Fuel system SOLUTIONS...

LinuxRacr said:
This setup is working pretty damn well. I drove to work again tonight, and did some tuning on the timing map. I had to add some retard on the real on the midrange area. Tim, I think you would be interested in my new map, so I will post an attachment. Even with the new retard values, I still have some work to do up top, but everything is looking up!
Already did!(thumb) I checked it out on your other data log. Seems a bit much, but if that's what the J&S said. I put mine in between yours and Beavis'. The difference between yours and his are that you have forged pistons and the sensor on the front of the block, he has stock pistons and the sensor on the back of the block. I guess since your pistons are a little louder, that's why you have more retard. Maybe you don't need that much, but maybe you do. That's why I put mine in between both of yours, until my unit gets here.:D
 
LinuxRacr said:
Keep in mind most of the romping is done in 5th gear on the highway.
How's the A/F ratio in the area of the map where the 2's stop and it progresses up? When you are in that area, you are not using the full value, you are using .80 to .85 of it. Also, have you changed the sensor calibration for your setup? It may be different than mine, I have the 3.88v when I hit about 2psi or so. You may hit it before or after.

Glad it's still working, have you compared the differences in the settings yet? Have you tried the module O2 clamp with out the FM one. Can you do that to see if it will still work? I'd like to know if the clamp in there works right. The way Nick says to do it seems to be working for me. Maybe with the different settings, it may work for you also.
 
I accually haven't changed anything except the switch point, and the ignition map. Switch point is now at .85. About the module, I've tried it for a month at least before putting the FM clamp back in, so I've tried a lot of stuff. I haven't had to change much at all since the FM clamp went in. I'm gonna lower my fuel pressure to a lower setting. I think I will probably have to put slightly higher values then.
 
You tried it for a month on a bad map. I'm saying that now that you have a working map give it a shot. You know the way you have it now works, so if you change it and it quits working the correct way, then you know it's the clamp.
 
I don't think it was really the map. I had a similar map to yours before, and I had to constantly keep adding fuel.
 
Ok, So I'm driving around yesterday afternoon, testing some stuff out, and I notice that my A/F ratio is a little higher (easily going into the 13's). If I eased into boost, I could still hit 12.0, but around 6 PSI, I would hit high 12's/low 13's. It's about 20 degrees warmer outside than it has been for the last few days, and I think my exhaust leak has returned. The warmer temps definitely mean that the ECU will pull some fuel. Also the exahust leak will throw things off. I need to fix that fast. I am also tossing around the idea of lowering the fuel pressure down, or taking out the BEGI RRFPR, and reseting the ECU.
 
Well, I was wanting to get rid of the RRFPR to stop the fluctuations, and get my fuel pressure more precise.
 
LinuxRacr said:
Ok, So I'm driving around yesterday afternoon, testing some stuff out, and I notice that my A/F ratio is a little higher (easily going into the 13's). If I eased into boost, I could still hit 12.0, but around 6 PSI, I would hit high 12's/low 13's. It's about 20 degrees warmer outside than it has been for the last few days, and I think my exhaust leak has returned. The warmer temps definitely mean that the ECU will pull some fuel. Also the exahust leak will throw things off. I need to fix that fast. I am also tossing around the idea of lowering the fuel pressure down, or taking out the BEGI RRFPR, and reseting the ECU.
Just out of curiosity, why do you need the BEGI RRFPR if you have the MPI tunner? Is it becuase the stock fuel pressure won't allow you to go higher than say 7-8 psi?
 
No, I just never took it out! I was curious to see what I could do with it. Now I want to take it out. I want more consistancy with my fuel pressure.
 
LinuxRacr said:
Dude, I just got home from work, and let me tell you, the drive was FUN! I got the same results as last night on my way to work. I have a consistant 12-12.3 A/F ratio up to my full boost setting (8psi). It is in the 11's when I 1st hit the gas, but get up to speed nicely! I was surprised at how smooth it is! I looked down, and couldn't believe how fast I was going. BTW, I cut the MPI tuner voltage clamp wires out of the equation, and have the FM clamp in its place. I am using the FM clamp in conjucntion with the Turbo Module. Seems to be a winning combo so far! Now I just have to get my timing worked out! BTW, my PDA tool tells me that the o2 voltage is clamped at 355-365 millivolts. With the Turbo Module clamp, the voltage sweeps upwards of 800-900 millivolts (rich), and I thing the stock ECU is seeing this rich condition, and attempts to be a fuel nazi. The MPI software is still showing my stock o2 at no less than 13.7 a/f ratio when under boost. This is not good news for datalogging, but great for the tune for now I guess. (thumb)
If the FM O2 clamp is installed properly, shouldn't the MPI software show 14.7 AFR? Or is that only in closed loop?
 
s***, I didn't realize the RRFPR was still in there. Is it rasing fuel pressure (assuming you have it at the lowest setting)? That definitely makes it harder to tune and leaves you with the opportunity to have lean spots since the MPI is going off signals such as rpm and throttle and then that thing is off in another world working solely off boost pressure. Why make it so hard on yourself? Heck even I know better! :)
 
Kooldino said:
If the FM O2 clamp is installed properly, shouldn't the MPI software show 14.7 AFR? Or is that only in closed loop?
You know, that's a good question. The past couple of days, I've seen the A/F ratio show like 12.1 on the MPI software, and I don't think the stock ECU needs to see that. Maybe the FM clamp was failing, or is not as strong a clamp as should be?
 
Little Beavis said:
s***, I didn't realize the RRFPR was still in there. Is it rasing fuel pressure (assuming you have it at the lowest setting)? That definitely makes it harder to tune and leaves you with the opportunity to have lean spots since the MPI is going off signals such as rpm and throttle and then that thing is off in another world working solely off boost pressure. Why make it so hard on yourself? Heck even I know better! :)
I am also waiting on my extra injector setup to return from New Jersey. :)
 
Well, I just finished removing this from the ride:

BEGIRRFPR_Out_50.jpg


I must say that my off-throttle response is a little more responsive, and I was still able to hit 4 PSI of boost with the analog fuel map attached below. One thing I did notice when I 1st started it up is that my vaccum reading on my boost gauge was below 20 inch AFTER warm up. :wtf: Well, I started checking for vaccum leaks, and could find none! So I started driving around and realized something. The needle eventually settled where it was supposed to at idle right below (between 20 & 21 in vac) the 20. I guess when something that uses a vaccum signal is taken out of the system, the car has to recompensate, and adjust. I wonder if that is what that solenoid that the stock FPR goes to does? Well, later I will be adding some fuel, and relocating my Air Temp Sensor to a cooler place than where it is now. Mayby I will snap a shot later of where it is located for those who do not know!
 

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Ok, my car is officially doing the same s*** it was before. Maybe I haven't added enough fuel yet, but I'm already up to 19's!!! The clamp IS still clamping the voltage at 350-365 mv. My fuel filter stuff is here, but I have to wait till next Friday to pay for it. :( I still haven't gotten the other injectors from my friend yet, so no testing there yet either!
 
Well, after examining the playback logs from my drive home from work yesterday was that even thought the Nology PDA Dyno is telling me that the 02 sensor voltage is being clamped at 350-365 mv, the MPI software is telling me that when I'm hitting boost, my voltage is closer to 1 v. I know this because I added the AFR Input Voltage to my list of Running Conditions in the MPI software tonight. If this is happening, this is not good. That would explain why I am still leaning out, and having to raise numbers in the analog map. I find it interesting that even though my OBDII logger is telling me the voltage is clamped, the MPI is still seeing a higher voltage under boost.
(hmm)
 
LinuxRacr said:
Well, after examining the playback logs from my drive home from work yesterday was that even thought the Nology PDA Dyno is telling me that the 02 sensor voltage is being clamped at 350-365 mv, the MPI software is telling me that when I'm hitting boost, my voltage is closer to 1 v. I know this because I added the AFR Input Voltage to my list of Running Conditions in the MPI software tonight. If this is happening, this is not good. That would explain why I am still leaning out, and having to raise numbers in the analog map. I find it interesting that even though my OBDII logger is telling me the voltage is clamped, the MPI is still seeing a higher voltage under boost.
(hmm)
That's strange, have you talked to Keith about the voltage clamp? He might have some insight as to what might be happening.

I just got my scanner yesterday and drove around a little after work. My voltage says it clamps at about .375-.380 volts.

Where does the OBDII port pick up the reading from? Could it get the reading before the ECU sees it but after the clamp, in your case the OBDII port sees the voltage before the MPI Tuner and then before the ECU? Or, if the OBDII port sees what the ECU sees, maybe the MPI Tuner is not seeing things correctly for some reason...

I don't know.
 
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