How does claybaring work?

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2006 Tungsten Grey Mazda6 GT I4
Just curious because I plan to pick one up now that I've got a bit of time on summer break. I've heard that it works wonders, but how does it do it? Is it what it sounds like-a bar of clay? I had always thought that clay was rather abrasive, compared to paint at least. How is it used?

Also I'm planning to pick up a bottle of Turtle Wax ICE. So I'll wash the car, dry, claybar, and then put the ICE on. Anything wrong with that? Not missing a critical step, am I? :)

Thanks.
 
The clay is synthetic and non abrasive. It works by pulling the contaminants off the paint surface and imbedding them in the clay so as not to scratch the paint. Works, but takes a while.

As for your method, nothing really wrong with it. I prefer to go straight from clay bar to wax to avoid more water spots under the wax. But, many choose to wash it again before waxing. Nothing wrong with that either.
 
Actually, clay bars are full of very tiny abrasives. That's what makes them work. The various grades of clay represent different sized abrasives. Things like Meg's overspray clay will have relatively large abrasives, while the Sonus Ultra-Fine clay has the tiniest abrasives of any clay bar. It's meant to be used on surfaces that are well-maintained and frequently clayed.
To prove that clay is abrasive, you could always rub it on your paint without adequate lubrication. :) Not recommended, but it will prove that it's abrasive when you see the tiny scratches caused by it.

The clay is not your typical clay found in your backyard so don't think of it as such. It's a synthetic blend of plastic components and other stuff.

You can wax right after claying without a problem. The only thing to check for first is that there is no leftover clay residue on the paint. If there is, be sure to wipe it off before waxing. You could just wash it again to make sure.

Make sure you fold the clay bar into itself at least a couple times per panel to push any contaminants to the inside of the bar. Then knead it flat and start again. And use plenty of lubrication. If the bar is grabbing at all, it's not adequately lubricated.
 
Mmm...thank whomever clay baring. Quick job on my P5 and it's ultra smooth again after the final polish.

Hey Paul, you ever use Liquid Glass? I love the stuff...amazing results. Car is silky smooth.
 
I haven't used it before. I prefer to use protectants that are layerable. LG contains cleaners and abrasives so it could never be layered. It's an all-in-one type product. I can tell you this though...one of my clients has a '70 Camaro and was telling that he's always used LG on it. After I got done with it, doing Clearkote's Red Machine Glaze and Nattys Blue paste wax, he said it looked way better.

Camaro10.jpg


Camaro8.jpg


Ah, sometimes I miss my Maxima...
 
Sweet Camaro. Interesting on the LG product. It has been recomended to me from various sources (Bentley/Rolls Royce in fact) as a final top layer coat. Bottle and website state that it contains no abrasives and can be layered. I've always found this to be true. Any thoughts?
 
I'm pretty sure it has abrasives and cleaners. The description is often misleading.

Some quotes from Autopia after doing a search for Liquid Glass:

"I used Liquid Glass on a 3 month old red Miata and ended up with a lot of red residue on the cloth. A friend tried the same bottle on his black Miata - same result. He returned the Liquid Glass to me and I threw it in the trash. And Liquid Glass is SUPPOSED to be non abrasive??????"

"I use LG on an '04 DeVille and 2000 Tahoe. Both blue. I've never come up with any blue residue.

I had an old ('65) Cadillac that was also blue. I would occassionally get a small amount of blue residue from it but it did not have a clear coat."

This one makes sense because the Deville and Tahoe have clearcoats over them. The old Caddy did not, which explains why he got paint transfer upon application of LG. Applying an abrasive or cleaner to single-stage paint will yield color transfer to the applicator.


"LG is a high solvent abrasive formula..."


The consensus seems to be that it is a solvent-packed polish that is slightly abrasive. It is expensive, and better products can be obtained for the price. However, it seems to be getting good marks regarding durability.
 
Sounds about right from my research too. Still, it has always worked nice for me.
 
If it smells like it contains Petroleum........well.....
If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck........maybe its a duck?
 
i used adams clay bar with the detail spray they give you and WOW so much better IMO the only product thats worth the money not no walmart stuff and compare to this product

adams ftw!
 
viral_override said:

You need to clay that debris on the front left and right of your bumper.

I remember starting a thread on Liquid Glass over on Autopia once. I mocked it saying the can it comes in makes it look like 50 year old technology waits inside. Pretty sure it is. Anyway, some people loved it and some hated it. That's the way with most products I guess. I would never touch that stuff personally. I've heard that removing it is next to impossible.
 

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