valves problem ..code : (P-401 EGR problem) Mazda had replaced my valve for free. So simply go to a mazda dealer. They will replace your EGR valve for free (if it's really your problem). Too much mazda have this problem. They won't recall all the models that have the problem but they will replace any EGR valves on protege for free (ask your dealer for the years that they a replacing the EGR..i think it's between 2000 and 2003...but im not sure)
Apology my english ...im frech
Good point. I need to take mine apart and inspect. I'm throwing lean codes and had an abnormally rough idle this morning (and at random times in the past year).
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kyle's protege5
Member
- :
- 2002 MP5-T
I have a wideband 02 sensor. Car does not run leaner at all with the egr gone. Also our cars do not run rich. 14.7 is as perfect as you can get, and thats what ours do pretty much dead on.
Maybe one person has a "standalone" everybody else has whats known as a "piggyback". They just modify the signal to the injectors and spark plug timing. They dont touch egr sensors. I blocked off my egr at aboput 3000 miles on my car. Did not have a turbo for another yr or so and then did not get the emanage for about 1 1/2yrs after that. Car ran fine from the very begining with no egr valve. (took the damn cats off too!)
And lastly you are correct the egr does not open at idle, but im 90% sure it does at WOT and in the upper throtle position. That way you supposedly dont notice when its dumping that crappy ass, oxygen deleted, carbon monoxide, soot filled crap back into your motor.
when its "clogged up" it just means there is soot and carbon under the valve seat (the same crap is also building up in your intake and on and around your intake valves) and it wont close, so you are always putting exhaust back into your intake.
The easiest way for most to "take it off" is to take it off, make a new gasket for it with NO HOLES in it other than the bolt holes. Then just put it back on. Then you dont have to worry about making a plate to cover the hole, and a plug for the mani, if you take it off completely. If yours is not clogged where it does not seal, but you just want to make it stop opening and letting that crap in your motor, just unplug the wire harness plugged into it.
Im at 40,000 now so 37000 miles with no egr, and I'll send you a pic next time i can, my intake is spotless inside.
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