Crossover question.
- Thread starter Brahma12
- Start date
It depends on what the slope of the crossover is ,I believe Cadance uses a 12DB /OCtave slope on their xovers ,that is if you have your xover set at 80hz one octave higher(160hz) will be will be 12db lower in volume . In answer to your question ,yes the subs will pay if you use a 90-120 hz test tone although at a reduced volume .
On a side note try setting the xover for your fronts to 120hz and reduce the bass on your head unit by a couple of steps . this should help clean up the midbass ,our cars have a peak enhancement in this range .
On a side note try setting the xover for your fronts to 120hz and reduce the bass on your head unit by a couple of steps . this should help clean up the midbass ,our cars have a peak enhancement in this range .
nate0123 said:the JL has switchable 12db / 24db
gotta love all the fine-tuning you can do with a JL amp
why not save your money by purchasing a less expensive amp that puts out the same power and get something that gives you real tuning, like audio control products? (braindead
not to mention, nearly the same wattage no matter how you configure your subs 1.5 - 4 ohmsservoeyes said:2 swords...damping factor. JL has >500...pretty sick if you ask me. Sooo much control of the sub. Makes for a very clean signal...plus, JLs still pound when you need them to. At least...that's been my experience...but I'm not one to flex my quarter panels.
servoeyes said:2 swords...damping factor. JL has >500...pretty sick if you ask me. Sooo much control of the sub. Makes for a very clean signal...plus, JLs still pound when you need them to. At least...that's been my experience...but I'm not one to flex my quarter panels.
from 250-500 you won't notice a difference in control over the sub
it's when you drop down to like 100 that you notice a difference (blah) and if it's that important, get a US amp with over 2500 dampening factor (smoke)sndsgood said:
the other thing i was thinking about for them, is what about when you compete? i know they are changing the rules around this year and what not, but if the amp is rated at 4 ohms and 12 volts, and it does just a little more than that at say 1 ohm, it would suck ass. take the great cheater amps that do a couple hundred watts at 4 ohms, 12 volts, and will put out well over 1,000 at 1 ohm and higher voltage
got wake? said:the other thing i was thinking about for them, is what about when you compete? i know they are changing the rules around this year and what not, but if the amp is rated at 4 ohms and 12 volts, and it does just a little more than that at say 1 ohm, it would suck ass. take the great cheater amps that do a couple hundred watts at 4 ohms, 12 volts, and will put out well over 1,000 at 1 ohm and higher voltage
Good point. but I dont compete. I just like to listen to nice music. I want it to look nice when I show someone. be reliable. that kind of stuff.
parks853 said:
and i like to save money and have more power (smoke)
i'm looking into getting the PHD3. with simple mods it will run up to 18 volts, and crank out over 6k watts
got wake? said:and i like to save money and have more power (smoke)
i'm looking into getting the PHD3. with simple mods it will run up to 18 volts, and crank out over 6k watts
save money. that thing is 1500. that is sick. but I guess you need alot of power for that damn monster in yoru trunk. have you heard teh saying.. " sounds like to midgets wrestling in the trunk" well you are going to sound liek the midgets are having wrestel mania back there.. heeh.. good luck.. maybe when I get out of school.. I will get a chance to catch up with soem of you guys and hear some s***.. maybe even that beast of yours.
parks853 said:
actually i can get that amp brand new for under $900, and off e-bay for around $600
if i'm going to pay over $1500, i'll get the PHD4 that's 6k watts rms for $2k online, retail of $2800 (omg) i might be selling the 18. i've got a couple people interested in it, and i can sell it for double what i paid for it
