EGR Help Please

[gone_fishin]

So I got everything finished the other day, and I went to go crank it and it started fine but kept idling high and then stalling. It would kick up the RPMS right before dying out and I just couldn't keep it lit even feathering the throttle. I finally remembered why. I forgot to seal up the giant freaking whole that the VICS butterfly rod went through. (bang)

No wonder...there was a vacuum leak the size of the state of texas on the lower plenum, and the head was literally gasping for air. So, I've been back to it, removing the runner half and am going to thread a bolt in there with JB weld. Hopefully that will fix the problem.

At least it sounded mean as hell when I was throttling trying to keep the engine going.

 

[Kansei]

I only used the jb weld when I did it, no bolt. I should probably take the IM back off and do it the right way, huh.. dunno if the jb alone will hold up to teh boOst

 

[terbow]

id never trust jb weld alone. mines being threaded witha bolt as well

 

[Kansei]

I just forget what size bolt.. one of my roommates it taking me to home depot to get a garage heater and some other things today... might as well pick it up.

 

[iracemine]

i used JB weld alone to plug the hole. i just made it a mushroom shape. oh and i used a crows foot to put on the EGR pipe on the intake side with the throtal body on and it worked perfict.
as fare as high idle. mine idles high and bogs bad until it warms up (chicago gets cold) with no spikes.

 

[iracemine]

not sure about turbo though might want to use a bolt. sorry.

 

[Kansei]

yeah, I checked the vtcs removal guide and he mentioned that a 1/8npt would work well.. and I need a 1/8 NPT tap for my EGT anyway.

now if only I could figure out what size/threading the stuts from the turbo to manifold were supposed to be. this manifold I bought had a messed up thread in one hole.

 

[gone_fishin]

The inner diamter of the hole where the VICS rod goes through is exactly 8mm. I'd recommend getting a 9mm hex head bolt with a collar and threading it in there after coating it in JB weld.

 

[gone_fishin]

iracemine, I'm thinking that turbo motors might not have the bog problem pre-warm up, but I guess we'll see. I generally let thins warm up before I drive it anyway. I got into the habbit of just beating the crap out of a cold engine from driving my formerly N/A protege (still a no no, but oh well), but now that the swap is done, I've been making a big effort to allow it to warm up before even driving.

 

[gone_fishin]

It's done! After I threaded the bolt in there with JB weld to seal up the giant vacuum leak, it started up like a charm. It idles normally, no bogging. At idle, the exhaust actually burbles now-- I can't believe it. When you give it throttle just in nuetral, it sounds MEAN as hell. It sounds like a track car. Unbelievable, I can't wait to take it for a test drive. (cabpatch) I'm smiling ear to ear.

 

[Crazee D]

ya heat should work!

BLAH!

Yeah heat will work...I'll have Josh post up a pic what we used to cut off the EGR pipe