ebay header install

OK!

So finally got my parts in a couple days ago(had to wait much longer than usual because of the hurricane) and just had some free time today (and still ran out of light) to get the gasket installed on the midpipe, I didn't take pictures but it sure as heck took care of that stupid ricer noise! However, I was unable to fix the spring bolt situation... I don't have access to a large enough drill bit to drill the holes on the midpipe large enough to fit the bolt that needs to go though. BUT the gasket fit in fine and it tightened down perfectly with just the one good spring bolt and it has held up just fine since I've done that back when I started this thing.

So in essence, exhaust leak is gone!! I also did an oil change while I was under there: Castrol Syntec (fully synthetic) 5w-30, K&N oil filter. I was about to go on 6000 miles since the first oil change which was back when I got this baby, although I've had to had a bit of oil to it every once in a while but not too much, but anyway I feel better about having all new fresh oil in :)

Next big job will probably be the motor mounts... I'm getting tired of all this rattling and lurching from the engine bay when I step on it. I will start looking for mounts! I found $20 ones on Rockauto.com, are those worth getting? Should I look at a junkyard? or is OEM best bet...? (i hope not because I don't have near enough money for those....)

Thanks for everyone's input!!
 
you mean like poly-u inserts? where is a good place for that?

and do I add them to the already broken mounts?
 
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I just went thru the ordeal myself... the bolts wouldn't go thru and two hours of head scratching went by.... until I just pulled the whole exhaust forward and it lined up pretty much as perfect as an ebay header would do. Take care of the mount situation asap... I got a bad rear mount and I could sincerely swear that that header is warping towards and into my crank. As I now have a partially crushed crank corner... before it barely cleared it, but it used to. Gotta get me a better racing header because I'm spending in all the "exotic" parts and an ebay header that could give me problems does not fit the equation.

I ordered corksport mount inserts to see if they get rid of the shimming of that engine. I'l tell you if they're good.. they were like 55 bucks or so

As for exhaust note, I'm completely stock, so, I just got a bit more pick up low to mid range... I'm still dealing with that dreadfully restrictive stock cat... you can just feel the better flow just battling to go thru it. Top end improved slightly but it's easier to drive, as you can cruise really down low in rpm
 
Take some pictures of that cause I'm pretty sure the exhaust goes no where near the crank pulley
 
jolimojo said:
a couple more pics from today:

View attachment 199025

View attachment 199026
Click to expand...
Look at my pic of the angle of the OBX egr fitting on the header and the angle of the o2 sensor below it. It appears by your pics that the angles are reversed on the 2 and that is why your egr pipe will not line up. The egr fitting should come off the header parallel with the ground when the header is in place, not at any angle - straight accross even with top of motor and straight accross in line with front of motor.


new_stb.JPG
 
Heres a good question for you just in California. Because the first catalytic converter in part of the manifold on the stock car, if you put a header on it will it still pass smog? Also what do you do with both the O2 sensors? Do you just put them both back in and run it or do you have to change something in the computer to tell it the cat is there or missing?

Im wanting to put a header on but want to see if anyone has had problems with not passing smog in California.
 
sparkstyl said:
Heres a good question for you just in California. Because the first catalytic converter in part of the manifold on the stock car, if you put a header on it will it still pass smog? Also what do you do with both the O2 sensors? Do you just put them both back in and run it or do you have to change something in the computer to tell it the cat is there or missing?

Im wanting to put a header on but want to see if anyone has had problems with not passing smog in California.
Click to expand...

it wont pass the inspection or test only smog checks. you'll need to run an spark plug nonfouler attached to the first o2 sensor in order to avoid the CEL.
 
Brian_K said:
it wont pass the inspection or test only smog checks. you'll need to run an spark plug nonfouler attached to the first o2 sensor in order to avoid the CEL.
Click to expand...

On the first O2 sensor? Shouldn't it be on the 2nd sensor. But thanks for answering my question, good to hear that the one cat is sufficient to pass smog. Now I just need my engine to stop burning a quart of oil in 200 miles...
 
sparkstyl said:
On the first O2 sensor? Shouldn't it be on the 2nd sensor. But thanks for answering my question, good to hear that the one cat is sufficient to pass smog. Now I just need my engine to stop burning a quart of oil in 200 miles...
Click to expand...

whoops, my fault. Yes you're correct it should be on the second O2 sensor
 
cool, thanks for the quick reply. I found another way that is more "legit" if you want to say.

You weld a O2 sensor bung after the second cat and move the second sensor to that spot. As long as the tester for smog doesnt know that these cars came with the first cat, then its totally legal. Plus this is a small afternoon project, hell it would take longer for the car to cool down then to weld this up.
 
I have some header advice questions.

1. I see cheapo headers between $80 to $120 on eBay but the EGR bung is welded in at the wrong angle, just like in the photos in this thread. How can this be fixed or are they low quality and not worth buying?
2. I see OBX headers for $200+ on eBay with what looks like the the EGR bung welded in at the correct angle. Are these really better quality for the money?
3. Is the included header gasket different than the OEM exhaust manifold gasket? The OEM ones are three thin layers of metal.
4. So just looking at the photos of headers, the two O2 sensor bungs are in the correct location but there is no pre-cat. Does this throw errors or problems with fuel/air mix?
5. And to clarify, if you install an O2 bung after the second cat and connect the downstream O2 sensor there, would you put the upstream O2 sensor at the header collector point and block the j-pipe location bung; or would you put the upstream O2 sensor at the J-pipe location bung and block the header collector point bung??
 
rit14623 said:
I have some header advice questions.

1. I see cheapo headers between $80 to $120 on eBay but the EGR bung is welded in at the wrong angle, just like in the photos in this thread. How can this be fixed or are they low quality and not worth buying?
2. I see OBX headers for $200+ on eBay with what looks like the the EGR bung welded in at the correct angle. Are these really better quality for the money?
3. Is the included header gasket different than the OEM exhaust manifold gasket? The OEM ones are three thin layers of metal.
4. So just looking at the photos of headers, the two O2 sensor bungs are in the correct location but there is no pre-cat. Does this throw errors or problems with fuel/air mix?
5. And to clarify, if you install an O2 bung after the second cat and connect the downstream O2 sensor there, would you put the upstream O2 sensor at the header collector point and block the j-pipe location bung; or would you put the upstream O2 sensor at the J-pipe location bung and block the header collector point bung??
Click to expand...

the quality between the different 'cheap' options are all the same...the EGR location has more to do with what car its actually made for (lots of different mazda's use the same FS engine)...and not really anything to do with its quality...with high temp flexible plumbing, you can get the egr routed correctly with the first header you mentioned...but its definitely a lot easier and less of a hassle to find a header with the egr bung in the right location...

As far as the O2 sensors...there are multiple options...the primary O2 sensor ideally should be located as close to the head as possible (much like the stock location on the stock manifold), but its not really critical...that o2 sensor is used in a computer cycle known as 'closed loop', where the computer reads exhaust gas content...and makes adjustments accordingly...because this is latent processing (its fixing conditions that have already occured), its better for that o2 sensor to be very close to the head...but again, its not critical...closed loop is only used at idle and very low load engine operation...when the engine is actually being used to accelerate, or even cruise on a highway in most cases...its using open loop and the primary o2 sensor isn't doing anything...

Now, when speaking of a header with two o2 bungs...use the first location for that primary o2 sensor...the 2nd o2 sensor ONLY monitors engine warm up and catalyst performance...So you have two options...do the plug non-fouler thing, which will trick that o2 sensor into thinking a catalyst is in place...in which you mount the 2nd o2 sensor still in the header...or plug the 2nd header bung, and run the 2nd o2 sensor behind the secondary catalyst under the car...both will work well to make the cat code never appear...
 
Does anyone know if I install a header on my p5 will I still pass emissions in ontario? A friend told me they have a new emissions machines so its harder to pass now and I don't want to have to remove the header cuz I failed emissions .
 
DOMO said:
Does anyone know if I install a header on my p5 will I still pass emissions in ontario? A friend told me they have a new emissions machines so its harder to pass now and I don't want to have to remove the header cuz I failed emissions .
Click to expand...
Did your car pass in the past with the header?
I wouldn't go by rumors. A new testing machine is not going to be better unless there's an OBD-III I'm not aware of.
 
I don't have a header now I bought the car in August and I was planning to install one with a full exhaust from header to tip in the near future but I just don't wana be spending money on a header f it's gonna make me fail emissions thts all
 
I happen to have another OBX than the one in the pic above that has has a 3rd bung for a wb02 sensor. I may be swapping that in sometime soon and when done will be selling the OBX in the pic above. I would also be willing to leave the non-foulers in it and that way you just plug your o2 sensors in and no CEL. The egr connection is in right place as can be seen in the pic. I also have another spotless clean never installed non-obx header that has the egr in correct place that I am willing to part with. The one on the car still looks like in the pic, car is parked in garage and not exposed to weather. I have no need for 3 so 2 will be up for sale sooner or later. Anyone interested can PM for pics of the non-obx...would be looking for 85 plus shipping ups with tracking to lower 48 only................
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
I happen to have another OBX than the one in the pic above that has has a 3rd bung for a wb02 sensor. I may be swapping that in sometime soon and when done will be selling the OBX in the pic above. I would also be willing to leave the non-foulers in it and that way you just plug your o2 sensors in and no CEL. The egr connection is in right place as can be seen in the pic. I also have another spotless clean never installed non-obx header that has the egr in correct place that I am willing to part with. The one on the car still looks like in the pic, car is parked in garage and not exposed to weather. I have no need for 3 so 2 will be up for sale sooner or later. Anyone interested can PM for pics of the non-obx...would be looking for 85 plus shipping ups with tracking to lower 48 only................
Click to expand...

i12, I am interest in buying your new obx header. Please let me know if you willing to sell it. I have pm you already but i didn't know does it sent it through to your message box
 
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