2013~2016: CX-5 Services/maintenance required?
- Thread starter SBMongoos
- Start date
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- 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
They did match and set for local pickup. They did ping me with the Rock Auto shipping charge but still well worth it. $48.83 total.
Don't know if they're value or not. Part# on invoice is PY8V-18-110.
Labor was $39.00
Maybe somebody on here knows.
With the iridium plugs, NGK warns against doing any "gapping" of the things. Just use as-is, since they should already come set with the 0.044" gap.
Part Finder - NGK Spark Plugs
Search by application to find the part you need from NGK or NTK
ngksparkplugs.com
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- Plano, Texas, USA
For ATF and gear lube changes, if you prefer not to DIY, try to find a good indy shop familiar with Mazda to do them for you. Yoh can buy correct OEM fluids ATF FZ (~14 quarts for 3X D&F including a pan drop for filter change) and gear oil SG1 (~1.2 quart F&R). And:
ATF...Change or not?
Make sure to have a 14 mm thin-wall spark plug socket and a ⅜“ torque wrench (even a cheap one from Harbor Freight Tools) capable of the spark plug torque spec 12~14 ft/lbf.
And don’t use anti-seize compound on spark plugs.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
They’re “pre-gapped” but I usually would verify the gap with the spark plug wire gap tool. Be careful not to damage the tip.
New spark plug (reference): 1.05—1.15 mm {0.0414—0.0452 in}.
I’d also measure the resistance on these NGK plugs making sure they’re within 3.0 ~ 7.5 KΩ range.
CX-5 NGK spark plugs 14mm or 9/16 and torque?
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- Plano, Texas, USA
You should have got “normal” Mazda OEM spark plugs for the 2.5T. Part no. PY8V-18-110-MV is the “Value” plug for the 2.5T. $39 on dealer labor that‘s only ¼ hour! You got yourself an honest Mazda dealer!
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- Denver, CO
Good call replacing the plugs yourself. You'll want a metric spark plug socket and you will need an extension to reach the plugs.
good call on the NGK's. I wasted $100 on the Mazda plugs and they were just Mazda branded NGKs.
Aside from spark plugs, have you ever drained/filled transmission fluid?
Also I agree with @yrwei52 - check your belt tensioner for leaks.
good call on the NGK's. I wasted $100 on the Mazda plugs and they were just Mazda branded NGKs.
Aside from spark plugs, have you ever drained/filled transmission fluid?
Also I agree with @yrwei52 - check your belt tensioner for leaks.
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- 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
Anti-seize, the guy at Adv Auto Parts asked me my make/model before heading out the door then gave me a little packet of anti-seize compound.
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- 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
I bought 4 x NGK 94124. Wrong?
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- 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
No, I have not. Plus I don't have any decent setup around home to do this.
Leaks? Is this on a belt or tensioner itself? Where to look exactly?
Thanks!
Don't use anti seize. NGK does not recommend it.
5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs
The five things you should know about spark plugs include information on anti-seize, corona stain, gapping fine wire, torque and copper spark plugs.
ngksparkplugs.com
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- Plano, Texas, USA
@wlong01 was talking about the 2.5T which uses different plug OEM PY8V-18-110.
OEM PE5R-18-110A, and NGK ILKAR7L11 / 94124 iridium spark plug is for your 2.5L NA.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
The belt tensioner is on the serpentine belt near the alternator at the right (passenger) side of the engine. It would look wet like mine here:
The VVT solenoid oil control valve is located on top of the engine also on the right side, under the plastic cover. If it leaks, it’d look like this:
2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?
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- 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
So today I'm just getting the oil service/inspection and then car wash. I'll do the plugs myself. They don't even touch transmissions here since they consider them sealed and lifetime. Not worth the risk the service manager says. I've come to know this guy over time. So that would have to be done elsewhere. Although other Mazda dealerships will do that he said.
Here's the pricing we're looking at for a few other items on the list: (prices are pre-tax)
-radiator flush with cleaner $149
-front transfer case $139
-rear differential $113 (can wait, first time was done at 64k miles)
-Mazda recommending brake fluid flush $140 (they say pads are at 6mm and due at 3mm, seems the flush be done rather than wait for brakes, their recommendation)
-I'm not going to have them do the fuel injection cleaning service. I've seen that Chevron Techron injector cleaner at Costco in the past. Not sure if they still have it. Does it matter whether to do this service before or after spark plug change?
They do have down as needing attention (photos available). They suggest doing the following within the next 5k to 10k mi:
-front outer tie rods (Front outer tie rods beginning to crack/rip and leak recommend replacing once worse - No action needed this visit). $375. Inc tax.
-front lower control arms (Front lower control arm balls joints beginning to leak and crack/rip recommend replacing once worse - No action needed this visit). $1028. Inc tax.
-alignment after above work $119, before tax
****
-belt tensioner -> looks fine, no issues, clean
-VVT solenoid oil control valve-> looks good. Dry, no leaks.
Here's the pricing we're looking at for a few other items on the list: (prices are pre-tax)
-radiator flush with cleaner $149
-front transfer case $139
-rear differential $113 (can wait, first time was done at 64k miles)
-Mazda recommending brake fluid flush $140 (they say pads are at 6mm and due at 3mm, seems the flush be done rather than wait for brakes, their recommendation)
-I'm not going to have them do the fuel injection cleaning service. I've seen that Chevron Techron injector cleaner at Costco in the past. Not sure if they still have it. Does it matter whether to do this service before or after spark plug change?
They do have down as needing attention (photos available). They suggest doing the following within the next 5k to 10k mi:
-front outer tie rods (Front outer tie rods beginning to crack/rip and leak recommend replacing once worse - No action needed this visit). $375. Inc tax.
-front lower control arms (Front lower control arm balls joints beginning to leak and crack/rip recommend replacing once worse - No action needed this visit). $1028. Inc tax.
-alignment after above work $119, before tax
****
-belt tensioner -> looks fine, no issues, clean
-VVT solenoid oil control valve-> looks good. Dry, no leaks.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
IMO $149 for radiator flush “with cleaner”(?) from a Mazda dealer seems to be reasonable. Make sure they use FL-22 coolant. But the first coolant change is scheduled at 120K miles / 10 years, and 60K miles / 5 years for subsequent coolant change. At 74k miles and 7 years on your 2016.5 CX-5 this service is too early for you.
Front transfer case $139 and rear differential $113 are pretty high IMO. You can buy 2 bottles of Mazda SG-1 gear oil (<$50?) and find a good repair shop to do both for less than 30 minutes.
You need to find some Mazda dealer (like my Mazda dealer) or good repair shop to do the ATF drain-and-fill for you.
Check those Mazda dealers’ website and see if there’re service discount coupons for your needs.
Yes you can get a box of Chevron Techron injector cleaner at Costco. Follow the instruction and do it at your next fuel stop. Use Top-Tier gas like Costco and it doesn’t matter you do this before or after the spark plug change.
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- 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
Thank you for your feedback. I appreciate it! What are your thoughts on the control arms and tire rods?
So the coolant change is too soon then.hmm
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Control arms and tie rods? Unless you have obvious problems such as torn boots or clunking noise, I doubt you need to do anything on them at 74K miles.
Here’s the maintenance schedule from the owner’s manual of you 2016.5 CX-5:
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Mazda service manager told me they would do the tranny fluid drain/fill if the vehicle was out of Powertrain warranty. I think I will find an Indy shop to do the tranny fluid.
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
You didn't state how many miles are on your CX, more than 64k it seems?
What kind of driving do you do? Why are the front-end suspension components in such bad (according to the dealer) shape? I have the same MY CX that you do, although with considerably less miles than yours, and I don't have any of the issues that your dealer says that you have. All the front-end components on mine look perfect. Have you seen the damage the dealer mentioned with your own eyes?
Color me skeptical.
