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- MazdaSpeed 6
heres a silly question that u shouldve also bought before putting in the FMIC..do you have the hpf pump? that can handle the amount of fuel that the 3076r needs to run efficently
F*** the GT3076R
- Thread starter LV Tunerz
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motocrosser614
Member
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- 2008 Mazdaspeed 3
i still have seen no tuning solution? Did you think all your different brand parts would work together perfect to make the fastest LV_TUNRZ MS3 FTW!!!!!
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- MazdaSpeed 6
i believe he did.this is him now(bang)
i think you need to go to the "OTHER" forums and read up. this forum doesn't get a lot of traffic in this section so you aren't goign to have all the hard facts you will on the other forums. you aren't the first person to have this turbo so i would follow in others footsteps.
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- MazdaSpeed 6
(iagree) and then once u get it all working and figured out we can all have some (drinks)
1. don't listen to MS6mike. He blew his motor, blames it on the car, and he gave up on it.
2. don't listen to BoostedSpd6. he doesn't know anything. long story short - he said he did a modification that was straightforward and ended up costing a few guys a considerable amount of money to correct it. it only worked for one guy in the end. as of now, we are still waiting on his write-up of the mod.... lol
3. listen to bova80. go to other forums and sign up
4. read all you can on those forums without posting stupid comments like "how do i swap turbos?" absorb the information. if you can't put it together, you shouldn't be modding.
2. don't listen to BoostedSpd6. he doesn't know anything. long story short - he said he did a modification that was straightforward and ended up costing a few guys a considerable amount of money to correct it. it only worked for one guy in the end. as of now, we are still waiting on his write-up of the mod.... lol
3. listen to bova80. go to other forums and sign up
4. read all you can on those forums without posting stupid comments like "how do i swap turbos?" absorb the information. if you can't put it together, you shouldn't be modding.
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Let's remember too guys that the boost creep issues with the ATP turbos happen only when the throttle is allowed to be opened fully by a programming change to his ecu. If he didn't get his ecu flashed by CP-E, Cobb, or Piasini he shouldn't have that issue.
Mind you, he's not even close to worrying about that issue in particular as it sounds like he can't even get the car running properly.
Mind you, he's not even close to worrying about that issue in particular as it sounds like he can't even get the car running properly.
skylinemonster
Member
- :
- 2006 Mazdaspeed 6
LV, Listen up sir. Your head is in the right place. You want power. It's an addiction for most of us males. You have the hardware for it so far. Let me tell you. I have a gt3071r with forged pistons and rods and alot of supporting modifications, time and money. Let me give you the facts.
1. The atp turbo kit is not worth the money they sell it for because of the internal gate issue. In my opinion ATP is a chop shop that makes frankenstein parts and pushes them out the door and doesn't stand behind them. You will not get anywhere talking to them. But they are all we have for bigger turbo upgrades at this point so you have to put in some more time and money to make it work as I did.
2. Don't listen to people on these forums unless they have hard evidence to back up their claims. Yes the rods in these engines are thin, but so are many other rods in different engines and I have seen stock blocks put down serious hp, over 350 wheel. Your engine detonating all boils down to proper tuning and engine care. The nice thing about direct injection is that engine knock is minimul if at all non-existant on 93 octane and a boost range of 23-26 psi, AS LONG AS IT IS TUNED PROPERLY. Most cars with standard fuel injection have to run higher octane, e85, etc in order to accomplish this feat. This is the beauty of direct injection and the atomization of fuel. I BLEW MY ORIGINAL BLOCK BECAUSE OF IMPROPER TUNING. I TRIED TO SHORT CUT AND SAVE MONEY BY USING OTHER PEOPLES TUNES, WELL YOU KNOW THE STORY. ANYHOW HAVE A PROFESSIONAL TUNE IT.
3. You need to clarify/elaborate on why your car was working at one point and then stopped building boost. Also, it's very important you don't rev past 4000 rpm until you get the piggy back tuned.
4. Get an external wastegate. Unfortunately its not a simple and cost effective task. You need to replace your turbo manifold if it is stock or buy an after market one and modify it, or just buy something like this straight up : http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4211979&posted=1#post4211979. It is already setup for a 44mm v-band gate, in which you will need to buy as well. This will set you back around 1200 dollars total to go this route but in my opinion it is well worth it. I experienced so many minor exhaust leaks from the 38mm flanges that I just upgraded to the 44mm v-band and all is perfect. V-band is the greatest invention since zip-ties. Anyhow, a big turbo car will not have perfect engine response if there is the smallest exhaust leak.
5. Finally, you will run into another road block when this is all said and done. You will not be able to rev the engine out without hitting a nasty MAF RELATED fuel cut around 5500rpm. Now his is caused mainly by the diamater of the maf housing. Current CP-E is working on a 3.5 inch maf housing which is almost 1 inch larger over stock and this will alow for up to 700hp before it reads max voltage near the 4.8v range. You will need to send in your factory ecu for cp-e to flash in order to rescale the maf tables.
6. Oh and I almost forgot, you will consume alot of oil in the engine especially under hard acceleration. The factory crankcase vent plumbs right into your turbo inlet and all the oil vapor is recycled back into your motor. try looking into a catch can or even better an air oil separator which is what I bought from www.ixizconcept.com. It is one of the most useful devices I have purschased for this car next to the dashhawk. It will separate all of your blow-by/pressurized oil and recycle the oil back in your engine and vent clean air into your turbo inlet. It actually works. I did many hard pulls and my oil level never drops.
If you have any questions, email me at japanesemonster@gmail.com. Good day.
1. The atp turbo kit is not worth the money they sell it for because of the internal gate issue. In my opinion ATP is a chop shop that makes frankenstein parts and pushes them out the door and doesn't stand behind them. You will not get anywhere talking to them. But they are all we have for bigger turbo upgrades at this point so you have to put in some more time and money to make it work as I did.
2. Don't listen to people on these forums unless they have hard evidence to back up their claims. Yes the rods in these engines are thin, but so are many other rods in different engines and I have seen stock blocks put down serious hp, over 350 wheel. Your engine detonating all boils down to proper tuning and engine care. The nice thing about direct injection is that engine knock is minimul if at all non-existant on 93 octane and a boost range of 23-26 psi, AS LONG AS IT IS TUNED PROPERLY. Most cars with standard fuel injection have to run higher octane, e85, etc in order to accomplish this feat. This is the beauty of direct injection and the atomization of fuel. I BLEW MY ORIGINAL BLOCK BECAUSE OF IMPROPER TUNING. I TRIED TO SHORT CUT AND SAVE MONEY BY USING OTHER PEOPLES TUNES, WELL YOU KNOW THE STORY. ANYHOW HAVE A PROFESSIONAL TUNE IT.
3. You need to clarify/elaborate on why your car was working at one point and then stopped building boost. Also, it's very important you don't rev past 4000 rpm until you get the piggy back tuned.
4. Get an external wastegate. Unfortunately its not a simple and cost effective task. You need to replace your turbo manifold if it is stock or buy an after market one and modify it, or just buy something like this straight up : http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4211979&posted=1#post4211979. It is already setup for a 44mm v-band gate, in which you will need to buy as well. This will set you back around 1200 dollars total to go this route but in my opinion it is well worth it. I experienced so many minor exhaust leaks from the 38mm flanges that I just upgraded to the 44mm v-band and all is perfect. V-band is the greatest invention since zip-ties. Anyhow, a big turbo car will not have perfect engine response if there is the smallest exhaust leak.
5. Finally, you will run into another road block when this is all said and done. You will not be able to rev the engine out without hitting a nasty MAF RELATED fuel cut around 5500rpm. Now his is caused mainly by the diamater of the maf housing. Current CP-E is working on a 3.5 inch maf housing which is almost 1 inch larger over stock and this will alow for up to 700hp before it reads max voltage near the 4.8v range. You will need to send in your factory ecu for cp-e to flash in order to rescale the maf tables.
6. Oh and I almost forgot, you will consume alot of oil in the engine especially under hard acceleration. The factory crankcase vent plumbs right into your turbo inlet and all the oil vapor is recycled back into your motor. try looking into a catch can or even better an air oil separator which is what I bought from www.ixizconcept.com. It is one of the most useful devices I have purschased for this car next to the dashhawk. It will separate all of your blow-by/pressurized oil and recycle the oil back in your engine and vent clean air into your turbo inlet. It actually works. I did many hard pulls and my oil level never drops.
If you have any questions, email me at japanesemonster@gmail.com. Good day.
i am taking it to a shop this up coming friday here in denver CO and im going to see what they can do for me , my grandmother is will to pay whatever for it to get back up and running so yeah but skylinemonster i will be looking into everything that you said for sure !
Kind off hard to keep trying after i fixed the engine that i blew The car got totaled! some guy t boned me like 2 weeks after i got my new engine! get the fact straight piece of s***!
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- MazdaSpeed 6
ur garabge my car still runs with the modified in tank pump..like mike said get ur facts straight kid. there will never ever be a write up about it because u guys caused so much drama and chewed me out just cuz it didnt work for u. noob
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- MazdaSpeed 6
yeah mdogg(piss)
your post reminds me of something..... oh yeah....
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