Hockey pucks?

[drexer13]

I know this motor mount topic has been beet to death but has anyone thought about drilling holes in hockey pucks to make them less harsh. I just bought a 2003 Protege 5 with a rod knock. All the parts are at the machinist so I'm looking at things that need to be replaced and upgraded while the engine is out. All four of the mounts are shot so I thought I would throw some hockey pucks in and call it good. Then I remembered that this car is going to be driven by my wife and she's a little more particular then I am when it comes to rattling cars.

Any thoughts?

 

[CTt3P5]

Never hear of this 'option'. While the motor is out I'd just buy new mounts all around and call it a day.

 

[pcb]

My mounts are shot too. I'm just going to squeeze some window weld into the hollow spots of the mounts and call it a day.

I'm not even going to bother removing the mounts from the car. I'm certainly not going to try to remove the rear one.

I've got some urethane rubber that I might try to cut and fabricate into inserts as well.

We'll see how it goes.

My brother in law says he hears a rattling/clunking sound when I start the car. I guess it was just a sound I didn't want to hear.

I've heard of using hockey pucks for lift kits but not for engine mounts.

I think you'ld have a pretty rough ride and they might crack or wear quickly.

 

[drexer13]

I have used hockey pucks for mounts on a few cars (Mostly hondas) They last forever and help a lot with torque steer and wheel hop. The problem is they are very stiff, and don't absorb much vibration when the car is idling.
The problem with new mounts is your just replacing a crappy mount with another crappy mount that isn't broken yet. Im just trying to find a happy medium and was hoping some one else had tried this.

 

[Cheap5]

Are the aftermarket mounts that harsh? What if you were just to replace the rear with an awr and the others with stock.

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

Inserts are a great compromise, and you have a good selection of durometers. I would look into that rather than a hockey puck.

 

[clement_ghost]

I got myself a full AWR motor mount kit, but one of my friend up here with his KL-ZE 1999 protege did tried the blue hockey pucks. The color fit with his vavle cover and other accessories... But the most important is that they are reliable and less stiff than the black ones.

 

[rit14623]

I know this motor mount topic has been beet to death but has anyone thought about drilling holes in hockey pucks to make less harsh. I just bought a 2003 Protege 5 with a rod knock. All the parts are at the machinist so I'm looking at things that need to be replaced and upgraded while the engine is out. All four of the mounts are shot so I thought I would throw some hockey pucks in and call it good. Then I remembered that this car is going to be driven by my wife and she's a little more particular then I am when it comes to rattling cars.

Any thoughts?

Well, I play hockey. The puck is vulcanized rubber. They are really stiff compared to CorkSport polyurethane motor mount inserts. So, I installed just the front and back motor mount inserts and the car vibrated constantly. I replaced the front motor mount with a new one and so with only a polyurethane motor mount insert in the rear mount, it vibrates only during idle.
I think with pucks, you'll get super stiff mounts so that all engine vibrations will be absorbed by the car. I had a car like that.

 

[drexer13]

I got myself a full AWR motor mount kit, but one of my friend up here with his KL-ZE 1999 protege did tried the blue hockey pucks. The color fit with his vavle cover and other accessories... But the most important is that they are reliable and less stiff than the black ones.

That's interesting, The blue pucks are 4 oz instead of 6 oz so it makes sense that they would be less dense and probably a bit softer. I wonder if they would absorb more vibration if I drilled a few small holes around the outside?

 

[Ltlrdwagon]

I did the honda special on my side mounts (filled them with 3m window weld.) My front and rear have corksport inserts, but the sides are pretty solid, and for about 20 bux was worth it over spending money for new mounts.

 

[drexer13]

I did the honda special on my side mounts (filled them with 3m window weld.) My front and rear have corksport inserts, but the sides are pretty solid, and for about 20 bux was worth it over spending money for new mounts.

That might be an option. How does the car feel at idle?

 

[pcb]

I'm calling mine fixed...

 

[drexer13]

I'm calling mine fixed...

Thats pretty sweet(lol2). I've never done the "jam a wood block in" mod but I've heard its pretty effective.

 

[pcb]

That's actually two chunks of urethane rubber. It's got some cushion.

 

[Maroon]

Have you compared the diameters of the mount and the puck? Just wondering if you would have to trim the OD of the puck which would be difficult if you didn't have a lathe.

I need to replace at least one mount, but they're obscenely expensive How does Mazda get away with charging ridiculous prices for garbage parts?

 

[drexer13]

Have you compared the diameters of the mount and the puck? Just wondering if you would have to trim the OD of the puck which would be difficult if you didn't have a lathe.

I need to replace at least one mount, but they're obscenely expensive How does Mazda get away with charging ridiculous prices for garbage parts?

Hockey pucks are 3" in diameter. One of the mounts measured pretty close, two are much smaller and the one on the driver side was to big. I'm not sure what to do there. I might just end up filling them with pl and see how long it lasts. Im actually very interested in where pcb got his chunks of urethane rubber. It seems like that might be a good material to use.

The hockey pucks are not hard to trim. I use a cheap hole saw set from harbor freight and a drill press.

The stock mounts are over priced especially if you take into account that they don't hold the motor very well, and wear out relatively quickly.

 

[clement_ghost]

At worse, use windshield urethane. It's stiff but also always stays flexible.

 

[pcb]

Im actually very interested in where pcb got his chunks of urethane rubber. It seems like that might be a good material to use.

This is the chunk of rubber I used. I actually found it washed up on the beach. I figured it might come in handy for something. It probably fell off a ship ??

I wedged a crowbar between the engine and the bottom brace to open up the gap in the engine mount. Then I forced a piece of that rubber through the gap. Once I removed the crowbar it got pinched in there pretty good,... I don't think it's going anywhere.

If I didn't have that piece of rubber I would have tried a piece of bicycle or car tire,... maybe a piece of rollerblade wheel ???

It only took me about twenty minutes to do, I didn't have to remove anything or spend money and it made a noticeable difference.

 

[kosteniuks17]

Idk, might be just me but I think this idea has some creativeness and clever engineering but come on, you can buy a full set of new mounts on ebay with a lifetime warranty for 100 bucks. Thats what I did, no rattles, no noises, solid mounts, and you have a peace of mind rather than dealing with it again in the next year. I know 100 bucks is a hundred bucks, but im sure all of your cars have over 100,000 miles, so I would say do yourself a favor and just get new mounts, its finally time. And it probably easier to install those than the time it would take to cut and fabricate a hockey puck. I mean the window weld sounds like a temp. idea, but if your putting hockey pucks in there you might as well just do it right. Just my opinion, but still give credit for the thought behind it. But in terms of material, yah its a more dense rubber, but its an overall different polymer as well. Engine mounts insert use a copolymer (isoprene and isobutylene) where as hockey pucks are just vulcanized rubber. AKA vulcanization is utilizes sulfur to bind the C-H chains togethere resulting in the extremely dense strong material. The problem is with using the puck is that it lacks compression qualities for going over bumps, etc and thus could result in higher stresses on all the mounts where as the engine mounts materials use polymers specifically designed to undergo extreme absorption taking extreme stresses off the mounts themselves. Still your call....

 

[pcb]

I agree with that but in my case, I didn't even notice that my motor mount was shot. (it was my brother in law that noticed a clunk and a guy on this forum that pointed out my mount was shot from a picture I posted on a different thread). It's probably been shot since the day I bought the car, (four years ago now). I drive like an old man (I guess technically I am one now) and I've never had wheel hop.

The only thing I noticed was that if I didn't clutch it just right, it would sort of pound and I'd have to start over. My cheesy inserts made a noticeable difference. My mounts weren't ripped so I think they should last for a while. If they fall out or crap out I'll deal with it next year. If they're still in there next year I'll trim them and glue them and make them look a little better.


I change my oil every 3000 miles, I've replaced coils, plugs, wires and many other components that were working fine,... but in this case I decided to fudge it a little (maybe a lot).

I made my own shifter bushings too,... 35 dollars plus shipping handling taxes and duties seems ridiculous to me for a small simple bushing.