First time CDFP internals

[Darth Vader]

I need a bit of help with this:

How do I get the retainer off the stock internal's shaft?

TYVM.

 

[Darth Vader]

It's allright, I figured it out. I thought it must be like a valve lock, in that a tap on a socket the size of the retainer would release the lock and, I was correct.

 

[Darth Vader]

Need one more Q answered...How do I get the little button (stock-style retainer) back ON the retainer? And it's bevel side OUT, right?

 

[Darth Vader]

Here's my answer I figured out after some head-scratching: I pushed the shaft up as high as it would go, slid a 14mm box wrench under the retainer, laid it between my slightly open vise jaws, with the wrench overhanging the gap, then putting the button on and smacking it with a deadblow hammer. Went on right away, doing that.

This is hilarious, I'm a one-man thread, here, lol

 

[bykeryder4life]

nice little bit of info. I never had to use the stock retainers as the KMD kit came with it all, just used the stock spring. good s*** to know though

 

[Darth Vader]

I like the stock retainer, light, pretty much indestructible and the pressure against it can only make it tighter over time, rather than loosening it.

Lots of conflicting/absent data out there, I must admit. Is it 40 lb/ft for the cap, or 60, or 78....is it fuel to lube or oil, which way is up on the stock retainer button, blah blah, blah.

I used 50 lbs because it's obvious from the fine threads on the cap, 78 is WAY too much, 40 is what AWE recommended but, that's a VW pump. 50 passed the TLAR test.

I lubed everything well with 10W30 synthetic motor oil, figuring that first start up might just be the deal-breaker. Those tolerances are pretty tight and something more shear-resistant and "lubricious" than gasoline should be in there right off. Gasoline should dissolve the motor oil pretty quickly and not cause too much grief downstream, imho, of course.