How long for cold a/c?

I've noticed that the AC in my CX-5 pumps out cold air only if I have the temperature setting at 68 deg. or less (if it's hot out I set it to 66 deg until the car cools off, then reset to the actual desired temp). If it's above that point, the air that comes out is "somewhat cool" but not cold. When I set it for cold air, I'd say the cold air is almost immediate (within 1 minute). Of course I'm not subject to Az temps, and when it's sunny out I do use a reflective sun shade.

I live in the bay area and always have my climate control set between 70-73. I've never had an issue with the unit providing air that was too hot or too cold. I spent a good part of Saturday driving around and noticed that outside temps were reading from 80-100 degrees. I had my climate control set to 71 the whole time and was surprised when I saw the outside temp was 99 while sitting at the In-N-Out drive through, where the guy was outside taking orders. I put my hand to the windshield and moon roof just to see what it felt like, and it was HOT! The air blowing out never felt ice cold, but it also didn't need to be because inside the cabin I was comfortable at what I'm assuming was 71 degrees. I drive a 2015, so not sure if that has anything to do with it.
 
Hey guys, I live in Arizona and the heat is ridiculous. It's currently 109F outside and it seems my AC takes upwards of 5-10 minutes before it feel colder than body temperature. My G35 was cold within 30 seconds. Does anyone here in a hot climate have the same issue? The car has 45k miles on it (black 2013 cx-5 gt)

Eh, it can take a minute. It varies by vehicle. You have to keep in mind, though, that ducting temperature will have a large impact, as well. As long as it gets comfortable, I'd say it's fine. I have a former roommate who had a Chevy Cruze, and his never cooled off sometimes in your kind of weather, even though he took it to the dealer multiple times and all was pronounced in working order.

My advice is ceramic tint. I have always used it on my vehicles, and have not been disappointed.
 
Having a white car and tinted windows (not ceramic tint like my old cx5) it still gets extra hot (+100 here too). I found using the recirc function on the ac helps initially since the dash radiates a lot of heat. Invest in a quality window shade ( the fitted one) and use it regiously lol. Consider getting alevel of tint if you dont have it already. Old my old cx5 which was a darker color i had ceramic tint and that s*** worked wonders. However i did not want to pay the premium for it this time.

I have found that even "clear" ceramic works better than the darkest of limo tint with conventional tints.
 
The way you describe your Honda is how my CX-5 behaves. With a high temperature differential between observed and desired temp (usually for me 72) my fan cranks automatically to near max, it goes to recirc. and airflow directed out the dash vents only. As it gets closer to setpoint, fan speed decreases and eventually it switches to outside air. Of course if I change the air flow speed or airflow mode, all bets are off, since its no longer in full auto.

Yesterday it was very hot here and I noticed that CX-5 ac started almost at full speed and then slowed down as it neared the set temperature. So, I know it is working. But, the 'rate' of cooling is still substantially slower than my previous car. Because of this, CX-5 takes longer to reach the set temperature once the car is started. This makes for a somewhat uncomfortable first few minutes in hot Texas summer drives.
 
Very true, Had ceramic installed on both my cars. Night and day difference in summers.
I neglected to mention, because it isn't a fair comparison, my 3 with ceramic tint doesn't necessarily cool quicker, but cools more effectively, and once cool, can be maintained at a much lower fan speed setting. The 3 has way less space in the cabin to cool, but it is quite obvious the tint really improved AC effectiveness.

I keep trying to get my wife to tint her CX-5, but she for some reason doesn't want to do it.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
Gone are the days of your mothers 1980s buick wih R12 air conditioner. That thing would freeze you out before pulling out of the driveway. All cars since R12 phase out have had inferior AC.

The CX-5 has the lamest AC I've owned. It works, after several minutes of driving, but barely adequate. The fan speed is too low is worst problem. On a road trip, it will get very cold after 30 minutes, no matter how hot outside.

Best solution is to park it in the shade so you don't have a heat soaked car to cool down. That works wonders.

When will technology come up with a refrigerant as good as R12?
 
Last edited:
The fan speed is too low is worst problem. On a road trip, it will get very cold after 30 minutes, no matter how hot outside.

Have you tried cleaning your cabin air filter? It sounds like it might be plugged. Mine flowed a lot more air w/ new filter.
 
Weird, I'm Texan and both I and my g/f find the cx-5 cooling to be excellent and rapid, even in full sun on 105 degree day. Subjective preferences I guess. I keep my house around 78 inside too.
 
Welp, I think there is a problem with my AC. It doesn't blow cold...at all. Even though I have it on re-circulation, on AC, on 60 degrees, and fan setting on max. I noticed this during my 1300 mile road trip. We actually had to open the windows, because the AC was blowing room temperature/slightly hot air.

I just went out and drove around with the AC on as described above. When I got home I used a temperature gun and shot it into the AC vents, all readings were around 90 degrees. I spot tested random interior parts of the car, where the AC would hit, and the car interior was around 100 degrees.

I never had this problem before...this seems to be a recent occurrence.

The soonest I can go to the dealer is a week and a half. ugh.
 
I am trying to troubleshoot my AC.

Does anyone experience a slight shake roughly every 30-45 seconds when they have their AC on and are in park/idling?

also, on low fan settings with the AC, can you hear any type of muffled hissing sound from the AC?
 
AC blows cold within 3-5 minutes but, to cool the vehicle take longer depending on interior temp. Ed
 
UPDATE:

I went to show a coworker my AC issue, so I started the car, turned the AC on, and as soon as I turned the AC on, the car shook for a few seconds, then the check engine light came on. The AC stayed on, and was blowing cold, but every 30-45 seconds the car shakes. The tach doesn't really read any dip when this happens, but with the hood popped open, it sounds like the engine loses power briefly, causing the shake.

I brought the car to a local mechanic who tried to read the code and he said there was no code to read. He was just guessing there is either an issue with the MAF sensor, throttle body, or the compressor itself. He left the light up for me, I have an appointment to bring it to the dealer on Thursday. He thinks for some reason the compressor is drawing too many amps causing a power dip, which is causing the shake.

It drives fine, with the AC on or off. The shake only happens when the AC is on and when idled/parked.

Any thoughts?
 
Hey guys, I live in Arizona and the heat is ridiculous. It's currently 109F outside and it seems my AC takes upwards of 5-10 minutes before it feel colder than body temperature. My G35 was cold within 30 seconds. Does anyone here in a hot climate have the same issue? The car has 45k miles on it (black 2013 cx-5 gt)

I feel ya...literally. I'm in Glendale, AZ and just stayed indoors all weekend (115 degree temps). Both Mazda's are parked in a garage shaded from the sun hence why I can cool the car relatively faster than you. I do notice the 2013 CX-5 with manual AC control does seem to blow colder air than the 2016 Mazda6 electronic AC. I have a sinking suspicion that Mazdas equipped with a manual AC runs cooler quicker than the electronically controlled AC. That said your results in you scenario would be typical (black car, outside, smoldering heat). I wish I could place Toyota's AC unit into my car sometimes.
 
I feel ya...literally. I'm in Glendale, AZ and just stayed indoors all weekend (115 degree temps). Both Mazda's are parked in a garage shaded from the sun hence why I can cool the car relatively faster than you. I do notice the 2013 CX-5 with manual AC control does seem to blow colder air than the 2016 Mazda6 electronic AC. I have a sinking suspicion that Mazdas equipped with a manual AC runs cooler quicker than the electronically controlled AC. That said your results in you scenario would be typical (black car, outside, smoldering heat). I wish I could place Toyota's AC unit into my car sometimes.


I've noticed your both running 2013 cx-5's with 2.0 engines. My g/f actually bought a 3 this weekend also with a 2.0 engine and I noticed on these very hot sunny days it cools better at speed rather than idle, whereas the 2.5 does pretty similar at idle. Could be the 2.0 engines have some differences here.
 
UPDATE:

I went to show a coworker my AC issue, so I started the car, turned the AC on, and as soon as I turned the AC on, the car shook for a few seconds, then the check engine light came on. The AC stayed on, and was blowing cold, but every 30-45 seconds the car shakes. The tach doesn't really read any dip when this happens, but with the hood popped open, it sounds like the engine loses power briefly, causing the shake.

I brought the car to a local mechanic who tried to read the code and he said there was no code to read. He was just guessing there is either an issue with the MAF sensor, throttle body, or the compressor itself. He left the light up for me, I have an appointment to bring it to the dealer on Thursday. He thinks for some reason the compressor is drawing too many amps causing a power dip, which is causing the shake.

It drives fine, with the AC on or off. The shake only happens when the AC is on and when idled/parked.

Any thoughts?
If your CEL is on, there is a code. Even if the code is manufacture specific, the mechanic should be able to get a generic OBD II code. I believe your engine shacking every 30~45 seconds was caused by the AC compressor being kicked on. But why your compressor created such a load and can only run for a short period of time is the culprit the Mazda dealer will need to find out. My guess is somehow your refrigerant pressure was either too high or too low caused by as simple as too much or too little refrigerant or faulty expansion valve near evaporator which triggered the inline pressure sensor to turn off the compressor. As your CX-5 is still fairly new and you just happened to have this problem recently, low refrigerant should be the most likely problem. If that is the case, make sure to have your dealer performing leak test and try to find where the refrigerant leaked out as the refrigerant should not be just disappeared by itself in a closed AC system!

Let us know the result after you visited the dealer and good luck!
 
Welp, I think there is a problem with my AC. It doesn't blow cold...at all. Even though I have it on re-circulation, on AC, on 60 degrees, and fan setting on max. I noticed this during my 1300 mile road trip. We actually had to open the windows, because the AC was blowing room temperature/slightly hot air.

I just went out and drove around with the AC on as described above. When I got home I used a temperature gun and shot it into the AC vents, all readings were around 90 degrees. I spot tested random interior parts of the car, where the AC would hit, and the car interior was around 100 degrees.

I never had this problem before...this seems to be a recent occurrence.

The soonest I can go to the dealer is a week and a half. ugh.

I stuck a probe thermometer in my vents. At full-cold mode (60, re-circ, full fan) after 5 minutes of idle it read 53 in the center vents and 54 in the side.
 
If your CEL is on, there is a code. Even if the code is manufacture specific, the mechanic should be able to get a generic OBD II code. I believe your engine shacking every 30~45 seconds was caused by the AC compressor being kicked on. But why your compressor created such a load and can only run for a short period of time is the culprit the Mazda dealer will need to find out. My guess is somehow your refrigerant pressure was either too high or too low caused by as simple as too much or too little refrigerant or faulty expansion valve near evaporator which triggered the inline pressure sensor to turn off the compressor. As your CX-5 is still fairly new and you just happened to have this problem recently, low refrigerant should be the most likely problem. If that is the case, make sure to have your dealer performing leak test and try to find where the refrigerant leaked out as the refrigerant should not be just disappeared by itself in a closed AC system!

Let us know the result after you visited the dealer and good luck!

I don't know how he didnt pull a code...he had a pretty serious machine, not one of those small generic handheld devices...it was a tablet that he had to put a mazda code computer chip into it. I will still of course be bringing it to the dealer - let them figure it out. It just sucks, that on a car that is 1.5 years old, with 11.5k miles on it - something like this happens. And the AC system is very complicated - lots of things to leak/break.

I stuck a probe thermometer in my vents. At full-cold mode (60, re-circ, full fan) after 5 minutes of idle it read 53 in the center vents and 54 in the side.

Just as I figured, it should be reading much lower - just like when I tested my home AC...when it is set for 68, from inside the vents it reads low 50s.

I will be sure to update this thread when I find out more on Thursday.
 
I've noticed your both running 2013 cx-5's with 2.0 engines. My g/f actually bought a 3 this weekend also with a 2.0 engine and I noticed on these very hot sunny days it cools better at speed rather than idle, whereas the 2.5 does pretty similar at idle. Could be the 2.0 engines have some differences here.

I think all cars' AC units run better when at speed (better air flow to cool engine and more power going to electronics). I don't think its a 2.5 vs 2.0 thing. It's more of the strictly manual knob ac found in lower trims being cooler than the electronically controlled AC units found in higher trim Mazdas.
 
Back