CPE EMS Problem???

Finkle

Member
Alrite the install was a pain in the ass but worth it. i will have some pics up soon.
So i havent had a chance to tune the car yet, looking for a dyno shop that wants less than 200/hr. But running the car on the bas map at 15psi it feels really good, havent had the chance to see what the higher rpm are really doin( well havent driven it hard yet). She runs pretty good, now heres where im getting a problem, when i switch over to 17psi

I was on the hi-way, at about 4500rpm and noticed my boost gauge drop and the car had a little hesitation to it so i backed off. I thought it was just me so i tried again, but this time i tried a sweep at wide open throttle in 4th gear from about 2000rpm to about 4500, now when i hit 4500 this time, my car had a nasty backfire????wtf is up with that (nailbyt) at this time i also happened to look down at my dash and noticed that the light with the car and swiggly lines was flashing ( my traction lite) why and how?

I havent even taken it that high again with 17psi; 15psi seems okay but imma re-check everything before i try anything again

Now the second problem im having, my car is requiring me to crank a bit longer now, if i crank it my old normal time the car will stutter as it starts, what might this be?
i guess imma start by checkin every single connection all over again and meter it again, or is this my tune?
 
Alrite the install was a pain in the ass but worth it. i will have some pics up soon.
So i havent had a chance to tune the car yet, looking for a dyno shop that wants less than 200/hr. But running the car on the bas map at 15psi it feels really good, havent had the chance to see what the higher rpm are really doin( well havent driven it hard yet). She runs pretty good, now heres where im getting a problem, when i switch over to 17psi

I was on the hi-way, at about 4500rpm and noticed my boost gauge drop and the car had a little hesitation to it so i backed off. I thought it was just me so i tried again, but this time i tried a sweep at wide open throttle in 4th gear from about 2000rpm to about 4500, now when i hit 4500 this time, my car had a nasty backfire????wtf is up with that (nailbyt) at this time i also happened to look down at my dash and noticed that the light with the car and swiggly lines was flashing ( my traction lite) why and how?

I havent even taken it that high again with 17psi; 15psi seems okay but imma re-check everything before i try anything again

Now the second problem im having, my car is requiring me to crank a bit longer now, if i crank it my old normal time the car will stutter as it starts, what might this be?
i guess imma start by checkin every single connection all over again and meter it again, or is this my tune?

u cant just start raising the boost up ,the car is running lean, do urself a favor and take the cpe off till you have the money to tune it, the base tune is just that. a base tune. is its tune to that 15psi, and the problem is the car is getting a lot efficient due to colder weather.
 
Yes you can run 17 with no problem. the car is not running to lean Ade, we run rich as hell stock anyway. As for the problem starting the car, yes you have to pause on the on position due to the fact that the unit has to do atleast one loop before you crank. Remember that you have installed and aftermarket part that is being powered by the stock battery. Therefore the has to be powered and looped at least once in order to send all the signals to crank the car.

As for the stuttering @ 17 psi. I don't really know what that is. I have no problems dogging this beast of mine @ 17 psi all the way close to red line. That could be fuel cut but then who knows. Or you could have tapped into a wrong wire.

No CEL's yet? Did you run the bypass valve before you actually ran with the unit?
 
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My turbo seals may be gone, i heard a rumor that the oil could be causing my car to detonate
Ill put my wideband in 2morrow hopefully and see what shes running at, for the time being ill put the bypass plug in
thx
 
Its not the seals trust me. That has nothing to do with it. Check your wiring and and double check. Disconnect the negative battery cable and plug the bypass on and run with that for a day or two. If you have any more questions please feel free to post or pm me.

Finkle read my last as I edited it.
 
yea imma double check all my wiring and go form there
one question i have when metering the wires is the list pin 20 as black/brown stripe, well pin20 is purple and i cant find tthis black n brown wire, is that a typo in the instructions or am i dumb, it says it should metere at .2volts, mine meters at .3
imma check that wire and pin 11 the green its metering at .31 when it should be about .2
those may be my problems right there

How would i be hitting fuel cut?
 
You should have 2 wires crimped off that you are not using at this time. Is this correct? The black and brown and black and red I believe???
 
Then I have a feeling you are looking at the cp-e connector backwards??? I can only check for you when I get home. I should be home in couple of hours as my instruction are at home.
 
No, im reading it right off the instructions, in the section where it tells u to check the volts of the wires
For some reason in this section they say pin 20 is black brown with and expection of about .2 volts
but pin 20 is purple, when u actually install the wires it says pin 20 purple, tap into wire 2BA

i hate being stumped, damn sema show, i cant even talk to anyone at cpe
 
Yup i soldered all my connections, imma have to rechekc them all to see if thats the problems, maybe something wasnt done right....just gotta wait for the boss to leave then i can pull my car into the bay and rip it apart and go from there
 
Yeah you probably have a wiring issue and you also really need to get it tuned. My shop tuned my car at 19psi and it runs beautifully without a single problem. He did nearly 30 pulls to get this map running smooth and safely but it pulls like mad now(dance). The tuning can be expensive if you don't know anyone personally but its well worth it regardless. Not only will you make more power but you will also be doing this safely. Good luck!
 
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no offense, but no one has any business street tuning a fuel map on any engine management system without a wideband to measure your air/fuel ratio. a base map, regardless of how good it is, regardless of what EMS you use, is just a base map. every region, every altitude, every climate is going to require fine tuning period to get optimum results. tuning or installing an EMS without a wideband is akin to installing a boost controller without having a boost gauge.
 
yea my wideband is coming in tonite and should be in 2morrow
To anyone who wants to kno here are my volt measurments
Pin # Wire Colour Expected Measurment Measument
1 gray 10-14 volts 11.93
5 white/black stripe .61/.80 volts .61
6 white/brown stripe 0.5-4 volts 2.11
8 orange apprx .2 volts .3
now the problem im having with this wire pin 8
sometimes it will read about 4.9 volts and then sometimes it will read .3, ive checked the connection several times, nothin wrong at all
10 red 10-14.5 volts 12.3
11 green apprx .2 volts .3
same problem with this one pin11, it goes to 4.9 when pin8 is not reading right
but when one is reading right they both are
13 white 1.1 volts .96
14 yellow 1.87 1.91
15 red/white stripe .61 .62
16 blue 1.87 1.91
17 orange/red stripe .5-4volts 1.91
20 black/brown stripe .2 .32
pin 20 is purple tho typo in the instructions?????

what u guys think that HAVE an cp-e ems
 
So, it's not fuel cut caused by running the catless DP at 17 PSI? I thought there were a number of people having this problem already.
 
Really, i never knew ppl were experiencing fuel cut cuz of the downpipe....i guess imma have to suck it up till i get my wideband in. then hopefully sopmeone at cp-e will be back lol, hopefully they are enjoying sema
 
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