CX-5 Owners with big bass setups? Power Qs

[floridaplur]

2018 CX-5 Non-Bose

So I've recently installed 2 12" Skars and a 1200w amp (1200RMS, 1600peak). I am on stock electrical. Everything is running great right now, but I'm sure it's putting stress on the stock electrical. I also plan to add a 4 channel amp and better door speakers in the very near future, and likely 2 more 12's and up the amp to a 3500w rms.

I'm not finding much info online, and search here didn't bring up much. I have read here that doing a mechman HO alternator will throw a check engine light. Not sure if adding in a second battery would over stress the stock 100A alternator? Considering Lithium, but also concerned about more stress on the stock electrical with that. Big 3 upgrade is happening this week.

I'm curious what you guys are doing as far as power? I'm open to suggestions. at 1200W I'm not super concerned, but a lot more concerned for when I jump to 3500w+.

 

[theblooms]

This guy's channel will tell you everything you need to know about lithium batteries. Using his help, I built my own small 8 cell bank from Headway 38120 HP cells.

Walkthrough on Car Audio Lithium Batteries , Yinlong , Headway

Walkthrough on Car Audio Lithium Batteries , Yinlong 66160 cells LTO ''Lithium Titanate'' , headway 38120 HP LiFePo4 , new ways to build your own DIY batter...

www.youtube.com

 

[floridaplur]

Building lithium would be very cost effective to me, I run a chain of smoke/vape shops and have wholesale accounts for lithium cells (we use them in our vape devices as well).

 

[frotasticben]

@floridaplur I just upgraded my setup on my 17' Sport. I did The Big 3, ran new power and ground, and installed KnuKoncepts Ultimate Battery Terminals. I went ahead and just did everything 0/1 AWG wire. I haven't noticed much of a strain yet, I do have a 4 Farad Capacitor on my system already, planning on adding a 2nd battery. Like you I'm planning on doing a 4 channel amp and upgrading my speakers as well. Currently running a Skar 1200.1RP amp and one 10" DDX-2 subwoofer at 1 Ohm. From what I've read and heard from my Service Tech at Mazda, the ECU is hard coded to pretty much give you the finger if you put a High Output Alternator in. Apparently it regulates the output HARD. I've read about running a 2nd alternator that isn't connected to the ECU, so, that may be an option as well.

Sorry for the long post, hopefully there was some useful information.

 

[floridaplur]

@floridaplur I just upgraded my setup on my 17' Sport. I did The Big 3, ran new power and ground, and installed KnuKoncepts Ultimate Battery Terminals. I went ahead and just did everything 0/1 AWG wire. I haven't noticed much of a strain yet, I do have a 4 Farad Capacitor on my system already, planning on adding a 2nd battery. Like you I'm planning on doing a 4 channel amp and upgrading my speakers as well. Currently running a Skar 1200.1RP amp and one 10" DDX-2 subwoofer at 1 Ohm. From what I've read and heard from my Service Tech at Mazda, the ECU is hard coded to pretty much give you the finger if you put a High Output Alternator in. Apparently it regulates the output HARD. I've read about running a 2nd alternator that isn't connected to the ECU, so, that may be an option as well.

Sorry for the long post, hopefully there was some useful information.

View attachment 307051View attachment 307050

Keep me updated on how things go. I’m running the same 1200.1D and no headlight dimming (stock LEDs), but I do notice some dimming on the interior lights when parked (aftermarket LEDs). Just ordered some new door speakers which I’ll try first on factory power and see how they do, as the stock door speakers are being drowned out by the subs.

 

[frotasticben]

@floridaplur will do, I had some dimming on my interior lights before but its not really noticeable anymore ever since I did The Big 3 upgrade.

 

[floridaplur]

I’ve also talked to a few very reputable car audiophiles in the area, and they warned me not to run a capacitor, as it puts more strain on the alternator than it saves you in voltage drop.

 

[frotasticben]

I’ve also talked to a few very reputable car audiophiles in the area, and they warned me not to run a capacitor, as it puts more strain on the alternator than it saves you in voltage drop.

I know people that swear by them and others that call them a gimmick. I use one because a fellow car audio enthusiast of mine has been using his for years and he's my go to guy for anything related to the subject.

 

[theblooms]

While real caps have been proven to beneficial, the whole capacitor hate is still founded in reality, because the fake Chinesium caps really are truly garbage, and do absolutely NOTHING, and may even hurt. They are literally filled with concrete to make them seem legit. Watch this:

Bullz/Audio Cap Capacitor False 4.4 farad, cut open it is actually .2 farad. It's a Fake!!!

Cut open a bullz audio 4.4 cap capacitor to find out it's a complete fake! It has 20 10,000 caps inside with a big piece of concrete in the bottom to make i...

www.youtube.com

 

[theblooms]

But when talking about real caps, Tony D'Amore, formerly the lead engineer for Rockford Fosgate, did a couple of videos showing that caps are indeed beneficial.

SMD / D'Amore Engineering AD-1 Amp Dyno, Capacitor Testing Part 1 (Continuous Sine)

All tests in this video were made using the Uncertified Dyno Mode which is a continuous sine wave. We test a Rockford T2500-1bdcp in car, with no added capac...

www.youtube.com

SMD / D'Amore Engineering AD-1 Amp Dyno, Capacitor Testing Part 2 (Dynamic Burst)

Same intro as Part 1, but dyno runs clips are changed to the dynamic power test clipsAll tests in this video were made using the Dynamic Power (Burst) Dyno m...

www.youtube.com

 

[CX-5um]

@floridaplur I just upgraded my setup on my 17' Sport. I did The Big 3, ran new power and ground, and installed KnuKoncepts Ultimate Battery Terminals. I went ahead and just did everything 0/1 AWG wire. I haven't noticed much of a strain yet, I do have a 4 Farad Capacitor on my system already, planning on adding a 2nd battery. Like you I'm planning on doing a 4 channel amp and upgrading my speakers as well. Currently running a Skar 1200.1RP amp and one 10" DDX-2 subwoofer at 1 Ohm. From what I've read and heard from my Service Tech at Mazda, the ECU is hard coded to pretty much give you the finger if you put a High Output Alternator in. Apparently it regulates the output HARD. I've read about running a 2nd alternator that isn't connected to the ECU, so, that may be an option as well.

Sorry for the long post, hopefully there was some useful information.

View attachment 307051View attachment 307050

Can you post pics of where/what you accessed for the Big 3? I plan on getting 5-point grounding kit myself.

 

[floridaplur]

I’m also curious to see his work. I plan on doing it, but open to seeing how others have done it to see if it looks cleaner than my plan.

 

[floridaplur]

Just a little update to my progress

 

[frotasticben]

Can you post pics of where/what you accessed for the Big 3? I plan on getting 5-point grounding kit myself.

well, the majority of it is hidden, I honestly ran everything where the stock wires were. The Alternator wire goes to a fuse then under the air box to the battery, Ground wires are in the exact same place as stock. I put about 600 bucks into my sound system this time around between as far as Wire, Subwoofer, Amp and miscellaneous parts. So, I wanted to try to do the cleanest install I could.

 

[floridaplur]

@floridaplur I just upgraded my setup on my 17' Sport. I did The Big 3, ran new power and ground, and installed KnuKoncepts Ultimate Battery Terminals. I went ahead and just did everything 0/1 AWG wire. I haven't noticed much of a strain yet, I do have a 4 Farad Capacitor on my system already, planning on adding a 2nd battery. Like you I'm planning on doing a 4 channel amp and upgrading my speakers as well. Currently running a Skar 1200.1RP amp and one 10" DDX-2 subwoofer at 1 Ohm. From what I've read and heard from my Service Tech at Mazda, the ECU is hard coded to pretty much give you the finger if you put a High Output Alternator in. Apparently it regulates the output HARD. I've read about running a 2nd alternator that isn't connected to the ECU, so, that may be an option as well.

Sorry for the long post, hopefully there was some useful information.

View attachment 307051View attachment 307050

Getting ready to tackle the big 4. Do you remember what size ring terminals you used?

 

[frotasticben]

Getting ready to tackle the big 4. Do you remember what size ring terminals you used?

InstallGear 1/0 Gauge AWG Tinned Pure Copper Lugs Ring Terminals Connectors with Heat Shrink - 10-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I would recommend a hydraulic crimper or a hammer crimper, they were a royal pain to crimp.

 

[theblooms]

Hydraulic crimpers are absolutely the way to go. I have both a https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) and a https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned), and while the hydraulic is more of a PITA to use, you get a perfect crimp every time.

Also, when it comes to doing your installation, I want to HIGHLY recommend that you use https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) for making the connections to your amplifier. Much cleaner installation, plus no chance of stray wires arcing over and shorting stuff out. They make ferrules in small sizes for speaker wires, plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) for your power wire.

 

[floridaplur]

Hydraulic crimpers are absolutely the way to go. I have both a https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) and a https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned), and while the hydraulic is more of a PITA to use, you get a perfect crimp every time.

Also, when it comes to doing your installation, I want to HIGHLY recommend that you use https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) for making the connections to your amplifier. Much cleaner installation, plus no chance of stray wires arcing over and shorting stuff out. They make ferrules in small sizes for speaker wires, plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) for your power wire.

The install has actually been done for awhile now. Everything was done correctly and stock electrical actually takes it much better than I expected. Everything is tuned properly, and at its hardest hitting moments I’m dropping to about 12.6V with a standard around 13.2V now. 13.6V with stereo turned down. I’m actually planning to go bigger now, so will be doing the Big 4, as well as a second run of power and ground wire, as well as an AGM under the hood and a small lithium bank in back. Plan is for 2 15”s of this same sub on a Taramps Smart3 (true 3000 rms).

 

[frotasticben]

The install has actually been done for awhile now. Everything was done correctly and stock electrical actually takes it much better than I expected. Everything is tuned properly, and at its hardest hitting moments I’m dropping to about 12.6V with a standard around 13.2V now. 13.6V with stereo turned down. I’m actually planning to go bigger now, so will be doing the Big 4, as well as a second run of power and ground wire, as well as an AGM under the hood and a small lithium bank in back. Plan is for 2 15”s of this same sub on a Taramps Smart3 (true 3000 rms).

I guess you ignored the "Do not mount amplifier to the subwoofer box" sticker.

 

[floridaplur]

I guess you ignored the "Do not mount amplifier to the subwoofer box" sticker.

I’ve been doing it for decades. I may not ignore it on an expensive amp, but a $200 amp I’ll take the risk.