CX-5 Cylinder deactivation

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Does anyone on this forum actually have the 2018 model with cylinder deactivation yet?

All 2018's have it and quite a few forum members have 2018's. If there are any issues with CD, it probably won't show up until 10,000 miles or more.

Per another forum:
I have a 2007 chevy Z71 1500 with 5.3 V8. I was wondering if there was any way to bypass cylinder deactivation to leave engine in 8 cylinder mode. I recently replaced # 7 cylinder lifters due to lifters not getting oil in 4 cylinder mode. I can see this will be an ongoing problem and can not afford $3,500.00 dollar shop bills. Thanks for any help


My cousin had 3 top end rebuilds done before 100k miles on his 07' 5.3. Dealer told him it was all directly related to AFM. Best friend had his 08' sierra burn 1 qt every 1000 miles after he hit 90k... Same story.. Both trucks were commuters with occasional boat towing. Its a bad system I dont know why they keep using it.


https://community.cartalk.com/t/cylinder-deactivation/47900

The potential issue is that some people don't want to take the risk of potential problems with Mazda's CD. There might be ZERO issues with Mazda's system but some people don't want to roll the dice...
 
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And all this talking about it is pretty much pointless as it is coming to the Mazda CX-5, Mazda 6 and more than likely eventually the Mazda 3.

There is nothing anyone can do about it.

(deadhorse

Majority of average consumers/customers will not care and have won't really understand it but will continue to buy it (unless there is a catastrophic issue)
 
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Be good to hear some real world feedback on it. (thumb)

I'll also post some feedback when I get mine although the kms won't be up there as I catch public transport to work

CX-5 is for all other times :)
 
From what I understand, the driver won’t know if it’s on or off. It’s supposed to be seamless.

It would be nice if Mazda’s instrument TFT display actually showed if CD is engaged or operational.

I think Mazda6 I-ELOOP Brake battery regen show some kind of graphic on the MZD display.
 
It would be nice if Mazda’s instrument TFT display actually showed if CD is engaged or operational.

I think Mazda6 I-ELOOP Brake battery regen show some kind of graphic on the MZD display.

(iagree)
 
It would be nice if Mazda’s instrument TFT display actually showed if CD is engaged or operational.

I think Mazda6 I-ELOOP Brake battery regen show some kind of graphic on the MZD display.

Speaking of faulty products. The MAZDA I-ELOOP had a lot of issues. Do they even make it anymore?

You want to convert MPG to gallons per mile (1 / mpg) for both without ieloop and with ieloop. Then put in your estimated $ for gas per gallon (using $2.60 here, but this is the biggest variable here), you can find the break even point in terms of milage given a price for gas.

By being generous and giving ieloop 1 extra mpg even though combined is the same on the specs page, (30 vs 31mpg):

$2/gallon has break even point of 372,000 miles

$2.60/gallon has break even point of 286,000 miles

$3/gallon has break even point of 248,000 miles

$4/gallon has break even point of 184,000 miles

Above assumes that the ieloop system doesn't have any malfunctions or complicates repairs. Any extra spending there will need to be added onto the $800 IELOOP cost and will likely very quickly make it not worth it. You may want to do some research on how frequently the system ends up being an issue itself and whether it ever complicates repairs on any other part of the car.

It's quite a poor ROI for systems like IELOOP and I am pretty confident the system would need repairs by 200,000 miles

Airing ones tires properly can gain 1MPG or more
 
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Don't know where you get this misinformation. Not a faulty product. No issues with mine over the 2.5 years I had it. Still available here and in Europe.
 
All 2018's have it and quite a few forum members have 2018's. If there are any issues with CD, it probably won't show up until 10,000 miles or more.

Per another forum:
I have a 2007 chevy Z71 1500 with 5.3 V8. I was wondering if there was any way to bypass cylinder deactivation to leave engine in 8 cylinder mode. I recently replaced # 7 cylinder lifters due to lifters not getting oil in 4 cylinder mode. I can see this will be an ongoing problem and can not afford $3,500.00 dollar shop bills. Thanks for any help


My cousin had 3 top end rebuilds done before 100k miles on his 07' 5.3. Dealer told him it was all directly related to AFM. Best friend had his 08' sierra burn 1 qt every 1000 miles after he hit 90k... Same story.. Both trucks were commuters with occasional boat towing. Its a bad system I dont know why they keep using it.


https://community.cartalk.com/t/cylinder-deactivation/47900

The potential issue is that some people don't want to take the risk of potential problems with Mazda's CD. There might be ZERO issues with Mazda's system but some people don't want to roll the dice...

On the Chevy, that was 2 generations of engines ago. I worked for them from 2014 until Jan 2018 and never heard any mention of issues with the cylinder deactivation in the Siverados, Tahoes or Suburbans (and those all tend to get driven hard )
 
Everything has problems doesn't mean they are faulty

So much depends on how the owner has maintained and driven the vehicle. Some things are assumed to be okay. Ex: a person I knew with a rav 4 drove through deep water during a flood event but never thought to change the diff fluids. A year or so later her awd system choked and the repair was costly. She blamed Toyota but knowing about the drive through the water, I suspected otherwise.
 
There may have been some problems with i-Eloop, but as far as I'm aware there's nothing fundamentally flawed or challenging about the technology.

A better question is whether the gains are worth the extra weight, complexity, and expense. I'm a little put off by the use of a costly deep cycle lead-acid battery.
 
There may have been some problems with i-Eloop, but as far as I'm aware there's nothing fundamentally flawed or challenging about the technology.

A better question is whether the gains are worth the extra weight, complexity, and expense. I'm a little put off by the use of a costly deep cycle lead-acid battery.

Once every 3-5 year battery change from what i have read
 
So much depends on how the owner has maintained and driven the vehicle. Some things are assumed to be okay. Ex: a person I knew with a rav 4 drove through deep water during a flood event but never thought to change the diff fluids. A year or so later her awd system choked and the repair was costly. She blamed Toyota but knowing about the drive through the water, I suspected otherwise.

That happened to a dude here on his cx-5 too.
 
That happened to a dude here on his cx-5 too.

Not all that long ago I saw a Ford commercial for their 4x4 pickup with the EcoBoost engine. This was somewhere else in the world so I don’t know if it played here in the US. The pickup was fording a river with water halfway up the grill. Impressive looking but I always wonder how that turbo reacted to the water coming into the intake? I’ve done 6-8” on similar 4x4 trucks and SUVs but this was extreme to say the least. Deep water can wreak havoc on any vehicle.
 
I am on the fence with buying a new CX-5. My question is can the cylinder deactivation be turned off or disabled? If the dealers start having issues can THEY disable it? I know that with my old Ram pickup you could do it with a tuner like Superchips
 
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