Fuel system SOLUTIONS...

[acidbug]

linux...I cut the wires and moved the ait sensor into the fender..this way..no heat can get to it. Which should help the ecu to see colder air..which means more fuel!

Chas

 

[LinuxRacr]

Got visuals?

 

[acidbug]

no pics..not yet..having some new custom pipes made for new turbo..so car is out of commision atleast till tomm.

Chas

 

[LinuxRacr]

Looks like I will be moving my Air Tem Sensor to the fender where my MHP CAI used to get air from. I turned my MBC down to 6 PSI, and will work with that.

 

[smp3000]

hmmm your maps and my maps should probably be pretty similar pat- same turbo- no fmu and in a hot climate.

Let me see if I can haave Beau take a screen shot of my maps. I know I have some holes in them.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Kool, cool. I made some small changes to my map tonight while out driving. Very small changes.

 

[smp3000]

hmmm.. I just took the car out for a drive and I'm for sure running pretty lean under 2.5K rpm's and then while cruising at like 21% throttle as well. Looks like I'll need to make some adjustments.

I really hope this sin't something that gets worse until I reset it each time. Can the ECU be learning it and fighting the settings?

 

[Little Beavis]

Adjust it and go play. . .you might have to readjust it a couple of times, but then you'll be good. . .DO NOT RESET THE ECU, unless you want to keep having to adjust it.

 

[smp3000]

I don't plan on resetting the ecu anytime soon- but all that means is disconnecting he batter for a few minutes right? Sometimes that can't be avoided. \ But as long as the map is saved then it shouldnt' be a big deal to reload- correct?

I wish I could go dirve and play with thenumbers but I dont' have a laptop yet!!! I need to get one quick!

 

[Bigg Tim]

I don't plan on resetting the ecu anytime soon- but all that means is disconnecting he batter for a few minutes right? Sometimes that can't be avoided. \ But as long as the map is saved then it shouldnt' be a big deal to reload- correct?

I wish I could go dirve and play with thenumbers but I dont' have a laptop yet!!! I need to get one quick!

When you disconnect the battery, the ECU goes back to scratch and the map you may have tuned well, might be too rich because the ECU has been reset. The map will be in the MPI, but the ECU will not like it until a drive cycle.

WHat are you considering lean? If you're 14.7, then leave it like that, there's no need for more fuel if you're not in boost.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Relocated Air Temp Sensor.

Here are the details of where I relocated my Air Temp Sensor to today:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/vbb300/showthread.php?p=1079227#post1079227

 

[MPNick]

Here is what we are seeing with the cars we have been working with. Heat soak and fan wash are big problems. You cannot have an open air filter under the hood of these cars. As soon as the cooling fan comes on it will cause "fan wash" This along with the added load will lean out your car.

The air temp sensor should not be under the hood. From Mazda it was in the air filter box. The air came from outside the car and not under the hood. If you have it under the hood it will read the under the hood air temps. This can get well over 250 degrees. With the stock setup you never read more the outside air.

I know some of you have been running it this way without problems. I do not care, it is wrong and it wil cause problems. For some of you this may be the first summer with your turbo car or your reworked MSP. Move the air temp and make a box out of cardboard and test it. You will see much richer afrs.

Thanks again


Later.............Nick

 

[LinuxRacr]

Yesterday testing, it was 91 F ouside. While driving around with my newly relocated AT sensor, the air temperature barely moved above this until the car set for a while without moving. I was getting more fuel too. (thumb)

 

[70]

Yesterday testing, it was 91 F ouside. While driving around with my newly relocated AT sensor, the air temperature barely moved above this until the car set for a while without moving. I was getting more fuel too. (thumb)

Cool, I might have to look into this. The other night I drove around my underhood temp was in the 176 range. I'm not sure what the outside temp was though.

I wish I my scanner when I went to Vail over the weekend. Darn it.

 

[Kooldino]

My IAT is just chilling under the hood. I see 175* or so if I sit for awhile, but usually around 100*F if I'm driving on a hot day.

 

[MPNick]

My IAT is just chilling under the hood. I see 175* or so if I sit for awhile, but usually around 100*F if I'm driving on a hot day.

Thats not chilling. Until the Air temp sensor reads normal temps it is pulling fuel like mad. Because you have the extra injectors you may not see this problem. If it is 85 outside and you are read 100 after driving around it is this not right. I would think that more then a few people did not have fuel system problems when it was cold. Now the summer is here this problem will show up.

I also think you would read alot hotter under the hood temps then 100 degrees on a hot day. Maybe on a loner highway drive the temps will come down that much but short drive around town never drop the temps that much. The air from the rad is almost 200 degrees alone. Most exhaust manifold get around 600 to 800. Yours glows so it must be around 900. You should try to move the air temp sensor and block the air filter from the heat. I think you will like what you find.

Thanks again.


Later............Nick

 

[LinuxRacr]

Well, this morning on the way home, my IAT sensor read 89 F. It was 88 F outside!!! I think I may be doing something along the lines of a CAI setup that pulls air from the same place my IAT sensor is at now (just like when I had the MHP CAI). I think that the hot air from the radiator fans may be screwing with my tuning a little, because when I am up at speed, I can hit the gas, and go rich, but if I am sitting for a a minute or 2, I am a litte leaner out of a stoplight, but it recovers when I start moving for a little bit. Also, when I am on the highway, I notice that when I slowly ease up to higher boost, the A/F ratio is like 13, but starts to taper down as I get faster (and below 4,000 RPM before open loop). I think the faster air is cooling the air charge, and lowering my A/F ratio as I get faster. If this is true, this would support Nick's theory and the moving of my K&N to the wheel well where the IAT sensor is to get cooler air. As I have heard, none of us had leaning problems until it started getting hot outside. 505zoom, how is your intake setup? Do you have a K&N located under the hood? If so, you may want to try some type of heat shield/duct setup that pulls cooler air from the wheel well.

 

[LinuxRacr]

My IAT is just chilling under the hood. I see 175* or so if I sit for awhile, but usually around 100*F if I'm driving on a hot day.

The highest temperature I saw while sitting for a while was like 145 F.

 

[MPNick]

Well, this morning on the way home, my IAT sensor read 89 F. It was 88 F outside!!! I think I may be doing something along the lines of a CAI setup that pulls air from the same place my IAT sensor is at now (just like when I had the MHP CAI). I think that the hot air from the radiator fans may be screwing with my tuning a little, because when I am up at speed, I can hit the gas, and go rich, but if I am sitting for a a minute or 2, I am a litte leaner out of a stoplight, but it recovers when I start moving for a little bit. Also, when I am on the highway, I notice that when I slowly ease up to higher boost, the A/F ratio is like 13, but starts to taper down as I get faster (and below 4,000 RPM before open loop). I think the faster air is cooling the air charge, and lowering my A/F ratio as I get faster. If this is true, this would support Nick's theory and the moving of my K&N to the wheel well where the IAT sensor is to get cooler air. As I have heard, none of us had leaning problems until it started getting hot outside. 505zoom, how is your intake setup? Do you have a K&N located under the hood? If so, you may want to try some type of heat shield/duct setup that pulls cooler air from the wheel well.

Sounds like you are on the right track. BTW we had to stop installing the K-N cone filters on MAF cars. The oil from the filter would works its way into the MAF hot wire and screw things up. This you can clean with a Q-tip swab and a little rubbing alcohol. Just thinking of any and all things that might be causing problems other then bad drivers.


Thanks again


Later...........Nick

 

[LinuxRacr]

Well, while I was in the garage trying to change out my injectors, I discovered 2 things:

1. My injectors look cleaner than the ones I WAS going to replace them with!

2. One of my gromet/insulators (for cylinder 2) that seat the injector into the intake manifold is missing!

I should have a new one this afternoon, but I wonder if that could affect something if it had been missing all this time? I wonder if the heat got to that one injector since it was right against the intake manifold (metal to metal contact!). (eek2)