So today I'm just getting the oil service/inspection and then car wash. I'll do the plugs myself. They don't even touch transmissions here since they consider them sealed and lifetime. Not worth the risk the service manager says. I've come to know this guy over time. So that would have to be done elsewhere. Although other Mazda dealerships will do that he said.
Here's the pricing we're looking at for a few other items on the list: (prices are pre-tax)
-radiator flush with cleaner $149
-front transfer case $139
-rear differential $113 (can wait, first time was done at 64k miles)
-Mazda recommending brake fluid flush $140 (they say pads are at 6mm and due at 3mm, seems the flush be done rather than wait for brakes, their recommendation)
-I'm not going to have them do the fuel injection cleaning service. I've seen that Chevron Techron injector cleaner at Costco in the past. Not sure if they still have it. Does it matter whether to do this service before or after spark plug change?
They do have down as needing attention (photos available). They suggest doing the following within the next 5k to 10k mi:
-front outer tie rods (Front outer tie rods beginning to crack/rip and leak recommend replacing once worse - No action needed this visit). $375. Inc tax.
-front lower control arms (Front lower control arm balls joints beginning to leak and crack/rip recommend replacing once worse - No action needed this visit). $1028. Inc tax.
-alignment after above work $119, before tax
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-belt tensioner -> looks fine, no issues, clean
-VVT solenoid oil control valve-> looks good. Dry, no leaks.
I've mentioned this somewhere in earlier posts, but I'll chime in here and stir the pot a little.
Addressing some of your points mentioned it goes as follows:
>Regarding coolant flush, I decided to change (2X drain and fill) at about 43,000 +/- miles as I feel 10 years is too long for first changeout per Mazda. "Flush" what is there to flush out? The factory coolant looked pristine and no sediment in the drain pan. Done at same time as 2X drain and fill of transmission fluid.
> @ ~ 60,000 miles-- lower control arms and tie rod ends changed because of torn control arm bushings and all boots dried and split leaking grease. There was NO wear evident (looseness) yet but decided to get all done as a 'mid-life refresh' and these parts still had 60k wear. The control arms and their mounting bolts (all OEM Mazda - new bolts alone were ~$50) plus~40 shipping. Also new tie rod ends ,quality Japanese aftermarket because Mazda not available, were about $22 each. Parts total came to about $500 . Labor and alignment ($130 + 70) another $200. Since replacing control arms or tie rod ends both require an alignment, might as well get it all done with one alignment.
> right after this I had my mechanic install new front stabilizer bar bushings. cost ~ $20 parts and $80 labor. I tried first, no way in hell, it went for him to do LOL. They made a small improvement in further tightening things up and importantly are DONE.
> About 3 weeks after having this done, I got new tires( Pirelli Scorpion AS+3, there's a thread or 2 on these) for ~600. Already had a fresh alignment so no additional expense there.
>The philosophy here was to get all new parts (I did stabilizer bar end links about 6 months prior to all of this work, so good there) to render a tight front end with good ride and handling and nothing required for a long time. And that is what I got!! Now, I've been down the "replace 'this part' and a little later replace 'that part' because it is now worn out" type of scenario in the past and it "don't fly no more". Especially if $50 worth of parts cost $100 alignment and could have been done before.
>In summary, total cost of parts, labor ,alignment and new tires --- about $1500+/-.
I find your quotes for tie rod end and control arm replacement rather atrocious and they don't even include the necessary alignment, that's quoted extra. And another very important thing-- are these OEM Mazda parts or some questionable aftermarket parts that may fail early and that they have marked up the price hugely.
I, personally, think you can do better.
Almost forgot to add-- I purchased the parts and gave them to my mechanic to install (not all mechanics will) and he is cool with that. But ,as is custom, he can't offer a parts warranty because he didn't supply them and I expected that going in.
Well, that's my curmudgeonly view on things. Good luck.