First oil change question

Yup, the new GF6/SP standard that went into effect a few months ago is supposed to be a huge improvement with GDI carbon and timing chain issues. All manufacturers should have switched over by now

I've been looking into this, and see nothing about "GDI carbon" impacts. The only thing I see vaguely related is LSPI (low-speed pre-ignition) for turbo-GDI engines. Do you have more info?

This was a more expansive post than most on the efficacies of the new standards: https://kendallmotoroil.com/news/ev...ow-about-gf-6-and-api-sp-motor-oil-standards/
 
Changed the oil in our new GTR last weekend at 1,600 miles. In my 45 years of changing oil, it was the darkest, blackest 1,600 mile oil I had have seen. Was planning on 5,000 mile intervals, but after seeing the condition of the oil at 1,600 miles, I'm going with 3,000 instead. Using factory filter and Mobile 1 5-30. Anyone here heard of the new oil formulation ILSAC GF6/API SP? Formulated for the GDI engines carbon problems.
Yea the oil ends up looking very black in the collection bucket. The 0W-20 oil we use already exceeds that standard. They sure make the oil manufacturers change their labels often.
 
I've been looking into this, and see nothing about "GDI carbon" impacts. The only thing I see vaguely related is LSPI (low-speed pre-ignition) for turbo-GDI engines. Do you have more info?

This was a more expansive post than most on the efficacies of the new standards: https://kendallmotoroil.com/news/ev...ow-about-gf-6-and-api-sp-motor-oil-standards/

Ahh, found another article at Rock Auto that explains the "GDI Carbon" issue better. I was assuming it was related to carbon build-up on the valves, but no. It's carbon in the oil itself:

This year brought us a new specification for motor oil; ILSAC GF-6 / API SP. One of the primary goals of the new oil spec is to reduce incidence of two problems gasoline direct injection (GDI) engines have been experiencing.

GDI blasts the fuel directly into the combustion chamber at high pressure. This leaves less time for the air and fuel to mix together. The resulting air/fuel mixture may burn unevenly which may generate a lot of soot. As the pistons move up and down, the soot gets mixed into the motor oil. The soot travels with the motor oil through the engine and causes wear.

The most noticeable wear often occurs between the pins and bushings that hold timing chains together. As the bushing holes wear and enlarge, the timing chains stretch. Eventually the timing chains may stretch to the point that they slip across gear teeth or otherwise are unable to correctly connect the crankshaft to the camshafts. The computer generates a trouble code, the engine goes into limp-in mode and/or the engine stops running. GF-6 / SP oil resists collecting and circulating the harmful soot.
GF-6, API SP and API SN PLUS on label
GF-6, API SP and API SN PLUS on label

The second problem, low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), is also related to the uneven burning of air/fuel in GDI engines; specifically, turbocharged GDI engines. When running at relatively low RPM and under heavy load, like when moving away from a dead stop, severe knocking may occur inside the cylinders. Scientists figured out that traces of engine oil mixing and burning with the air/fuel mixture contributes to the damaging engine knock. GF-5 / SN-Plus spec oil was released a couple of years ago to combat this problem (watch for the “Plus” after SN). The new GF-6 / SP oil helps with both the soot and knock problems.

Ford has produced the most turbocharged GDI engines. Small 1L, three-cylinder Ford EcoBoost engines power Ford Fiestas, and big 3.5L, six-cylinder EcoBoost motors are in work trucks that rack up a lot of severe-duty (towing, dust, etc.) miles. The soot and knock problems have been studied most thoroughly on EcoBoost engines. The new specification actually requires that new GF-6 / SP oils pass tests running in Ford EcoBoost motors!
GDI shown in description and Info page
GDI / Direct Injection in part descriptions and Info page

These new oils, higher fuel injection pressures, intake manifold port injection coupled with GDI, etc. help solve these problems on older engines and prevent them on newer engines. GDI engine owners may be able to help the most by simply changing their vehicles' motor oil frequently and always using the correct oil. Instead of waiting for the longest, light-duty, oil change interval (often 7,000+ miles/11,000+ km), change the oil closer to the severe-duty interval (often 3,000 miles/5,000 km).

You can check to see if your specific vehicle's engine uses GDI by looking at the “Info” pages and part descriptions for the engine's Fuel Injectors found under “Fuel & Air” in the RockAuto.com catalog. Find the correct engine Oil for your vehicle under “Engine.” Oil is also listed by viscosity/weight under the “Tools & Universal Parts” tab.

Note: The “A” in GF-6A means the oil is a viscosity/weight compatible with existing engines. The “B” in GF-B means the oil is only to be used in recent engine designs that require completely new viscosity/weight oils such as 0W-16.

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com
 
Changed the oil in our new GTR last weekend at 1,600 miles. In my 45 years of changing oil, it was the darkest, blackest 1,600 mile oil I had have seen. Was planning on 5,000 mile intervals, but after seeing the condition of the oil at 1,600 miles, I'm going with 3,000 instead. Using factory filter and Mobile 1 5-30. Anyone here heard of the new oil formulation ILSAC GF6/API SP? Formulated for the GDI engines carbon problems.
Modern engine oil will become dark very soon during the service since it has too much detergent. Hence dark color doesn’t mean the oil has lost its effectiveness. Only the UOA can tell the true story. May be the high moly content in factory oil makes the oil looking darker too after 1,600 miles of service life. Some here is going to try 10K ~ 12K-mile OCI based on UOA result and lab’s suggestion. And If you’re worried about the oil in 1,600 miles of service, what those Euros should do with 12K ~ 17,5K-mile recommended flexible OCI based on the calculation by the oil life monitor?
 
Just want to say that Toyota offers 2-year free maintenance for every new vehicle sold in the US. The OCI is 10,000 miles or 12 months including widely used 203 hp Dynamic Force 2.5L which uses watery 0W-16 oil. So Toyota which is known for excellent long-term reliability recommends doing the factory oil change at 10,000 miles, and they’re not afraid of engine problems by such OCI which would ruin their reputation.
 
Modern engine oil will become dark very soon during the service since it has too much detergent. Hence dark color doesn’t mean the oil has lost its effectiveness. Only the UOA can tell the true story. May be the high moly content in factory oil makes the oil looking darker too after 1,600 miles of service life. Some here is going to try 10K ~ 12K-mile OCI based on UOA result and lab’s suggestion. And If you’re worried about the oil in 1,600 miles of service, what those Euros should do with 12K ~ 17,5K-mile recommended flexible OCI based on the calculation by the oil life monitor?
Thank you for the detergent and moly explanation.
 
Just want to say that Toyota offers 2-year free maintenance for every new vehicle sold in the US. The OCI is 10,000 miles or 12 months including widely used 203 hp Dynamic Force 2.5L which uses watery 0W-16 oil. So Toyota which is known for excellent long-term reliability recommends doing the factory oil change at 10,000 miles, and they’re not afraid of engine problems by such OCI which would ruin their reputation.

#Preach

Im trying to fight that good fight over at Rav4World. “I live in Florida, what oil should I use?” What’s printed right on the cap LOL. Folks don’t want to hear it. I even found the research conducted by Nissan when 0W-16 was created and tested. It has lower viscosity, but did you know it’s the same film thickness as 0W-20 and they used moly to prevent it from shearing at operational temps? It was cool stuff.

Mike, no need to do 3k OCIs. Follow the manual or maintenance minder. Color isn’t an indicator of oil health. Check the used oil analysis posts here or conduct your own for piece of mind :D
 
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I change the oil in all of my new cars at 1k miles, first time.
Same here....I want all the shavings from assembly OUT OF THE OIL/ENGINE ! Have done that for years and have run Synthetic Oil for MANY years in my Drag Cars and Drag Bikes..Well worth the extra cost.
 
I changed the oil & filter on my 2019 CX 5 Turbo at 1200 miles to Castrol Edge 5W-30 and changed it again at 5,000 miles. My car now has 8000 miles on it and the oil is still a nice amber color so no darkening of the oil has occurred in 3000 miles.

No way would I only go 3000 miles between changes and conversely, no way would I extend the OCI's to 7500 miles or 10,000 miles. I think 5000 miles will be the sweet spot for the 2.5L Turbo Skyactiv engine unless all of your mileage is freeway driving. Then 7500 would be OK.

My plan is to switch to the relabeled Mobil 1 5W-30 EP Formulation which is supposed to be the same as the old AP / Annual Protection formula at the next oil change. That should provide goo d performance and low carbon buildup. It will meet all of the new GF6 standards and hopefully be available at sale prices on a regular basis.
 
I have a 2020 CX-5 and performed the first oil change on it about a week ago. I'm no novice when it comes to changing my own oil. However, I have never run into this issue. I used Mobil 1 0-20 full synthetic and used a Mobil 1 oil filter. I did the cross reference on the oem filter to make sure it was the correct one. About a day later, my low oil pressure light came on. I checked the dipstick and the engine is not low at all. I also pulled the access cover off and looked around to make sure it wasn't leaking at the plug or the filter and everything is dry. Any thoughts on what the issue might be?
 
.. Any thoughts on what the issue might be?

Is your 2020 CX-5 turbo or no?

IF Turbo - Mobile 1 oil filter lied to you it is not the same spec as OEM.
For the turbo you need one of the following:

PY8W-14-302 (Japan made most likely you wont find this one)
1WPY-14-302 ( Thai made Denso )
 
I have a 2020 CX-5 and performed the first oil change on it about a week ago. I'm no novice when it comes to changing my own oil. However, I have never run into this issue. I used Mobil 1 0-20 full synthetic and used a Mobil 1 oil filter. I did the cross reference on the oem filter to make sure it was the correct one. About a day later, my low oil pressure light came on. I checked the dipstick and the engine is not low at all. I also pulled the access cover off and looked around to make sure it wasn't leaking at the plug or the filter and everything is dry. Any thoughts on what the issue might be?
Mobil 1 oil filer (or many other after-market oil filters) is “one-size-fit-all“, and listed to be used on SkyActiv-G 2.0L / 2.5L、2.5T、and older 1.5L used in Mazda2, whereas Mazda has 3 different OEM oil filters with different specs for these engines.

I assume you have a 2.5L non-turbo in your 2020 CX-5. If you check the Mobil 1 website, it says to use Mobil 1™ Extended Performance Oil Filter M1-108A for CX-5 2.5L, but nothing available for CX-5 2.5T. But strangely lt says to use the same M1-108A for CX-9 which has the same 2.5T! M1-108A is said to fit many other different vehicles too. I wouldn’t use those “one-size-fit-all” after-market oil filters just to save a couple of bucks.

There’re some reports here that they have had DTC’s because they used aftermarket oil filter, and swore they would use OEM filter exclusively on their CX-5. Your problem could be related to something else. If you have 2.5T you‘ve used wrong viscosity (should be 5W-30). You can take a picture of the warning message and take your CX-5 to your Mazda dealer for warranty service.

Skyactiv Oil Filters

Here is one MNAO PDF to their US Mazda Dealers concerning genuine Oil Filter(s) installation and use for ALL SA Engines..
Mazda Dealers (in USA particularly) are also seeing stored DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes in PCM) when they use even 'other' genuine Mazda oil filters in Skyactiv engines, see pic, they look identical, but it is what is inside.
7798EA43-3239-4CC5-9AC9-32199F4639CF.jpeg
 
I have a 2020 CX-5 and performed the first oil change on it about a week ago. I'm no novice when it comes to changing my own oil. However, I have never run into this issue. I used Mobil 1 0-20 full synthetic and used a Mobil 1 oil filter. I did the cross reference on the oem filter to make sure it was the correct one. About a day later, my low oil pressure light came on. I checked the dipstick and the engine is not low at all. I also pulled the access cover off and looked around to make sure it wasn't leaking at the plug or the filter and everything is dry. Any thoughts on what the issue might be?
You used the wrong oil filter. It may have collapsed internally and restricts the oil flow.
 
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