Like i said, follow the manufacturers recommendations and you are golden. Lets not over-examine the oil issue.
Gas is a whole different story.
First Oil change
- Thread starter astraelraen
- Start date
Like i said, follow the manufacturers recommendations and you are golden. Lets not over-examine the oil issue.
Gas is a whole different story.
I hear you Rick and meant no disrespect. I said Dino and did not realize the 5w20 was a blend. I don't know what % of the MC 5w20 is a synthetic but, most blends are ~ 20% syn and 80% Dino, which in of itself is not bad. I will heed your suggestion to cut back on the first UOA from a 6,000 mile to a 5,000 mile UOA. My UOA will be done on Pennzoil Platium 5w30 with a Mazda OEM oil filter. The oil will be run from 6,000 to 11,000 miles. I expect or at least hope that the engine will be fully broken in by 10K miles so the UOA will be more meaningful. Cheers and good driving. Ed
I changed mine at 10,000 (boom06) but break in oil should be change under the 3,000 miles. and PLEASE use synthetic oil MOBIL 1 is the best. thsi is a TURBO CAR you should use only synthetic oil.
PS: My oil was BLACK but I put on the engine METAL LUBE lubricant as soon i bought it.
PS: My oil was BLACK but I put on the engine METAL LUBE lubricant as soon i bought it.
Well for the very reason pointed out in this thread (no consensus), I chose to take my 7 in for its first change at 3,000.
As far as adding to this discussion, I know when I'm outside my level of expertise!
I did ask the manager of the quick lube (Ford dealership) where I took it, however. He said "if you're leasing, do it every 5,000-7,000 as Mazda requires. If you plan to keep the vehicle, I'd do it every 3,000." Not going to pretend I know whether he's right or wrong, but he was quite unequivocal about it.
As far as adding to this discussion, I know when I'm outside my level of expertise!
I did ask the manager of the quick lube (Ford dealership) where I took it, however. He said "if you're leasing, do it every 5,000-7,000 as Mazda requires. If you plan to keep the vehicle, I'd do it every 3,000." Not going to pretend I know whether he's right or wrong, but he was quite unequivocal about it.in olden days it was always 7500 miles and people didn't change there oil filter but every 2 or 3 oil changes, then jiffy lube said " people are idiots let say you need to chenge your oil every 3000 miles everyone will go along and well all get rich!!! that said it is more important to change your oil more often with a turbo
Rick's CX-7
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda6
Guys,
For those of you wanting to go 5k and 7.5k miles between changes, I salute and encourage you to do so. I do it myself.....not on this car though! These vehicles (MS3, MS6 and CX-7) suffer from heavy fuel dilution. That means, fuel makes it past the rings and right into the oil. Be very careful running long intervals with these engines. Any other vehicle and I wouldn't freak about it. I took my LS1 Z28 to over 9k miles with no problems; but these MZRs are very tough on oil. Maybe the fuel problem subsides with engine miles, but there just isn't enough info on these things yet. It does seem to be a problem with Direct Injection as seen on some Audi and VW as well.
All I'm saying is: If you plan on keeping the car for a while, "I" strongly suggest not to over extend the oil. I would change oil AND filter at no more than 5k miles. Remember this is also a turbo engine, which just by itself, beats the oil to death. Oil isn't that expensive anyway.
btw; Mobil 1 used to be a very good oil, when it was SL. The new SM oil seems to produce a lot of iron wear (cylinders) and the price has actually increased. A very respected trybologist recommends Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State Synthetic (same company) for over the counter oils.
Have a nice day!
Rick
For those of you wanting to go 5k and 7.5k miles between changes, I salute and encourage you to do so. I do it myself.....not on this car though! These vehicles (MS3, MS6 and CX-7) suffer from heavy fuel dilution. That means, fuel makes it past the rings and right into the oil. Be very careful running long intervals with these engines. Any other vehicle and I wouldn't freak about it. I took my LS1 Z28 to over 9k miles with no problems; but these MZRs are very tough on oil. Maybe the fuel problem subsides with engine miles, but there just isn't enough info on these things yet. It does seem to be a problem with Direct Injection as seen on some Audi and VW as well.
All I'm saying is: If you plan on keeping the car for a while, "I" strongly suggest not to over extend the oil. I would change oil AND filter at no more than 5k miles. Remember this is also a turbo engine, which just by itself, beats the oil to death. Oil isn't that expensive anyway.
btw; Mobil 1 used to be a very good oil, when it was SL. The new SM oil seems to produce a lot of iron wear (cylinders) and the price has actually increased. A very respected trybologist recommends Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State Synthetic (same company) for over the counter oils.
Have a nice day!
Rick
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Rick's CX-7
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda6
Shaz,
Forget about time in service.....go by the miles. I have deployed for over 8 months at a time, which would make my intervals about a year; and the oil has never been affected one bit. I have confirmed this through oil analysis.
Unless something specifically contaminates the oil (water, fuel, antifreeze) you will be just fine.
Forget about time in service.....go by the miles. I have deployed for over 8 months at a time, which would make my intervals about a year; and the oil has never been affected one bit. I have confirmed this through oil analysis.
Unless something specifically contaminates the oil (water, fuel, antifreeze) you will be just fine.
Wuz Ranger
Member
- :
- 2008 Mazda 3 Hatch, Manual,
I contacted our local dealer. They state that 5000mi is when you want to perform the first oil change. To each there own though...right!
So we have opinions that the first oil change falls between 500 and 7,500 miles. In addition we have the owners manual with has a 5,000 or 7,500 mile OC listed depending on driving conditions. How about this idea:7,500-500/2=3,500/2= 1,750 +500=2,250miles and 7,500 -5,000=2500/2=1250+5000=6,250 OCI. If we average the result of opinion & the mauual we get 6,250+2,250/2=4,250 miles. I think I'll stick with my 2500 mile first OCI but, to each his own. I quit this thread now but, the exercise and dialog was great for awhile.. Ed
I changed mine at 4100, because at 3500 I was busy. I am an addict to oil change, specially the first 3500. I just want all the 'bad' stuff out by 3500. I as soon as I git the 7000 mark I will be going over to the synthetic.
Because I am going to add a lot of HP in to this motor, I am going to stick with my 3500. But dealer recommended oil change will be fine for those that are not looking to fix up the car.
Because I am going to add a lot of HP in to this motor, I am going to stick with my 3500. But dealer recommended oil change will be fine for those that are not looking to fix up the car.
06Si to CX-7
Member
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- 2007 Mazda CX-7
Why in the hell was your oil change $99??? It runs around $30 here at a Mazda or Ford dealership!!!
06Si to CX-7
Member
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- 2007 Mazda CX-7
The way you wrote it made it sound like just an oil change...although I could have missed something. What all did you have done for $99? There can't be much to do at 7.5K other than oil change and maybe tire rotation.
I just found this forum a few minutes ago while sitting here in hotel room while on a road trip with our new '7' that we purchased about three weeks ago. Before we left for CO from San Antonio I had dealer change oil and car had about 600 miles on it. I also believe in changing oil early in a new engine. Anyway, dealer hesitated then agreed to do it and honor the first year free oil change deal that came with the car. I even offered to pay for the change myself since it wasn't being done at the 5000 mi interval suggested by mfr.
I checked oil level during the trip up here and found that it was almost a quart low. I pulled out the invoice for the oil change and dealer has our '7' identified as a V6 under the model description! And, the oil change shows that they used 4 qts of 5w-20 'all climate' oil. 'All climate' is a Valvoline product if I am not mistaken. And its not a syn blend. Now I am wondering if they used the correct quantity and type of oil recommended by mfr. The owners handbook recommends using 5w-30 not 5-20, and six quarts.
I have called my service manager twice and left messages in regard to this oil change but they haven't returned my calls. I am tempted to write mfr or find regional service rep and ask him.
I have also noticed the heavy amount of black soot in exhaust tailpipes so it looks like engine is definitely running on the rich side which suprises me since mfrs have the ability to tune computer engine programs for the best mileage possible.
On another note, we noticed a shimmy in steering wheel when braking. I cannot imagine that rotors could be warped on such a new car but its definitely noticable and there isn't any pulsating in brake pedal.
I checked oil level during the trip up here and found that it was almost a quart low. I pulled out the invoice for the oil change and dealer has our '7' identified as a V6 under the model description! And, the oil change shows that they used 4 qts of 5w-20 'all climate' oil. 'All climate' is a Valvoline product if I am not mistaken. And its not a syn blend. Now I am wondering if they used the correct quantity and type of oil recommended by mfr. The owners handbook recommends using 5w-30 not 5-20, and six quarts.
I have called my service manager twice and left messages in regard to this oil change but they haven't returned my calls. I am tempted to write mfr or find regional service rep and ask him.
I have also noticed the heavy amount of black soot in exhaust tailpipes so it looks like engine is definitely running on the rich side which suprises me since mfrs have the ability to tune computer engine programs for the best mileage possible.
On another note, we noticed a shimmy in steering wheel when braking. I cannot imagine that rotors could be warped on such a new car but its definitely noticable and there isn't any pulsating in brake pedal.
BlackCherry06
Member
- :
- '17 CX-3 GT
"I pulled out the invoice for the oil change and dealer has our '7' identified as a V6 under the model description! And, the oil change shows that they used 4qts of 5w-20 'all climate' oil."
If a service department doesn't even know which engine you have, they don't deserve your business. If your owner's manual states "5W-30 Only" like mine does, or if 5W-20 isn't listed as an option on the temperature scale, get it out of the engine as soon as you can and don't take it back to that dealer for service. Next thing they'll do is put gear oil in your automatic transmission. Can you tell I hate incompetence?
If a service department doesn't even know which engine you have, they don't deserve your business. If your owner's manual states "5W-30 Only" like mine does, or if 5W-20 isn't listed as an option on the temperature scale, get it out of the engine as soon as you can and don't take it back to that dealer for service. Next thing they'll do is put gear oil in your automatic transmission. Can you tell I hate incompetence?
