Good 5 Channel Amps

jwangyue

Member
I want to get a system in my new 3. Since I don't want the hassle of having to run two amps (power, grounding, distribution box etc... ) I thinking about getting a good 5 channel amps with 4 +1 configuration. I know Alpine MRV-F450 and JL 500/5 fit this catogory, but their sub power seems a bit on the anemic side. Kicker KX700.5 has a lot more power.

Questions:

1. Are these amps good to get or should I just go through the trouble of getting 2 amps. If for 2 amps, what are some advantages over these 4+1 amps?

2. What are some other brands of amps that fit into this category? These three are the only ones I can find. Could you also includes the pricing for the amps as well?

3. What is the current pricing for this kind of amps. Particularly what is the price for JL 500/5 and Kicker KX700.5?

Thank you very much.
 
It is really not necessary to power your rear speakers. If you send good clean power to a set of components up front and a subwoofer in the rear you will be more than happy with how it sounds. This type of configuration can be done with a 4 channel amp by bridging the rear channels. A 4-75 watt amp could give you 75 watts to your front speakers and roughly 300 to a subwoofer while costing far less than a comparable 5-channel amp. If you still want rear speakers you can continue to power them off the head unit.
 
memphis belle is like the best 5 channel amp

a 5 channel is an excellent way to go. i was about to get a belle myself. but it also depends on how much power you need... so how much power do you need?
 
AFaceInTheCrowd said:
memphis belle is like the best 5 channel amp

a 5 channel is an excellent way to go. i was about to get a belle myself. but it also depends on how much power you need... so how much power do you need?

not very much. I don't want to get deaf yet. I say 75W/channel RMS would be more than enough.
 
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chuyler1 said:
It is really not necessary to power your rear speakers. If you send good clean power to a set of components up front and a subwoofer in the rear you will be more than happy with how it sounds. This type of configuration can be done with a 4 channel amp by bridging the rear channels. A 4-75 watt amp could give you 75 watts to your front speakers and roughly 300 to a subwoofer while costing far less than a comparable 5-channel amp. If you still want rear speakers you can continue to power them off the head unit.

Very good point. However, is this configration stable? I mean using 4 Oh for front and 2 Oh for sub?

Which four channel amplifier would you recommand. Good value for the money type. Not those really cheap ones, but not premium ones, either. Thanks.
 
chuyler1 said:
It is really not necessary to power your rear speakers. If you send good clean power to a set of components up front and a subwoofer in the rear you will be more than happy with how it sounds. This type of configuration can be done with a 4 channel amp by bridging the rear channels. A 4-75 watt amp could give you 75 watts to your front speakers and roughly 300 to a subwoofer while costing far less than a comparable 5-channel amp. If you still want rear speakers you can continue to power them off the head unit.

I don't think I need rear speakers, either. I guess I was new to this, and thought that if you bridge two rear channel, you are only going to get 150W :) How does that work?
 
Check out the Audison SRx3 3ch amp. 2x75w + 1x250 @4ohm.
sub ch can be run at 2ohm for 315-340wrms.
Very clean amp and can be had for a reasonable price.
 
the one bridged and 2 normal stereo setup is pretty common and won't cause any stability issues, realy. Think of a 4chanel amp as 2 seperate 2 channel amps under one heatsink. AS long as it's 4ohm bridged stable (and I don't know of any that aren't really) you're good. the inbalance as it were is really not an issue.

AS far as power ratings go, it's weird, but output climbs ALOT when you bridge because you're essentially changing impedance as well. So a 4x75w at 4ohm amp say would put out 150w if it were 8ohm bridged. BUt at 4ohm bridged, you'll essentially get what adding both channels 2ohm ratings would be so say 2ohm rating is 120w, you should expect 240w bridged if that makes any sense.
 
Poseur said:
the one bridged and 2 normal stereo setup is pretty common and won't cause any stability issues, realy. Think of a 4chanel amp as 2 seperate 2 channel amps under one heatsink. AS long as it's 4ohm bridged stable (and I don't know of any that aren't really) you're good. the inbalance as it were is really not an issue.

AS far as power ratings go, it's weird, but output climbs ALOT when you bridge because you're essentially changing impedance as well. So a 4x75w at 4ohm amp say would put out 150w if it were 8ohm bridged. BUt at 4ohm bridged, you'll essentially get what adding both channels 2ohm ratings would be so say 2ohm rating is 120w, you should expect 240w bridged if that makes any sense.

That's the one. I forgot about when you bridge the amps, you are not only chaning the power, you are also changing the impendence. Thanks a lot.
 
jwangyue said:
Very good point. However, is this configration stable? I mean using 4 Oh for front and 2 Oh for sub?

Which four channel amplifier would you recommand. Good value for the money type. Not those really cheap ones, but not premium ones, either. Thanks.
Every amp on the market can handle 2ohms per channel. As mentioned above a 4-channel amp is essentially two 2-channel amps.

When you bridge, you want to give it a 4ohm total load so each channel receives 2ohms. (Some amps can handle lower impedences but not many) Make sure you purchase the correct impedence subs to do this. If you decide to go with a 5-channel that has a mono sub channel you will want a 2ohm total load instead. So basically, pick the amp before you pick the subs.

In order for us to recommend equipment you need to tell us a little bit about your self...well, we don't care if you like long walks on the beach and candle light dinners but more specifically...

How much do you want to spend between your amp, subs, and speakers?
Do you plan on doing everything at once or will you purchase things gradually over time?
Do you plan on installing everything yourself or is installation included in your overall budget?
Are you a handyman when it comes to building speaker boxes?
Do you have any equipment you wish to incorporate into your install?
Is sound quality (SQ) more important that sound volume (SPL)?
Finally, what type of music do you listen to on a regular basis?
 
chuyler1 said:
Every amp on the market can handle 2ohms per channel. As mentioned above a 4-channel amp is essentially two 2-channel amps.

When you bridge, you want to give it a 4ohm total load so each channel receives 2ohms. (Some amps can handle lower impedences but not many) Make sure you purchase the correct impedence subs to do this. If you decide to go with a 5-channel that has a mono sub channel you will want a 2ohm total load instead. So basically, pick the amp before you pick the subs.

In order for us to recommend equipment you need to tell us a little bit about your self...well, we don't care if you like long walks on the beach and candle light dinners but more specifically...

How much do you want to spend between your amp, subs, and speakers?
Do you plan on doing everything at once or will you purchase things gradually over time?
Do you plan on installing everything yourself or is installation included in your overall budget?
Are you a handyman when it comes to building speaker boxes?
Do you have any equipment you wish to incorporate into your install?
Is sound quality (SQ) more important that sound volume (SPL)?
Finally, what type of music do you listen to on a regular basis?


Thanks for the info:

Answer to your questions:
I don't intend to spend too much. My focus is good value for the money. What I am thinking aobut now: Infinity REF6800CS in the front, and a single sub either KAPPA PERFECT12.1D/or KAPPA PERFECT10.1D in a sealed encloure. These seems to be pretty good value for the money. I am going to keep my stock HU and mostly likely run my rear speakers through it. Amp is the only thing I am not sure about. I don't want to hassle of two amps if the sound quality and equipment longivity is not effected. I planned to spend about $1500CND on the project.

I am hoping to get everything done at once since there is not a lot of stuff.

Installion will be included in my budget. That is why I want as little hassle as possible. I am new to car audio. I will not be building any speaker box myself. One of my friends has recommended me to the installer that did his car.

There is nothing else I want to include. Only the front componet, a single sub, and amp.

I am more into SQ not volumn. I want to feel my base but don't want to boombox car.

I listen to mostly soft rock, pop, and sometimes hip hop and R&B.
 
Look in the $1000 challenge, should be set pretty good there for ideas. THose speakers are decent, but as the chorus goes around here, make sure you go listen to speakers first. And don't fele you NEED to stay with 6x8' or whatever. 6.5's fit with fairly little fuss. As far as the box goes, if you're going sealed, it's pretty easy to build one, and that frees up alot of budget. Notsure what else for installation you're looking to have done, but most of what you've mentioned is fairly easily accomplishable with a little bit of searching this forum and a couple back'n fourth questions.
 
Based on your listening preferences I would go with the 10" sub to save space over the 12" sub. I looked up some prices on www.Crutchfield.com and this is what you're working with so far:

Infinity Reference 6800cs - 179.99
Infinity Perfect 10.1 - 134.99
Q-Logic QLH-CS10 Single 10" Box - 53.99
Total = 368.97

I skimmed through Crutchfield's selection of Amps and none of them stood out as an obvious choice. I am partial to MTX so I would probably choose the MTX Thunder564 ($339) which will send 70 watts to your components and 280 watts to your sub.

The Alpines will give you slightly better SQ but none of them have the power output that would be ideal for the Infinity Perfect. For example, if you went with the Alpine MRV-F340 ($399) you would send 55 watts to your components and only 130 watts to your sub. You pay $60 more for less power, an LCD screen, enhanced noise reduction, subsonic filter (only really needed for ported enclosures) and the Alpine name.

Since you mentioned Kicker in your original post I will mention the Kicker KX-550.3 3-channel amp ($379.99). I don't particularly like Kicker but this amp may suit your needs. It will send 75 watts to your components and 420 watts to your sub from its 3rd channel. Please note that if you choose this amp you will want to purchase the Infinity Perfect 10.1d dual voice coil model to get a 2ohm total load. I think this amp probably has the best value per dollar for what you want to do.

Now, if you are willing to spend the money, the JL Audio 450/4 is a great choice but I think it is about $700, far more expensive than anything else I mentioned. This amp will obviously sound much better than the MTX, Kicker or Alpine and will give you 75 watts for your components and 300 watts for your sub. There is just no comparing this amp to the others...it is simply better and worth the higher price.
 
I have two 10" Sony p5s for sale. They're not wonderful, but as you said, "you're not trying to go deaf."
 
amp-wise I'm ALL for the eclipse PA5422 85X4 or 300x2 I wish I never got rid of mine. SUPER clena straightforward sound. and you shouldn't have to spend TOOmuch on one.
 
Thank you all very much for your advice. I listened to the infinity speakers and they are wonderful. Since my ear are not that trained for the "perfect sound" and I am not trying to shake down my neighbour's house, I could save a lot of money.

There are just so many amps out there to choose from and it is hard to decide.
 
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